Just In Time For Summer - 1971 Bmw 1600

[BLUNT]

Yes  Thanks to Ray I am now supplying Ice cream with every order again

[danco_]

So some updates. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The photo above represents two O2 sensor bungs. The first was done by Jason Rose of Heritage Motorsports as a request before he shipped me the headers. I shouldn't have asked, as it was pointless, considering the bung position. Absolutely useless. That guy has given me nothing but problems since the moment I met him. I'll still send him a christmas card but it won't be as nice as others I plan on sending.

 

The second bung was welded in by RJ over at Ireland Engineering right before I picked up the headers. His welds are better, as he is a better fabricator overall. This is the bung I will use for the AFR gauge. 

 

 

 

 

The photo above is essentially damage done by IE's fabricator. When I sent over the headers, I knew they had to send it over to their exhaust fab guy to R&D and create another unit based off mine. What I wasn't expecting is physical crimping remnants of all four primaries and all secondary tubes of the exhaust. The exhaust tubes are actually crimped to the point where it altered the diameters of the tubes. I'm not happy about this. Crimping marks everywhere. 

 

Not cool, IE. Not cool.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And this is just a photo of the engine bay with nothing hooked up to the new carb and manifold. Dirty, and nothing special.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Headers are in. Oh yeah, I sprayed them with hi-temp paint just to clean them up because IE's fabricator wrote a bunch of words all over it during the R&D. Likely reference points.

 

 

 

 

Threw a simple air cleaner on the carb. This will due for now. I want to try something different a bit later, or not at all. Because turbo.

 

 

Another view. Dirty bay. But I wired up the electric choke. Still don't know if it works, but the wire is getting 12v signal so that's nice. 

 

 

 

And I quickly hooked up the O2 sensor, and the wiring outside of the car to see if the AFR gauge works. Looks like it does. 

 

The gauge is reading 9.6-10.0 at idle. This is a bit rich, but I haven't tuned the carb yet. I barely got it on and whatever jets are currently in it, were from the previous owner in New York. It was tuned for his car. Tomorrow I will hardwire it all in and probably make a cool bracket to run the gauge somewhere. Any suggestions as to gauge location? I was thinking in the center console or coming off the side of the center console. I'll look into this more tomorrow. 

 

 

 

 

 

So I took the car out for a spin. Even running rich and a slight, slight stumble at the very beginning of acceleration, the car runs really good. It's faster, and more responsive than the single sidedraft carb setup. 

 

Oh and I had to do some cutting, heating with the torch, bending, and welding to make the carb linkage from IE work, but it now works and the pedal is right where I want it. 

 

 

 

 

 

I should tune the carb and then replace the carpet. 

But then I'll probably want to paint it. 

 

 

 

 

But still. This car is super ridiculously fun.

Edited January 9, 2015 by danco_

[dkal]

I have the same manifold in a box to support that carb, should I temporarily while rebuilding the original core motor...

[ray_]

I have the same manifold in a box to support that carb, should I temporarily while rebuilding the original core motor...

 

 

I think you accidentally.

 

[danco_]

Meanwhile, today in the warehouse:

 

 

 

 

 

I utilized a few zipties to get the gauge where I want it. I'll start making a decent enclosure that mounts where the gauge currently is. Maybe next week.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The car is definitely running lean, but I hope to take care of that next week. Some time during the engine bay work, I must have wiggled the blue alternator wire loose. I ran the car for a little while, but promptly killed the battery. I scratched my head for a while trying to figure out what it was. So I left and grabbed some food (a burrito), and when I came back, the first thing I checked turned out to be the issue. Burritos really do work.

 

 

 

 

 

So I hooked up a trickle charger to the batter under the rear seat. 

Side note: My rear seat's horse hair is disintegrating. I need to do something about this. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And this charger is pretty cool. It showed me that when I began the charge, the battery was 11% charged. It knew the battery was an AGM battery, which I was also amazed by. In the photo, the battery was up to 39% charged. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also swapped the rear bumper back to the one without the three main holes in the center section. But I forgot to snap a photo of this. 

 

 

 

That's all I have. I think I'm going to get off the internet now.

[jgerock]

Parking your 02 next to the B7 makes your car look tiny.  Nice M5 too!

 

I suggest mounting the WB gauge in the left shelf using a simple mounting cup - unless your car has the hazard switch there.

[M3M3]

Noted in your mirrored thread on r3v that you're hazard switch is to the left of instrument pod.

Can you actually see the guage while driving in that location under the dash? If you can't easily see it, it is useless.

[ray_]

Is the technology here yet?

 

http://www.gizmag.com/navdy-hud-car/33247/

[danco_]

Noted in your mirrored thread on r3v that you're hazard switch is to the left of instrument pod.

Can you actually see the guage while driving in that location under the dash? If you can't easily see it, it is useless.

It's not a very good location, I'll admit. My view is slightly obstructed by the right-hand blinker stock or the steering wheel, depending on if I'm turning the wheel.

I'll have to come up with a better location. I may end up doing a 3-gauge pod up top, as much as I don't want to.

  

Is the technology here yet?

 

http://www.gizmag.com/navdy-hud-car/33247/

I wish. A HUD would be pretty sweet.

[ray_]

I think the tech is almost here. Actually I know you can stream AFR's to a smartphone.

 

 

 

http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI

 

Er, this:

 

http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-wifi-wideband-uego-afr-controller

 

If you link it to this, there you are....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WORLD-039-S-FIRST-4-5-034-CAR-VIRTUAL-DISPLAY-HRAD-UP-WINDSHIELD-PROJECTOR-for-iPHONE-/151541359517?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Edited January 10, 2015 by ray_

[danco_]

I think the tech is almost here. Actually I know you can stream AFR's to a smartphone.

 

 

 

http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI

 

Er, this:

 

http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-wifi-wideband-uego-afr-controller

 

If you link it to this, there you are....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WORLD-039-S-FIRST-4-5-034-CAR-VIRTUAL-DISPLAY-HRAD-UP-WINDSHIELD-PROJECTOR-for-iPHONE-/151541359517?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

This is too much tech for a car that has like 4 sensors, 13 total wires and 6 fuses.

I'll just pretend I have a HUD unit and speakers. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today:

 

A little ahead of schedule, but I pulled an extra set of strut housings out of storage and am preparing them for coilovers. Give me a week and I'll make your wildest dreams come true. And an extra front subframe. I'm going to do something with that one too. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I played with the air/fuel screw on the carb today and got it to idle a bit leaner. I was at 13.1, but I backed off and left it at 12.4-12.6.

 

And this is my view of the gauge when driving. Not the best, but not the worst. I can think of 20 other places to mount this gauge that would be significantly worse than where it is now. 

 

[danco_]

But anyways, sneak peek: 

 

 

 

 

 

and reinforced housings because I plan on taking it off some sweet jumps 

 

 

 

Marshall, this is where you come in. This pictured set up consists of 2.5" sectioned housings, with Bilstein Sport Rabbit Inserts, followed by 300lb Eibach springs. I don't know of their length yet, but I will in the coming days. I will be using stock strut bearings with the fixed camber plates that are currently on the car. Do you see any rising issue with this?

 

 

And for the rear, I was thinking about Bilstein Sport shocks with 350lb springs (probably 8" in length). Again, any issue with this? I figure the rear spring should be a little stiffer than the front, and with the adjustability of the swaybars, I should be able to achieve either neutral handling, or slight oversteer. Again, this is all theoretical. I value your opinion on this matter. 

 

The goal of this suspension was geared towards "canyon carving" or "light autocross", of which I fully intend to participate in as soon as I can. 

 

What do you think? Feel free to chime in if I'm doing something wrong or my logic is flawed. 

[danco_]

I don't really know what I was thinking. 

 

300 lb front springs sounds like a terrible idea. I'm going to back down to 250lb front springs, and run a smaller spring rate rear spring as well. 

[M3M3]

Those are 7 in springs. Says so right on them. :-) that is the right length.

Not a daily driver, right?

I would give those 300's a try and see how you like them. Simple to swap later if you don't.

No issues with the stock upper bearings, but you will be wanting more camber if you start doing auto-x.

rear should be ok at 350.

[danco_]

Those are 7 in springs. Says so right on them. :-) that is the right length.

Not a daily driver, right?

I would give those 300's a try and see how you like them. Simple to swap later if you don't.

No issues with the stock upper bearings, but you will be wanting more camber if you start doing auto-x.

rear should be ok at 350.

I was scared you were going to say that regarding more camber for autox. 

 

maybe these will help?  http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-suspension-steering/02rollspacercamber.html

I know these are 13mm and you are running something like 26mm offset spacers, but the general concept make sense.

 

I read a thread where you responded and mentioned you were running offset roll-spacers to increase camber .7 degrees?

I figure I will be fairly low (no gap between tire and fender), so roll-center spacers might not be such a bad idea. But then I'd need to run a 15" wheel, or shave part of the lower control arm to continue running the 14" wheels currently on the car.  Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Regarding the carb tuning, I met with Jeff Tighe at T&P Motorsports today and he drove my car around for a bit and said he wouldn't change a thing and that my car is perfectly setup for the street. He says that my carb is set up very well and that the AFR numbers (currently) are actually really good (??) and that anything he would do as far as tuning would be in vain. 

 

Jeff knows what he's talking about...much more than I do. Everything I know is theoretical and from the internet. He's an experienced racer/tuner/mechanic. If he says that my car handles well and drives equally as well (in his opinion), that's almost good enough for me. I do think I will play with the carb and suspension some more before I'm content though.