steering and suspension Front Strut Removal Issues

[Lochness]

Hello members of my new favorite car forum,

 

I am in the process of replacing some of the suspension parts on my 1970 2002.  My main issue is that I am unable to get the front struts to clear the fenders so they can be replaced.  I have tried to follow information from here as well as a few other places.  

 

I have removed the end links, compressed the springs, and the three bolts attached to the top of the strut.  I have not loosened the center nut on the upper strut mount and it appears that this mount is still way above the compressed spring.  Is this the source of my issues (typing and reading more articles at the same time)?  

 

Are post 9 and 10 here pointing in the right direction?  

 

Any assistance would be very helpful to me.  I'll post some pictures of my situation when I get home today.  

 

Thanks,

 

Nate 

[Stevenc22]

I dont remember having a problem removing the struts. I did undo the 3 bolts at the bottom of the strut which attach to the ball joint so the strut was completely free at the bottom. I dont even think i needed a spring compressor, with the bottom loose, the strut slide right down.

Edited October 7, 2014 by Stevenc22

[Napes]

If I read your post correctly it appears you needed to loosen/remove the top nut on the strut before doing any of the other things.  With weight on the front wheels an air wrench makes this job a snap. 

 

Bob Napier

[TobyB]

Easiest and most thorough is to unhook the bottom of the strut from the car.

3 bolts on the perimeter, 3 bolts on ball joint, or even pull the whole arm as a unit, it all works.

If you unbolt the brake caliper and the line support, you can hang them off to the side

out of harm's way and not have to open the brake system.

 

If you compress and remove the spring, then you can usually get the strut to

come out from under the fender withe everything still attached.

  I've had to unhook the sway bar to get this to work,

and if your lower arm is bent, sometimes it doesn't work.

But the brake lines aren't long enough to allow the strut to come out very far- easier

to remove caliper and line support, as above, so you don't wreck 'em.

 

hth

 

t

[Buckeye]

Are the ball joints fasten to control arm by revits or bolt and nuts? You may want to detach balljoint from control arm then push control arm down a bit then slide strut assembly bottom out first. You may need to detach pitman arm from tie rod first.

[Lochness]

Thanks everyone for the quick response.   Somehow I missed the three lower bolts on the strut.  After that things went quite smoothly.  

 

Buckeye, we are pretty close; I'm just south of you in Upper Arlington.  I would love to see your wonderful 2002 when the weather gets nicer.

 

Toby, thanks for the information.  I wonder if you know the car I'm currently working on.  I picked it up from a guy in Seattle last spring.  

[TobyB]

Probably not- it's a big town, here, for a fishing village...

 

t

[Buckeye]

@lochness - sounds good. Let me know if I can be any further help.

[chargin]

Hello All,

Just a small input about the spring compressor tool. I bought one of the big cool scissor compressors only to find it didn't work in place. I went back to the old $14.00 double style, here's the tip:

 

Take your double compressor to a hardware store and buy 4 nuts and 2 washers that fit onto the threaded shafts. You can tighten them together to form a locked nut at the bottom, now you just tighten the compressor from below with a 1/2" ratchet.

 

I found this out yesterday replacing my strut bearings. 

 

Happy Motoring

[Lochness]

Thanks for the advice.  I was able to get everything off and new parts are on the way.  

[Hans]

I have managed to get the strut out from under the fender, but it requires two people and a 2x4 to pry down on the control arm. One to pry, one to ease strut top under fender lip. Remove sway bar, calliper as I recall. Eliminates need to coax rusty ball joint bolts out.

[Lochness]

I have managed to get the strut out from under the fender, but it requires two people and a 2x4 to pry down on the control arm. One to pry, one to ease strut top under fender lip. Remove sway bar, calliper as I recall. Eliminates need to coax rusty ball joint bolts out.

 

Wow.  Unfortunately I did not have an extra set of hands.  Unfortunately removing the front struts just to clean the wheel wells has cost me a lot of money.  

 

Oh those end links don't look great, let's replace them.  While I'm down here I could change out the way bar for a bigger one.  Those bushing look wore, while I'm getting these other suspension pieces I should get those too; hey the shipping for those will be free.  Well the springs and shocks are off too, let's get new ones.  OK the front should be good; let's do the rear at the same time.  Damn it 

[Hans]

scope creep  - a common ailment on an old car. More of a problem with on line ordering, two day delivery and free shipping over $75.