brakes Rear Drum Brake Adjuster

[oclee118]

Tried the search but couldn't find anything on rear drum break adjuster.

 

I've done brakes on many different cars, but couldn't see how to adjust the rear brakes shoes on my 1976 02'. Do they have star wheel adjusters? If it is, any images or videos? 

 

Thanks,

O.C.

 

[Conserv]

Original Owner's handbook. Everyone should have one: provides instructions and a photo. The original toolkit came with a bent-end wrench specifically for the rear brake adjustment. Today, however, you may find the bolts difficult to turn, even with the factory wrench!

 

Get some PB Blaster on those bolts, but make certain it does not reach the linings!

 

Good luck,

 

Steve

 

[Simeon]

If your adjustment bolt heads aren't already gnarled up then I suggest soakingthem in penetrating oil and removing the drums first. This will allow you to grip them from the inside with a set of mole grip pliers. This will allow you to break them free of the inevitable rust before you try and turn them with an open spanner (and thus make them gnarly). Once they are free to turn easily then you can adjust the brakes. 

 

The reason Steve pointed you to the bent spanner in the tool kit, is because the brakes are supposed to be adjusted with the wheel fitted as this clamps the drums in the right place. Wind each adjuster in until the wheel locks and then back off until just free to turn. A few minor 'catches' as it rotates can be ignored. 

 

If you don't have a bent spanner then you can adjust without the wheel but you need to rig up some kind of spacers (pipe and washers?) To allow the lug nuts alone to pull the drums into place. Obviously you need to consider the lack of turning moment available without the wheel fitted and how much rotation effort is needed to lock up /rotate the hub. 

 

Take a look at this thread:

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/64789-rear-drum-brake-adjustment/

Edited June 22, 2014 by Simeon

['76mintgrün'02]

I know it is a little cheesey, but I made a plywood 'spacer' to tighten the drum in place while adjusting the brakes.  This eliminates the need for a special wrench and the extra length provides leverage while turning the drum.

 

 

It took a fair bit of heating with a torch to get my drums off the first time I did this.  I used a little anti-seize on the mating surfaces upon reassembly.  I also had to heat the adjusters to free them up.  I used two wrenches at the same time to adjust them, which made it easier to figure out which way to turn the adjusters.  I have forgotten now, but I think I pulled down on both wrenches to tighten... that, or the opposite.

 

 

[Hans]

Very ingenious bit of wood working,Mintgrun. Be prepared to cycle through heat, penetrating oil to get them loose.  i put a dab of anti-seize on adjusters.

[OriginalOwner]

Mint,

 

no cheese, that is FANTASTIC !!!!!!  I've always "hated" adjusting the brakes because the lack of clearance with the wheel in place always got me a few dinged knuckles.  THAT is the slickest idea !!!

 

This is a very timely tech tip as I'm currently working up the energy to install new brake shoes and just thinking about adjusting has been an energy drain.  I'm reenergized !!  Thanks Much !! 

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Edited June 22, 2014 by OriginalOwner

['76mintgrün'02]

wow, I appreciate the enthusiasm.  I was embarrassed to post the idea, back when I did it, even though it worked slick.  

 

There was something very satisfying about a wrench in each hand while adjusting.

[John_in_VA]

You could put the wheel & tire on backwards to get more clearance to adjust the shoes, unless you have very wide tires.

[OriginalOwner]

John,

 

Another great idea !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   Thanks Much !!  

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

[M3M3]

i don't use any spacers or wood or reversed wheels.

 

just hold the drum on, rotate it to check tension, pull off, adjust, put back on, repeat.  simple process.

[oclee118]

Thank you every one. Another problem solve.

 

O.C.

Thank you every one. Another problem solve.

 

O.C.

[TobyB]

 

just hold the drum on, rotate it to check tension, pull off, adjust, put back on, repeat.  simple process.

...and then have them lock because the shoes have not centered up just right.

Marshall, I can tell you've never raced with rear drums.  And for that, I envy you.  Significantly.

 

My version was to use a 13mm and a 14mm wrench under the nuts to hold the drum on.  They made nice

handles too.

Works fine, and you have the wrenches there anyway.

 

OP, all the stock 'adjuster' does is hold the shoe close to the drum,

and the spring in the cylinder keeps the pistons at the shoes.

Stupid simple.

And if they didn't rust up, it would be a good design.

 

t

[M3M3]

Actually did track my 02 with drum brakes in rear for two years. Adjusted shoes every track day per the way I described. Never had an issue......the drum centers itself on the hub.

['76mintgrün'02]

just hold the drum on, rotate it to check tension, pull off, adjust, put back on, repeat.  simple process

 

Am I to understand that you adjust while the drum is off?

 

I have only done this once, mind you, but my drums have a ridge due to wear, which would not allow the removal of a properly adjusted set of shoes without backing them off a little.

 

It is a very simple process.  That much I agree with.

 

I am surprised to hear that you'd take 'short cuts' on something as important as brakes!  Seems out of character...

 

It was a minor hassle to make a wooden 'tool', but it removed the uncertainty of a loosely fit drum.  The downside is that now I am storing that piece of wood.  I think I will let it go away and use Toby's 'double wrench trick' next time.

 

EDIT:  I wish I had a flame suit.

Edited June 23, 2014 by '76Mintgrun'02

[OriginalOwner]

I am also liking Toby's 2-wrench method.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl