engine and drivetrain 1976 Bmw 2002, Differential Slipping. I Think.

[Jason Dittmer]

When I change the diff fluid I removed the fill plug first and some oil came out. So I don't think it was low. But, the oil was a light gray color. 

 

This is the oil I used in the differential. 

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=47&catid=12&loc=show

 

Also, I cleaned out my trunk and I'm going on a long drive this afternoon. I'll let you guys know if I hear any clunk noises.

[peterschop]

The 02 Owner's handbook calls for SAE 90 hypoid gear oil. I do not see that the Lucas gear oil say anything about hypoid oil. I used Red Line 75w90 gear oil in mine.  If you search this site, you will find a lot of information about what type of fluid to use.

 

The differential takes a little over a quart of gear oil.

['76mintgrün'02]

Okay, I just stopped your video at :21 and 1:31 and your rear sub mounts look old, but appear to have rubber in them still 

 

The sway bar mounts look like they could be a little loose, but hanging makes them look funny sometimes.  Are the front two mounts still there and in okay condition?  I would personally open the front sway bushings up and fill them with a bunch of Sil-Glyde.  In order to work well, they need to pivot inside the rubber.  When I took my old ones out they had glued themselves to the bar.

 

at :40 there is a glimpse as the camera is panning... after the words ..."differential fluid..." where I see what looks like plumber's tape with a screw making it into a loop and the screw is missing a nut... (non-oem part).  

 

This could have been an attempt at hanging the exhaust?

 

Are the rubber donuts the exhaust hangs from tired and stretched? 

 

Try lifting and lowering the tail pipe to make it clunk on the sub-frame.  

['76mintgrün'02]

I cleaned out my trunk

 

It would be kinda funny if junk in the trunk caused the clunk

Edited April 30, 2014 by '76Mintgrun'02

[allbim]

When I watch your video, it looks to me like the wheel is rotating a lot more than the CV joint. Now that you have the axle-nut off,  check to see if there is any play between the axle and the brake-drum.

[Tommy]

It did involve a 5 foot breaker bar and liquid wrench to get the castle nut off. That nut was on there very tight. I took some pictures of the splines with the nut off.

 

 

Allright, you just made it sound too easy Then the shaft is ok.

 

I'm with others saying to check all the rubber bushings and exhaust and the trunk. It wouldn't be too weird if there's a wrench left under spare wheel or something like that. Maybe exhaust would be #1 guess at this point. 

Could be also center support of the propeller shaft.

 

 

  Tommy

Edited April 30, 2014 by Tommy

[Jason Dittmer]

I found the problem. It was my differential. One of the gears broke in half. I just got a new diff in the mail, but my center bearing is also shot. So I'm waiting for my new center bearing to come in the mail before I put it all back together again.

 

 

 

The only question I have now is "How the hell do I get this bolt out of the driveshaft?"

 

[Buckeye]

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/122420-anyone-changed-a-drive-shaft-center-bearing-tips/

[Tommy]

Surprising to see that - you were right after all that there's something wrong in the diff. Apparent now that it was an open diff. Your center bearing is indeed shot!. Not sure which of those made your "clunk" noise but it should be ok when those are fixed.

 

  Tommy

[DUDONLY]

To remove the 24mm nut on the driveshaft..... You need a 24mm boxed end wrench with a thin profile to be able get on the nut.....bend the driveshaft at the ujoint for access to the nut. Also when you get the nut off make a mark on each side of the driveshaft to reassemble in the same position when you put it back together. Make sure that when you install the center bearing you push it all the way forward and then tighten the nuts this will help with vibrations. This is also known as pre loading.

HTH

Edited May 9, 2014 by DUDONLY

[FB73tii]

The only question I have now is "How the hell do I get this bolt out of the driveshaft?"

 

All of the above sugestions plus heat. I use a MAPP gas torch to heat the nut. That plus a vice, ground-down wrench, and a mallet. Mine was very difficult to remove recently.

[Jason Dittmer]

I had to grind down my 24mm Craftsman Wrench, but it finally fit. I marked the driveshaft so I could put it back together the same way I took it apart. The nut wasn't on there very tight. I didn't even need a cheater bar.

 

I used a puller to pull off the center bearing.

Edited May 10, 2014 by Dittmer

[Jason Dittmer]

My new center bearing comes on Monday.

Edited May 10, 2014 by Dittmer

[Buckeye]

That nut should have been torqued to about 130 ft-lb. wonder PO replaced cb before and didn't realize that had be torqued properly.

[Jason Dittmer]

I spent five hours working on my car Monday night. I put the new center bearing in the drive shaft using a vise and my customized 24mm wrench.

 

I had Tally Tire install the new bushings in my differential mount.

http://www.talleytire.com/

 

I used a floor jack to support the differential while I moved it into position. Then I replaced the bolts that hold the diff to the subframe and the diff mount.

 

Finally, I bolted on the CV shafts and the driveshaft and went for a late night ride.

 

Also, I took it for a long ride on the interstate today and it felt really good.

 

But, there is one little problem. My driver side CV shaft is missing one of the six bolts that connect to the differential. I stripped out the bolt trying to force it on last night. I think it’s the flange on the diff. But, I’m not sure. I think the car is still safe to drive without it, but I don’t know. I suppose I should fix it sooner or later.

 

Here's a video to show you guys. You might have to make it full screen. It’s a pretty crappy video, but I was to lazy to jack my car up all the way when I made this video.

Edited May 14, 2014 by Dittmer