engine and drivetrain Ignition Goes Click. Opinions Please

[PaulTWinterton]

One year ago my vintage starter was very weak and turned the engine slowly. I had it rebuilt by a reputable company that did a pretty (looks like new)job, and they replaced the solenoid as well.

The rebuilt starter turns the engine VERY FAST. Car starts like a charm.

BUT every so often I will experience only a CLICK when I turn the key. This happens when the cars been running for a few hours in traffic.

Did it today. Drove for an hour, stopped, turned key to start, clicked 3 times, and then started.

Clarification:

- All obvious cables are clean and well attached

- Battery and alternator are strong and charging

- Relay behind coil clicks as well

- All wiring is original with no extra wiring by POs

- I believe all other grounds are good, but I may have missed a critical one

Added clue:

I own a Pat Allen Diagnostic Tool. When attached to ALL other 02s, it starts the car every time. When I attach it to mine, the solenoid only CLICKS, every time.

My thought is weak voltage somewhere.

Thoughts or experience?

Thanks for reading and replying.

Cheers,

Paul

[JohnS]

On the E9 forum I described how I added a low voltage starter relay on my '73 tii.  Here's the link:

 

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16071

[oh2fly]

Check the two screws that hold the solenid to the starter. Put car in neutral, jump between the main stud with pos. cable on starter to the spade terminal with the black wire on it. If it doesn't crank, you need another solenoid

[Arizona02]

The small wire is resisting amp flow to starter. common  problem on old VW Bugs too that i have fixed. Add relay to solve it or  replace wire from ignition switch to starter on outside of wiring harness.

[PaulTWinterton]

Thanks for the posts.

 

Gives me direction.

 

Cheers

[PaulTWinterton]

Tested as advised above. Still can't solve this problem. I don't want to wire an extra relay because it shouldn't be necessary. I've tested the Diagnostic Tool on other cars and it works just fine.

I'm still having the issue of the "click" after an hour or two of driving and the engine is at full temperature.

I'm taking the car into an engine electrical specialist on Monday. They specialize in vintage electrical.

Fingers crossed that I get a correct diagnosis and repair.

[jgerock]

The small wire is resisting amp flow to starter. common  problem on old VW Bugs too that i have fixed. Add relay to solve it or  replace wire from ignition switch to starter on outside of wiring harness.

I added a relay to my 71 Bug after futzing around with my three other Bugs that caused me grief.  Lots of resistance from the battery to the ignition switch all the way back to the starter solenoid.  It started up every time after adding the relay.

[Mike Self]

I'm guessing the rebuilt starter has a problem when hot.  I've seen/experienced it before; works fine when cold, but once the engine's hot, it sometimes doesn't cooperate.

 

Try this:  next time you get "the click" have someone hold the key in the start position while you smartly rap first the solenoid, then the starter motor case itself with a small hammer.  Don't beat it to death, just a nice sharp tap.  If a rap on the solenoid makes it function, then there's a fault in the solenoid.  If a whack on the motor housing itself results in a functioning motor, then I'd return the motor to the seller and get another one.

 

mike

[PaulTWinterton]

Mike, you just enlightened me, I hope.

As I stated earlier, the Pat Allen Diagnostic Unit makes the starter "click" EVERY time, not intermittently like the key switch when the engine is warm.

I can simulate the hot engine scenario and test the solenoid/starter with a firm tap. If the starter works with that technique I would presume that the diagnostic circuitry is (a little) less voltage, and not enough to actuate the solenoid/starter.

I'll try that today.