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Heater Valve To Block


jayamasaki

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Just found my car was leaking coolant from the firewall area, took me a few days to actually get up under and check. Finally looked yesterday, looked like it was the heater valve hose, figured no problem. proceeded to remove and it turns out the piece that attaches to the block was corroded and still on the hose.

 

does anyone know or have an exploded view of the piece from the block ?  the hose goes from the heater valve to the block, the block is the piece that corroded.

 

it looks like it has points (so you can remove it) on it, is it possible to replace just that piece ?

 

 

1968 BMW 1600 Chmnx White

1976 2002 Parts car

2003 f150

60% of the time, it works every time!

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When I look at my engine where the heater valve hose connects to the block it looks like that connection has a hex head to it, so, I would assume it can be unscrewed.  I was unable to find a bmwfans.info diagram refering to the part though.  Maybe someone can come up with a P/N for you so you can replace the connector.  In the meantime you might want to spray that connector several times with a good penetrating oil in order to facilitate its removal.

 

Bob Napier

Edited by Napes
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YES BLUNT !!!

 

I hit it with a ton of PB Blaster.

 

Blunt, google wallet me ASAP. LOL.

 

I think I need #3 & #4 & the hose if you have it.

 

Are they the same for all blocks ? 68 - 76 ? Mine is a 68/1600

1968 BMW 1600 Chmnx White

1976 2002 Parts car

2003 f150

60% of the time, it works every time!

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Measure the nipple od on the heater valve, that will give a clue to the hose/head outlet size.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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@ Toby B, thank you for that info.

is there a block stamp or something I can get to verify my engine and get the correct part ?

The engine number, on a flat-machined boss just aft of the starter motor, may be a starting point, but many engines today no longer run their original cylinder heads. Since this nipple attaches to the rear of the head, it might correctly be a function of cylinder head model rather than the engine block. On the left side (intake manifold side) of the head, often between the 3rd and 4th cylinders' intake runners, there should be a cylinder head model number and date.

Steve

post-41123-0-69050700-1393956578_thumb.j

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Ok, my tranny says 124618/6 right above that on the block it says 272, and the block by the starter matches my vin 1560238. The nut part is a 22, the thread apex measures 17 or 18, and nipple side is maybe 15 or 16. I used my open ends to get an approximation. Hope someone can help me.
It's probably the smallest one, but again I'd like experts to chime in here.
Tyia

Jay...

Edited by jayamasaki

1968 BMW 1600 Chmnx White

1976 2002 Parts car

2003 f150

60% of the time, it works every time!

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I think I have the middle one picture here.

 

Its not the one on the right, and the one to the far left might be correct as well but the lock neck part is the part that was corroded down to the base almost.

 

what size is that middle one ?

post-38412-0-27010800-1394203437_thumb.j

Edited by jayamasaki

1968 BMW 1600 Chmnx White

1976 2002 Parts car

2003 f150

60% of the time, it works every time!

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One of the best tools I ever bought was this cheap pair of metric calipers. 

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-utility-caliper-7914.html

 

I use it all the time to measure bolts so that I know what size they are.  Once you get your old one out, you can measure the threaded part to see what size it is.

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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