engine and drivetrain Rebuild Complete But Wont Start!

[Rusty1983]

Hi all,

I have completed an engine rebuild and upgrade to twin carbs. Engine is now all installed and trying to piece together the last of the electrics so I can fire it up!

I had previously disconnected alternator, starter and distributer connections. I think I have connected these about right now. I also have a big black fuse box with a wire in and out. I don't know what this is or where the wires go? I think one may have gone to the battery and the other end is a small spade terminal that could reach anywhere in the engine bay?

I have also moved the battery to the back and added an Elec fuel pump but I don't think these are the pro lens as it just won't key on at the moment. I think the biggest problem is where do I connect this remaining fuse box too? I do have an imobiliset on the steering column, so don't know if it s part of that?

Any help much appreciated!

Thanks

Russ

[Solarphil]

One good tip I learned many years ago was limit changes, so that you're only chasing one variable at a time.  You're going to have a little more challenge, as it looks like many things were changed at once.  However, it is probably best to start with the basics.  

 

Can you get the motor to crank, but can't get it to catch?  Check to make sure you have spark to the plug, and since you did a rebuild double check to make sure the plugs are firing on the compression stroke, not exhaust.  One TDC is not the same as the other, ask me how I know (sheepish grin).

 

However, based on "it just won't key on" I'm going to guess that you can't get the starter to crank.  Since you moved the battery to the trunk, you are using the chassis as the negative return for the starter.  Your original battery location probably had a braided wire connecting battery negative to both the chassis (small braided section for the ancillary systems return) as well as the starter.  Your battery negative in the new trunk location is connected, but did you recreate the starter-to-chassis connection at the front end?  

 

BTW, the connections you have there in the trunk are probably OK for testing, but for long term reliability and safety you should really improve them.  Copper is a great conductor, steel is ok, but the conductivity through paint on a threaded rod originally designed to hold a jack is probably sucky at best.  Drill (and preferably tap) a hole, sand off the paint to shiny metal, use anti-oxidant goop to keep it low resistance.  Even more importantly, secure your battery disconnect switch -- it wouldn't take much of a luggage shift during a corner to knock it loose or bend it back, and the fault current available from even a small automotive battery is not something to be taken lightly.  There are some rear strut braces with battery brackets that are available from 02 FAQ'ers that have a pre-drilled hole for that disconnect -- you might want to check them out. 

[Rusty1983]

Thanks for the reply. I have some good news but still no start!

 

I have removed the top red wires as not needed (may be previous spot lights). I have sorted out the negatives as mentioned so have a decent earth in the trunk and have run chassis to engine block. I think most importantly I realised that one was meant to be positive not negative     I have now wired this correctly and..

 

When I key on I have all electrics working and when I key second position I have starte motor turning. However it sounds like its not engaging, the engine is certainly not turning over and also the coil is not getting hot or elec fuel pump working. I think I am now missing another stage. From reading again I dont think I have a negative from the starter to the block so I will go and have a look at that now.

 

Also its not clear from the picture but yes, this is just a temporary set up in the back. I now have a frame work around the battery to support and strap down and the cut off switch is mounted.

[schoir]

If the starter is turning and the engine is not turning over, there is a missing event:  the starter teeth engaging with the flywheel teeth.

 

Regards, Maurice.

[73touring]

Sounds obious but is there enough charge on the battery? Sometimes a starter will spin but not engage if there isnt enough current available. Might also be worth giving the starter a good wack of a hammer.

[Hans]

If the starter is turning, it is grounded. But poor connections will limit flow of juice. There should be a ground strap from block to frame/old battery tray. All those main power cables need clean connection points. Also check battery level as above. 

[KFunk]

You're not triggering both of the right posts on the starter.  One makes it spin, and the other makes the pinion pop out and engage the flywheel.  I can't remember which is which, and they vary with types of starters, but I know when I lay my screwdriver across the posts of the starter to do some redneck keyless starting, I've gotta lay it across ground and two other posts, or else it doesn't actually turn the engine over. 

Edited April 27, 2014 by KFunk

[Rusty1983]

Win!! It turns out that the battery was duff as mentioned above (thanks!!!  ) It showed 12V and turned the starter but when I connected another it cranked! I then bought a new battery and realised I had timing 180 out. After changing that she now runs! Amazing... MOT next week now.

 

Thanks again for the advice.