engine and drivetrain Timing...something Doesn't Make Sense Here

[ray_]

Daron has a Sun advance machine.

 

['76mintgrün'02]

Good points Toby (as usual).  I call what I did a "rebuild", but in reality, I took it apart to clean and lubricate it, shimmed the vertical play with a washer 'kit' and put it back together... hoping for the best.  I tested in the car, with a light and called it close enough to 'right'.  

 

I can see where it would get pretty frustrating to be pulling it back out and taking it apart to try different weights and springs, to find the appropriate combination/curve.  Having the parts to work with 'on hand' would be difficult, at best.  

 

I am happy enough with what I have/did, but I will climb down off this rickety soap box.  

 

Jeff at Advanced Distributors is the expert... with a well deserved reputation.  

[bruno615]

Excellent description, Rob. 

 

Honestly, I'm very surprised that there isn't already a Tech Article on basic Ignition Timing...arguably THE most important factor on proper engine tuning and one question that is constantly being addressed on the main discussion page.

 

Ed

 

Gentlemen, thanks for clearing up a lot of my questions.  I totally agree with the above statement (even search didn't clear things up), and am glad to see I'm not the only one that feels this way.  I'll see if I can at least snap some photos when I take this on.

 

Mike

[M3M3]

Honestly, I'm very surprised that there isn't already a Tech Article on basic Ignition Timing...arguably THE most important factor on proper engine tuning and one question that is constantly being addressed on the main discussion page.

 

Ed

there are lots of good instructive threads on how to set timing.  put "how to set timing" in the search box and hit google search.  here is one one, there are many more.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/124816-using-an-advance-timing-light/

 

anyone is welcome to put together the info into an article.  this is a self help board. the tech articles don't write themselves....

[eurotrash]

Www.123ignitionusa.com

[saaron]

I had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced...it was $200.  Thank God for people like Jeff.  My car, which has always run well, runs even better.  The set up Eurotrash has is pretty cool if you like to really dig in.  

 

Scott

[zinz]

Be our guest!

 

anyone is welcome to put together the info into an article. this is a self help board. the tech articles don't write themselves....

 

Looks like I've stepped off into it, haven't I?  Ok, let me see what I can put together. 

 

Ed Z

[bruno615]

I found TDC and marked it, as well as the Pulley.  I like pictures, so I took some, hope they help someone else. (The album of slightly higher resolution photos is here: http://imgur.com/a/B8wso#YOw0INg

 

I could not figure out the method described by Rob, so I popped the valve cover off and watched the lobe for cylinder 1.  I turned cam to the point just after the intake valve closed, and then inched the car forward from there.  

 

This is the head at TDC (note I have an aggressive cam, so yours might look different)

 

 

On my way to TDC, I found the Z ball, which I marked with some whiteout (note: the brush is just BARELY long enough).  

 

 

A full 24 degrees later, I found the OT mark and marked that as well.

 

 

From there, I looked down at the pulley and found a notch on it.  It was harder to see the indicator (on the right), but you have to just look from the correct angle.

 

 

As you can see, I got whiteout everywhere the first time around.  (Pretty sure it's already been rubbed away)

 

Timing this thing is SOOOOOO much easier now.  I retarded it a bit, but it's still pretty advanced (set to 24 degrees at 1500 rpm).  Seems to not want to retard much more than that, as I start getting spitting from the sidedrafts.  I definitely picked up some torque, and the car screams at the high end, but could be better down low.  

 

I've got some fiddling to do, but currently I can't get the idle to decrease below 1500 RPM (and the car is pretty rough below 1500rpm).  I've already set the carb sync set screw with a volumeter, but will try again.  I think I'll also double check the float level.  Any other suggestions are appreciated.

[Guest_anonymous]

Stupid question, where the fu*k is your oiler bar over the cam?

[AceAndrew]

Stupid question, where the fu*k is your oiler bar over the cam?

 

Generally pretty aggresive race cams are hollow and internally lubricated, meaning you no longer run a sprayer bar (see that little oiling hole on the lowside of the cam lobe?)

[Guest_anonymous]

Thx for the correction

[Buckeye]

Is the dizzy rotor pointing to the notch on dizzy housing When engine is set at TDC?

What's gap for dizzy point? Can you check dwell with meter and post it?

[bruno615]

The car has a pertronix unit.  - Do I measure the gap the same way as points?

 

Ordered a dwell meter - should have soon.

[Buckeye]

I read in your initial thread that dizzy is mechanical. Assumed it has point then. I have no knowledge of Pentronix unit and to check dwell.

[Hans]

As suggested above, if you have a pointer pin on the front of the engine, you may find it easier to see the mark there. You'd need to paint on a new mark on the pulley. I used a plastic container lid to transpose 24 and 33 deg. marks to existing TDC mark on the pulley. There is a school of thought that supports setting max advance, which if memory serves, means getting full advance (33 deg or so) by 3000 rpm. This is easier than looking for that darn ball. Haynes manual has several advance settings for the ball.