body and interior Rivet For Heater Box

[Rocan]

I used slightly oversized rivets with a brass washer at either end to help distribute the load. no cracking and looks factory. Using removable hardware means the foam wont sit perfectly flat on the edge, so in time a leak may develop there. It will probably work fine, but rivets are best because the seal will never come loose from vibration. The heater core really only needs a cleaning every 5-10 years if you drive in the fall a lot, and drilling rivets once every 5 years isn't much of a chore.

 

just my 2 cents. 

 

I have tons of rivets and washers left over if anyone wants. Also the correct foam for the inside and out and the correct grommets. When I ordered for my own I ordered a lot of extra. 

[schoir]

JohnS:  More nice pics.  Those will indeed be very helpful whenever someone has to refurbish their heater core and heater box.

 

I'm firmly in the camp of those who believe you can never have too many pictures.    That brass plug idea will save someone's recently installed new carpet set! 

 

Thanks again.

 

Regards, Maurice.

[JohnS]

Thanks.

I like the idea of the Chicago screws so there is no or little interference on sheet metal. 

 

Henry

 

Using the factory gasket (which is pretty thick) or strip caulk provides enough of a cushion between the sheet metal and the pan head screws that there is no metal to metal contact.  This rebuild from the pictures is one that I rebuilt years ago using the same hardware and had to go back and open it up again.  I was glad I didn't use any rivets.  It worked great, no leaks where the heater box sealed to the body and nothing ever came loose over many years of daily use. The nylock lock nuts hold pretty damn good.

 

Edited March 2, 2014 by JohnS

[JohnS]

Rainy day, dream away...

 

smaller flat washers with bigger holes to make the pan heads screws recess more:

 

 

Larger flat washers on the back side:

 

Edited March 2, 2014 by JohnS