brakes Drum Brake Clicking Noise After Rebuild

[Teko1]

Recently replaced rear cylinders and shoes on my '75 2002.  Bought the car in Sept. of '12. Finally checking and found that both cylinders had obviously been leaking for a long time.  Got all excited for the test drive after the repair but was disappointed to hear a clicking sound on medium to firm braking, otherwise they stop OK.  I've had them apart again to double-check the setup, bleed the lines, reset the shoes and emergency brake a second time w/o fixing it.  I've done many drum and disc brake jobs on various other car makes; even used the Haynes manual to verify they are on correctly.   I'm baffled!!  Wondering if anyone has experienced this.  If not, just looking for props to keep troubleshooting.  Drum brakes are a pain!

[Teko1]

A couple more details:  I had the drums turned and are still w/in spec.  The clicking sound repeats at what sounds like every half revolution of the wheel.

[TobyB]

Something to rule out- put a 36mm socket and a 2ft breaker bar on the rear hub nuts, and stand on it.

 

To make sure they're tight...

 

t

[stone02]

Hi,

  i have had this occur before and found that 

the brake cable was hitting the rim on the

inside where the wheel weights are mounted.

there is a metal restraint that attaches to the

underside of the trailing arm which is usually

ignored where brake work is done.

let us know what you find. i always check back.

good luck,

stone

[Teko1]

Thanks for the feedback guys.  Just checked the cable and the restraints are in place with about 2-3 inches of clearance from the wheels on both sides. I'll check the hub nuts when I'm back in there to bleed the brakes (master cylinder replacement is needed now).  Appreciate all the ''02 insight gained on this site!  I've resolved a ton of prior issues with the info.

Kurt

[Mike Self]

Are you sure you have that accursed "W"-shaped lower shoe retainer spring installed properly and seated in the proper holes on both shoes?  I seem to recall that if it's installed wrong and/or pops loose, you'll hear it hit something inside the drum assy.

 

mike

[jayamasaki]

I have a somewhat similar problem, only mine is clicking while I drive. It literally sound like a far distant jack hammer noise. Something is obviously hitting something else.

It happened after I tried to do my rear drums. I replaced the cylinders on both sides, but my drums didn't fit over the shoes when I tried to reassemble. so I put the old shoes back on, now I have a clicking or what sounds like a far distant jack hammer noise. It happens while driving, braking, pretty much at times now.

[OriginalOwner]

hmmm, in the spirit of "there are no dumb questions" ....... is it happening on both sides ??

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

[Teko1]

Sounds like it is on both sides but stronger on driver side.  Pretty sure it was stronger on passenger side before reassembling everything.  I'm going to try later today to see if it corresponds to every revolution of the wheel.  Sounds more like 2X clicks for every rev.  That may give some clues.  I'll post results...  Kurt

[Hans]

I'd jack up the rear end and turn each wheel to see if it occurs. Otherwise remove drums and make sure mounting face is clean and on the hub, and that hey seat cleanly. I wonder if the turning of the drums got screwed up somehow.

[Teko1]

The drums have been in the back of my mind...  I had to use a puller to free them both from the hubs as they were rusted on.  When they were turned, maybe they didn't seat correctly on the machine.  That would have prevented them from turning true and could possibly make the shoes move from side to side during braking.  Might be worth a new pair of drums...

[Teko1]

...and if they aren't true, I'd think the frequency of clicking would be 2X wheel rev. to account for the movement to one side and return to the other with each rev. of the wheel.  Sound reasonable?

[Roland]

The drums have been in the back of my mind...  I had to use a puller to free them both from the hubs as they were rusted on.  When they were turned, maybe they didn't seat correctly on the machine.  That would have prevented them from turning true and could possibly make the shoes move from side to side during braking.  Might be worth a new pair of drums...

 

 

 

 

Brake shoes can be poorly constructed (or remanufactured) so that the friction material protrudes beyond the metal stucture and seems crooked.  It is also not impossible for the drum to contain a casting flaw that might contact a poorly fitted/constructed shoe.  Both of these rarities can usually be addressed with a grinder or file.  Another unwanted possibilty: a hairline crack in the drum.  Uncommon, but even an otherwise perfect drum can develop hot spots that may not take well to rapid cooling and develop into cracks.  Think unanticipated puddles or hitting the hot brake drum with a garden hose..  A crack can make itself known with a thumping noise that may only be noticed when braking.

 

 

You did not describe whether the brake shoe linings were bonded or riveted.  Another possibility, that is not supposed to happen on brakes and clutch linings, is one or more loose rivets.  Combine a loose rivet with a slightly out-of-true surface and strange music can result.

 

If, after reexamining the brake drums and the installation of shoes (including the retention spring), you might consider swapping the drums from one side to the other.  Yes, this will probably require shoe and hand brake readjustment.  But neither is all that difficult.  If the noise seems to have moved, you may have reason to get a new or (servicable) used drum.

 

hth

 

Edited February 1, 2014 by Roland

[Hans]

I would wire brush the drum to hub mating surface while you're in there. If something is rubbing, you're going to see bright spots.But you might want to try different drums.

[Teko1]

Been away on business but got back to the brakes yesterday.  Resurfacing the drums resolved the noise issue!

 

Shoe linings are bonded. When I got the turning done the first time, it didn't look as clean as I expected.  In hindsight, should've had them take off a bit more. The telling sign was that swapping the drums did change the sound (one side louder than the other).  I watched the turning this time and the first pass produced an intermittent sound that pointed to an offset or out-of-round condition (one more prominent than the other).  The surfaces looked very good this time (used a different shop).  Popped 'em back on, adjusted everything and sound is gone!  Man, I'm tired of jacking that car up!  Will have to do it again, though to bleed brakes again because the master cylinder is going too.

 

Thanks for all the helpful hints and technical information. 

Kurt