body and interior Rivet For Heater Box

[Henryn02]

Looking for the right size rivets for sealing up the heater box? Anyone know the correct dimensions?

thanks

Henry.

[evbimmer]

Most people just use threaded hardware so that it can be easily opened up again should the need arise.

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/_/technical-articles/body-and-interior/heater-box-removal-and-replacement-r41

[pklym]

3/16", tight fit to get in the rivet holes but they wiggled in and fit nice.

[Mike Self]

I wouldn't use rivets...A pop rivet gun can generate enough force to crack that 40+ year old plastic, that was brittle when new. 

 

Use small countersunk machine screws, with the countersunk head facing the seam where the heater box rests on the car's body.  Put a little Locktite on the threads to keep the nuts from coming loose, and use 3M strip caulk (black stuff) to seal between heater box and body...

 

cheers

mike

[JohnS]

I used little stainless screws with little washers and stainless nylock lock nuts:

 

[Henryn02]

Is that the factory gasket (in your photo set) on the heater box?

 

thanks

Henry

 

.

[JohnS]

Is that the factory gasket (in your photo set) on the heater box?

 

thanks

Henry

 

.

Yes.  Many advise against using it and prefer to use the strip caulk like Mike suggests because the factory foam gasket deteriorates over time, but I ordered it and decided to use it.  The car is garaged most of the time anyway, so it doesn't see much weather.  The factory gasket is peel and stick which is kinda nice.

 

Edited February 28, 2014 by JohnS

[schoir]

Do you have any more detailed photos of the metal bracket that you fabricated to support or to replace the plastic ear that holds the heater valve?

 

I have to replace my little hose and I'm sure that the plastic ear will need some care when I try to install the hose.

 

I found 3 other heater boxes in the attic of my garage, and each one of them has a broken ear. 

 

Regards, Maurice.

[xferboy]

I used cheapish aluminum Chicago screws from Home Depot

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=chicago+screw

 

Worked great, sit just about flush on both sides.  Little thread locker.  hope they come apart in 20 years.

[JohnS]

Do you have any more detailed photos of the metal bracket that you fabricated to support or to replace the plastic ear that holds the heater valve?

 

 

I purchased those brackets a long time ago on the FAQ.  I don't think the guy is around much anymore Greg K I think was his name.

 

It's held in place with pop rivets and JB Weld Epoxy.  It's overkill.  The heater water hoses alone are strong enough to hold the valve in place without that bracket.

 

 

 

Edited March 1, 2014 by JohnS

[schoir]

Thanks for the detailed photos and for going to the trouble of showing me both sides.

 

I'll probably fab up my own little aluminum bracket and use some "Black Magic" two part epoxy panel bonder to hold everything together.

 

Good to know that the hoses can basically hold everything in place.

 

Regards, Maurice.

[JohnS]

I probably got about 100 pictures from when I rebuilt that heater box.  What a freak eh?  Here's a couple that show what the foam on a new heater core looks like.  Useful if you are redoing your core and want to put the foam back on it correctly. 

 

 

[JohnS]

Valve:

 

[JohnS]

Here's what the original looked like.  Fugly! Both valve and core were leaking. Notice the pieces of hose and brass plugs that I used to cap the core before removing the heater box from the car.  That way you don't spill antifreeze all over the interior of your car.  I also used similar hoses, plugs and a pressure guage to pressure test things after reassembly.

 

 

[Henryn02]

Thanks.

I like the idea of the Chicago screws so there is no or little interference on sheet metal. 

 

Henry