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Tii Throttle Body Replacement


RED1602

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Carl, ha! Beat you by 2 minutes!

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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I took the car for smog test last year in July like I have been doing for years and she would pass by a little adjustment to the air or the fuel mixture. But last year no matter what it would not pass.

It idles only around 2000 RPM even after it worms up anything less than that and the car dies.

I drive the car and when I get to a light I have to manage the throttle so it won't die.

I blip the throttle idle goes up and then down and the car dies.

While running if you touch the eccentric cam thing in the tuna can the idle goes up and down and the car dies.

The Mechanic said that it seams that the shaft that opens and closes the throttle body butterfly is worn out and that is why it won't idle below the 2000 RPM. (car was hooked up to an analyzer the whole time

I found a good used TB on line so I thought I start  by replacing that. 

Edited by RED1602
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As a previous poster said, if the bushing for the throttle body shaft is worn out, it can allow extra air to enter the engine, which will make it run lean, which could account for your symptoms. One way to check for vacuum leaks is to spray something like starting fluid or carb cleaner around the engine and see if the idle smooths out. This is more difficult in practice than it sounds, since a) I found that you have to extend the intake away from the engine with a big fat hose (I use a Porsche air duct which is exactly the right size) because otherwise, stuff sprayed around the engine finds its way in through the TB and you haven't actually found an intake leak, and B) the effect of finding an intake leak often isn't as dramatic on the RPM as you'd think. I do this with an exhaust gas analyzer, and, as I said, extending the intake to the TB. You can also try it by taking an 18" or so length of hose about the diameter of a garden hose, putting it to your ear, and moving it around to listen for intake leaks.

 

Search "tii intake leak" and you'll find common sources, including:

 

--Dipstick

 

--Intake gaskets 

 

--On a '74 you have metal plenums, they're tighter and less leak-prone than the early plastic ones 

 

--Cold start system / plunger not fulling extending, auxiliary air source not completely closing 

 

If you suspect your TB has a worn bushing that's letting air in, and you find a cheap TB on eBay with a good tight bushing, there's nothing wrong with changing it. But I'd recommend that you look at it in the context of one step in the process of chasing an intake leak.

 

I'd also recommend you start by adjusting the valves and verifying that the engine timing is correct. Timing will play havoc with the idle and correct running on these cars. On mine, the distributor wasn't even advancing.

 

 

Rob

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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I would suggest working on the sync procedures before changing out the TB.  I've sync'd my tii enough to know that the symptoms you describe can result from chasing my tail, i.e., quarter turn of this screw, sixteenth turn of that screw, 2 degree turn of the dizzy.  Still not quite right?  Then another eight turn on the first screw . . . . .  Start with the baseline procedure from the manual.

1973 tii, agave, since 1992

1973 tii block 2763759

1967 Mustang GT fastback, since 1986

1999 Toyota 4Runner, 5 speed, ELocker, Supercharged

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Note that tiis came with two different types of throttle bodies (early and later style).  Both my '73 and '74 have the later style throttle body that supposed to be easier to adjust the mixture on.  I think that later style ones are the preferred ones, but either type will work on any tii.  Just an FYI...

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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I agree with lilmo.  The mechanic seems to have indicated that the worn throttle linkage shaft (not a worn throttle shaft/bushing - if I've read what you wrote correctly) is the cause.  If that was really the case, you can put the new throttle shaft into your old throttle body and solve that issue without disturbing the other (idle air mix) settings.  

 

But, that may not be the problem and you may want to see how much of the bad running can be eliminated on your current set up.

 

The manual is pretty straightforward and I did not have any issues synching the setup on my 74tii (as first time owner of a Tii or any  BMW).  I had a challenge trying to get my off-idle mix correct, but it helped to have an O2sensor setup.

 

B

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First thing I would check is the little spring under the round lid for the throttle body. If that is weak, the butterfly will not close properly (or will be slow in movement).

Your throttle body may not look like this one.

pics4112010006.jpg

 

Here is an example of "pinning" the upper cam

pics4112010008.jpg

 

I vote for not R&Ríng the throttle body just yet.  Let's see what is going on with your existing set-up.   Maybe the main throttle lever return spring (horizontal) is weak or broken>>>?

pics121308006.jpg

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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+1 lilmo on messing with that little screw thingie inside the tuna can ..... jgerock shows an excellent picture thereof.

 

on my '74tii that adjustment is finicky and often changes with the color of the sky, or which shoes I put on that morning.  I don't want to say that messing with it is an art form, but it's worth the effort to first mess with it awhile.  Make sure the engine is at operating temperature, then tweak it and drive around and see how it acts.

 

and +1 jgerock on the main throttle lever return spring, make sure it's giving you plenty of pullback force.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

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Mike McCartney's second 2002 restoration book has a very comprehensive section on setting/tuning tii fuel injection systems.  I've never owned a tii, but after reading the section I think I could perform the tasks to set the system up properly.  

 

If you don't have a copy of the book you should get one, or have someone on the board scan the appropriate pages for you.

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Maybe some more questions:

 

Did the problem with the engine dying below 2000 rpm occur just overnight or from one day to the next? Or was that a process with things getting worse slowly bit by bit? Did you change any parts or turn any screws right before it occured? Do you use the car regularly or are there longer periods when it is standing still?

 

Regards, Lars.

Ei guude wie? (Spoken as "I gooooda weee" and hessian idiom for "Hi, how are you?")

 

Já nevím, možná zítra.

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