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Rear Wheel Bearing Center Spacer Toast, Right?


GreenSwede

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Thanks. I've read that. And a few others. I was hoping to do only that, but it seems I've got more problems - center spacer worn, or worn splines. 

But of course I'll replace the bearings while there, with 35g of grease. Or more. One could drill and tap the trailing arm for a grease - don't know the word - coupler/fitting..=)

Edited by GreenSwede

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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I got on with it. A bit, at least. 

 

I got the nut loose on the donor trailing arm (3/4" handle with a 2 meter long pipe on did it), and the hub is sitting tightly. Really tight. I've broken to pullers this weekend. Tomorrow I'll take it to a shop that has more heat and more sturdy pullers..

 

Anyway, I jacked up the car again and thought I'd check the hub there. I took off the wheel and the drum and pulled it off by hand. No wonder, one might think since the wheel has play. Unless I torque the nut a bit it has quite some play, so I guess the splines are toast. I lost the spirit and will get the donor one apart, and then get the stub and bearings out of the car. 

 

The way the donor sits, I'm guessing those splines are ok.

Edited by GreenSwede

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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Yup.  The tight (and really tight) ones are almost always good.  It's the loose ones you have to check carefully.

I've drilled more than one nut off a hub- especially when the trailing arm's loose, because it's hard

to get a really good hold on it without damaging something else.

 

Also, a cordless drill's easy to take to the junkyard.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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