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Roof Drip Rail Substitute


schoir

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Has anyone come up with a substitute for the metal "chrome" roof drip rail that is NOT made of metal.  

 

Although the originals are not prohibitively expensive  (part # 51135450112) , my lifelong aversion to rust is causing me to try to find a cosmetically acceptable substitute.  It would be nice to be able to remove and replace this section of molding on occasion to make sure no rust is forming after I complete my restoration project.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by schoir
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Drip rails are aluminum and still available. Just bought one for $59. If there is rust, check under the drip rail, maybe you have a problem there where the seam is.

73' Tii (new project) #6

68' GT4 "Track car"

69' 2002 RIP (my 1st.)

74' 2002 (Voted Best Modified BMW

So.Cal. Vintage 2011)

76' 2002

07' Escalade ESV (the money maker)

05' Ford Escort (the Beater)

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The drip rail should be sealed and painted to keep it rust- free. 

The factory only did an average job of it, and many 'refinishers'

don't even do that well.  Seam seal it, prime and paint it, and if

you're careful putting on the trim, it won't rust under there.

 

Short of shaving it off and rewelding the roof right to the car

(several have done it) I think the stock way looks best, and

if you take the time, works well.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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On a side note, my drip rail saved me a bunch of body work recently in the Napa earthquake. Very stout they are as four beveled mirror closet doors (quite heavy) tipped over onto my car all at once. The door that impacted the drip rail shattered. Thankfully the broken glass stayed intact and no contact was made to body and paint. And thanks to that little rain gutter there's not a mark on my car. I was very lucky in this quake, my friend's car hopped three feet sideways and slammed into his garage wall and every motorcycle in town fell over but mine (a roll of carpet prevented it from going over). Probably shoulda bought a lottery ticket that day.

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2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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Sorry, but that will look like shit.  Original part is not expensive considering what you pay for other parts. Unfortunately, shippers fuck it up most of the time. Buy from a BMW dealer so you can get insurance/replacement if it arrives with dents and blemishes. 

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There is no substitute for the proper rain gutter trim.

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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Did I read somewhere that there is a tool for properly crimping the trim on?

 

FAQ section has an article by Duke Rimmer showing his use of some welding Vise Grips.

 

I've tried installing new trim on the 69 but cannot seem to get the proper installation technique.   It pains me to get it started then have to pull it back off and see the scratches in the paint.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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FAQ section has an article by Duke Rimmer showing his use of some welding Vise Grips.

 

I've tried installing new trim on the 69 but cannot seem to get the proper installation technique.   It pains me to get it started then have to pull it back off and see the scratches in the paint.

 

Thought I read a thread on here where they installed the trim by using a wood block and a hammer. Starting on the windshield side putting the top edge on then using the wood block and a hammer or rubber mallet tap the trim on.

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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based on having tried the stuff, the door edge moulding won't work due to the shape of the metal...because it works by friction attachment, it tends to pop up...on my 76 i did however use the stuff many are now using for beltline trim but in the 1/4 inch wide size...just stuck it to the surface of the drip rail...it works for me

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Maurice - I agree.  It will look awful, especially with the quality of work you are putting into the restoration.

 

Why don't you talk to your body work source and see what he suggests for welding/seam sealing the seam and leaving it without chrome trim?

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