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Just In Time For Summer - 1971 Bmw 1600


danco_

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FWIW I just switched from Bilstein Sports + H&R sport springs + IE fixed camber plates to a full Ground Control setup with camber plates and 350 F 400 R springs and Koni struts as recommended by GC.

I was pretty nervous about those spring rates when they suggested them, but I figured I'd try it and worst case I'd ditch them for some softer ones. I haven't put many miles on the GCs but so far I'm really happy with them. They're stiff (not more so than the previous setup) but it feels much more smooth and planted. I have the rebound set at full soft right now.

Btw: just came across this thread a few days ago and finally got to this point. Just wanted to say I've really enjoyed reading about your journey with the car. Makes me wish I would have started one from the beginning with my car. All I have is a spreadsheet with a long parts and maintenance list.

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Thanks Marshall. I'll meditate on this. 

 

From what I've gathered, there are three suppliers for roll-center spacers. 

1. IE sells 13mm spacers - standard and offset

2. Massive sells 26mm spacers - standard and offset

3. 2002 Motorwerks sells 22mm spacers - standard and offset

 

You mention with offset spacers, the wheel will be pushed a few mm towards the fender. Right now the current wheel is et18, which is already a bit low. I don't think I want to push it out even further. Maybe standard roll-center spacers is what I'll go after. And maybe 22mm spacers is what I'll end up with. I think I'll flip a coin tomorrow and let fate decide what is best for my car. 

 

 

And yes Ray, THE Jeff Tighe. I gave him my super racing oil pan for pennies. Even if he's a grouch 78% of the time, I still appreciate what he's done for the car this far. 

 

 

 

FWIW I just switched from Bilstein Sports + H&R sport springs + IE fixed camber plates to a full Ground Control setup with camber plates and 350 F 400 R springs and Koni struts as recommended by GC.

I was pretty nervous about those spring rates when they suggested them, but I figured I'd try it and worst case I'd ditch them for some softer ones. I haven't put many miles on the GCs but so far I'm really happy with them. They're stiff (not more so than the previous setup) but it feels much more smooth and planted. I have the rebound set at full soft right now.

Btw: just came across this thread a few days ago and finally got to this point. Just wanted to say I've really enjoyed reading about your journey with the car. Makes me wish I would have started one from the beginning with my car. All I have is a spreadsheet with a long parts and maintenance list.

I'm going to have GC whip me up a set of suspension for the orange car. I want to compare all three or four cars side by side and decide what I like best. I know this makes no sense and is completely cost inefficient, but no one said I have to be logical when building cars. But I'm jealous. I want Konis so bad, but the only way to get them is with the big tubes. 

 

And thank you for the kind words regarding the "build." Most of these parts were lying around my garage or warehouse or under my bed and I, against my master plans, sort of threw them at this blue 1600. Don't know if it was a good idea, but it's done. I'll continue to "upgrade" and change my mind, and as long as I do, I will update this thread. There is no end in sight. 

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some surfboards

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From what I've gathered, there are three suppliers for roll-center spacers. 1. IE sells 13mm spacers - standard and offset 2. Massive sells 26mm spacers - standard and offset 3. 2002 Motorwerks sells 22mm spacers - standard and offset You mention with offset spacers, the wheel will be pushed a few mm towards the fender. Right now the current wheel is et18, which is already a bit low. I don't think I want to push it out even further. Maybe standard roll-center spacers is what I'll go after. And maybe 22mm spacers is what I'll end up with. I think I'll flip a coin tomorrow and let fate decide what is best for my car.

 

the distance there is vertical.  how far the control arm is pushed down.  15in wheels are required with the 26mm Massive ones.

 

standard roll center spacers will not get you any more camber.  it is the OFFSET that creates the camber by moving the bottom of the strut out.  while the bottom of the strut may be pushed out 15mm, the top ends up going out a few mm too.

 

yes, that 18et is a challenge...25 would be better....

2xM3

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So I got back to the battery relocation project. 
 
 

anfNzqa.jpg?1
 

 

How did you add the posts on this battery to accept the E30 terminals?

 

I went and looked at one of these at Autozone today, but there's no posts to stick the terminals on.

Edited by Beach_Bum
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How did you add the posts on this battery to accept the E30 terminals?

 

I went and looked at one of these at Autozone today, but there's no posts to stick the terminals on.

Check out these links:

http://www.amazon.com/Big-Crank-ETX18L-Battery/dp/B002ZEYTR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421452552&sr=8-2&keywords=big+crank+agm+battery&pebp=1421452569279&peasin=B002ZEYTR4

 

and 

 

http://www.amazon.com/XS-Power-586-Adaptor-Thread/dp/B004XH69MY/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_y

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  • 2 weeks later...

I started to relocate my battery yesterday. Can I say how much I hate battery cables! What a pain to route that thing...there's hardly any flex in it.

 

The battery tie-down I had planned isn't going to work, so I'm going to copy yours :) Do you have bolts under the car, or did you use sheet metal screws to secure the bracket?

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I started to relocate my battery yesterday. Can I say how much I hate battery cables! What a pain to route that thing...there's hardly any flex in it.

 

The battery tie-down I had planned isn't going to work, so I'm going to copy yours :) Do you have bolts under the car, or did you use sheet metal screws to secure the bracket?

 

What a great question! 

 

I think I set it up using a nut/bolt combo. But if I used sheet metal screws, then that is a viable option as well. Make sure to coat the newly drilled hole with some POR-15 or some other chemical that neutralizes and protects from rust. The Lord knows how these cars like to rust.

 

As for the bracket, I made it maybe 1/8" bigger on each side (than the battery itself) to allow me to actually slide the battery up and out if servicing is needed. It stays in snugly with the bracket, but removing the battery cables allows the battery to be removed as well without removing the bracket as well. I know I just said the same thing twice, but it has worked out really well. I think I used the seatbelt buckle bracket as a grounding point for the battery as well. 

 

Good luck! I have more updates soon, but I have been busy with a few other projects. 

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And some photos:

 

I'm revisiting the front seats. It's not that I don't like the current front seats, but the passenger seat has little to no horsehair left, and when I do have a passenger in the car, I have to apologize for the springs trying to dig their way into places they simply don't belong. I've had these seats for a while. Pending a friend's decision to purchase, I may just whip up some brackets and throw them in the the car for the time being. These will pair nicely with the stiffer suspension. 

 

3JonZR6.jpg?1

 

 

 

And I redid a set of rear tail light housings. These were a nightmare, but in the end, I think I won the battle. 

 

mUk4Hhy.jpg?1

 

 

 

Third, I want to have an original radiator recored (triple core). I don't mind the radiator currently in it, but I want to go with a "period correct" radiator. Don't ask me why, but I just do. Part of the reason for this is because I need to take the radiator out to swap out the alternator pulley anyways. I want to run the mechanical fan again, and this will allow me to accomplish both projects. I may be selling the IE unit soon. I'm pulling the racing alternator pulley as it's not charging the battery very well. A smaller (stock) pulley should solve this, as it enables the the alternator to spin at a higher rpm at idle. 

 

I also want to chase down the cooling issue in stop-and-go traffic. I figure that if I replace a bunch of things, I should be able to fix it. If not, then I look to the motor for potential issues. Unlikely, but plausible. I intend on testing (and replacing if necessary) the current 71C thermostat, and rebuilding the original heater valve. I'll probably redo the heater core "while I'm in there".

 

fjRBT3S.jpg?1

 

 

 

And more stuff. Always more stuff. I think I'm going to throw in a new carpet kit as well. I purchased a salt n pepper set from Esty years ago. Time to use it. 

 

 

Ryan,

Funny how your "Big Crank" battery says it is from Winchester, VA  :)

 

 

jim

 

I've actually been impressed with it. It does is job well, even a "high compression" motor such as mine. 

 

This reminds me. I'm going to do a compression and leakdown test on this motor. I want to start a small notebook that stays with the car at all times. It's good to document these things and know what the motor is doing. 

some cars

some motorcycles

some airplanes

some surfboards

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