engine and drivetrain New Engine!... Smokes...

[Hans]

Hmmm. I looking at Haynes  and the notch on middle ring faces down.

[Parkertii]

Yeah rookie mistake. I need to flip the ring for sure, can this be done in the car? Wouldn't I have to pull the engine?

[Hans]

You need to pull the head and pan, oil pump. Best to have a helper.  Get motor to TDC to start. Then wiggle the two low rod caps off - CAREFULLY- and put some plastic tubing over the rod bolts and gently tap off the crank and then up the bore. Helper should catch the piston as it pops out. Re-install, rotate to get other two down (feed timing chain by hand) and repeat. Helper  goes underneath to guide the two plastic tubes over the crank journal while you tap down the spring compressor. Just observe usual procedures for piston install.

[M3M3]

Sure seems like it would be easier to just pull the engine and do this on engine stand......

[jgerock]

Sure seems like it would be easier to just pull the engine and do this on engine stand......

+1.  I did this once before - never again.

[mikebontoft]

At least it's easy to do maybe an hour and a half to have it on a stand?

Good work on taking pictures. Sucks, but you'll be much more intimate with your engine this time.

Also my whole point to the brake fluid smoke thing is that an engine rebuild and smoking was mentioned, and I did not see anything internal-engine related in the "broad range of suggested issues" mentioned earlier. Maybe I missed it though. But it doesn't matter. Don't go chasing waterfalls...

Enjoy your mistake. We all do it and at least the second or third time around we know it's done right.

Edited December 29, 2013 by mikebontoft

[Hans]

If you have the equipment to pull engine, maybe. But that means disconnecting everything, pulling rad, and then having the pleasure of getting the engine to re-mate with trans. Yes, easier to do on an engine stand, but you still need a helper to assist with piston birthing.

A hoist would be nice to get the head off. I admit I've not done this with the engine in situ, but the only challenge I can see is keeping the rod away from the journal and cyl wall because its on an angle.

 

Jgerock - why did you need 2x4?

[Guest_anonymous]

I. I admit I've not done this with the engine in situ,

Try it...You may like it......

NOT

[Parkertii]

im going to go ahead and pull the engine. as far as taking out the radiator, i would have to drain it anyways to take off the cylinder head so i might as well take it out. Mating the transmission isnt hard to do and i dont want to have to deal with working on the engine in a dirty environment.

Is that 2x4 supporting the block to lift it up slightly while you work on the bottom of the block?

[FB73tii]

I would find the ring installation instructions and triple-check ring orientation, but it does appear the second ring is flipped. Here's the install instructions for my Total Seal rings, the outer bevel goes down in the "reverse torsional taper face" second rings I used.

 

 

2x4 indicates engine lifted for clearance to remove oil pan, and/or sub-frame dropped to achieve same.

 

I'd likely pull the engine as well, but I do it often enough with the track cars that I am used to it. That way you don't need a helper when removing/installing the pistons. At least your issue is not catastrophic, my lack of valve-piston clearance on my first race engine build was.

 

--Fred

Edited December 29, 2013 by FB73tii

[Guest_anonymous]

There is no way to remove the pan to clear the oil pump without raising the engine off the mounts to provide clearance from the front subframe....Unless of coarse you have an A frame with a chain hoist.

 

 

[FB73tii]

There is no way to remove the pan to clear the oil pump without raising the engine off the mounts to provide clearance from the front subframe....Unless of coarse you have an A frame with a chain hoist.

And it's even more difficult if you have a baffled oil pan (I do). What I do is unbolt the pan, then reach in and unbolt the oil pump and the rear oil pump support bolt and pull the pan and pump out together. I might raise the engine and/or drop the subframe a tad, I forget right now.

[Hans]

Guess I was thinking of Bavaria where you turn crank to certain spot, swing pan out. So yes, if you've gone that far, keep on going I suppose. Just be careful tapping out piston - you need to guide the rod end thru the bore while not dropping the whole assembly on the floor.

Edited December 29, 2013 by Hans

[M3M3]

im going to go ahead and pull the engine. as far as taking out the radiator, i would have to drain it anyways to take off the cylinder head so i might as well take it out. Mating the transmission isnt hard to do and i dont want to have to deal with working on the engine in a dirty environment.

Is that 2x4 supporting the block to lift it up slightly while you work on the bottom of the block?

good call.  you just did this so you know the drill.  it is easy to pull the engine on these cars and it makes it so much nicer to take apart and put back together when engine is out of the car.

[jgerock]

Hans - that is a hefty piece of wood I took from work that was used on a shipping skid (I still have it).  I pulled the cylinder head for machining, removed the pistons/rods and rod bearings for bore honing.  I replaced the oil pump, rod bearings, rings and all the intake/exhaust gaskets (while the KF pump was being rebuilt).  Now that I know someone who has an engine hoist, that is the last time I do the work in the car.  My tii still has the battery tray (and A/C) so I couldn't lift it high enough to get the oil pan to clear. Rear trans mount was also unbolted.

 

This did not work.  I had to unbolt the oil pump, partially install the oil pan, then install the oil pump. Royal pain for my first encounter with an M10 engine.  The 1600 repair manual illustrates turning the oil pan 90 degrees to remove it - that did not work on my car.