other Another One Of Those Clutch Problem Threads..

[luismpr]

Soooo yea.. Im having issues with this clutch. Its a stock sachs unit. Here's a little back ground story. I basically put another trans in because I ruined the previous one. So while in there I replaced clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing,and decided it would a good time to upgrade to a steel braided line from Rogers tii. Clutch pedal was fine before everything. So I put everything in along with my resurfaced flywheel and then proceeded to attempt to bleed the clutch. No luck

I operated the screw, My buddy operated the pedal. The pedal never got firm or anything remotely close to the word firm. The bleed screw when open and the pedal pressed, would leak fluid ,not through the bleed screw itself but from around it. I have closed it and pressed the pedal and nothing has changed. Will not engage in any gear even though I can see the piston pushing the fork. I don't know what to do with this . any suggestions? PS I have searched and searched and read and haven't found a solution

[stone02]

Hi,

 the piston has to move 17mm to completely

release the clutch. did you reuse the slave 

cylinder? when you bought the clutch, did it 

come as a kit or separate parts ordered at the

same time. if you have a clutch from a late model

car and you used an early throw out bearing it 

is the wrong one. may be round up the boxes and

post the part numbers. the clutch slave and clutch

master are nearly self bleeding if you just let 

fluid run through them both. alot of pumping

done the wrong way can make more bubbles 

than fluid in the parts. let it sit for the night then

lift the front of the car so the tires do not touch

the ground and try to let it fill and dribble for 

10 seconds. that should fix it.

good luck,

stone

[luismpr]

Hi,

the piston has to move 17mm to completely

release the clutch. did you reuse the slave

cylinder? when you bought the clutch, did it

come as a kit or separate parts ordered at the

same time. if you have a clutch from a late model

car and you used an early throw out bearing it

is the wrong one. may be round up the boxes and

post the part numbers. the clutch slave and clutch

master are nearly self bleeding if you just let

fluid run through them both. alot of pumping

done the wrong way can make more bubbles

than fluid in the parts. let it sit for the night then

lift the front of the car so the tires do not touch

the ground and try to let it fill and dribble for

10 seconds. that should fix it.

good luck,

stone

Everything came as a kit. 215mm for my 76. Kit included TOB pilot bearing clutch disc and pressure plate.and hmm OK I might have to give that a shot

[peterschop]

You didn't mention replacing the slave so I'm guessing you reused what you had. Sounds to me like the bleeder valve is clogged. Remove the bleeder and clean out the passage hole then try to bleed. Fluid should come out the hole when open.

[luismpr]

So here's an update. I replaced both the slave and master cylinder. Bled the system. And it still won't go into gear. Now last Thursday I was able to get it to go into gear. And the following morning I went to drive it only to see that it wasn't going into gear again. So I assumed there was an internal leak and replaced both cylinders. And still nothing.I turned the car off and put it in first while it was off.turned it on only to hear a nasty grinding noise(gears ) so I yanked it out. Anyone have any suggestions or advice?

Everything in the clutch hydraulic system is new. Has new TOB new pilot bearing new clutch disc and resurfaced flywheel. Now I'm leaning towards the flywheel. If too much was taken off the flywheel,that means that the clutch disc and pressure plate would be farther away from the TOB. So could that be the issue? Wouldn't make sense though because I was able to get it into gear while idling last week.

[TobyB]

Bleed the clutch hydraulics again.  The system should have plenty of extra travel for a surfaced flywheel...

 

...now, you should be able to START in gear- the car will roll off, but it shouldn't grind...

 

hmmm

 

 

t

[jimk]

Yes the bleed nipple is DOWN on the slave?

[luismpr]

TobyB- exactly my thougt.should be able to start it in gear but that did not go well even though last week after bleeding the clutch for ever it was able to start in gear.

Jimk- yes the bleed nipple is down on the slave. I have a stainless steel line so I can pretty much only orient it one way. Slave line around 1 2 o'clock and the nipple down around 6.

I guess I'll try and bleed it again.this is ridiculous. How do you guys and gals bleed your slave?

[Danz3]

I replaced both the master and slave with a stainless line in between.  I bled the system by having someone slowly push the pedal while I opened and closed the bleed nipple.  Pretty standard bleed procedure.  I will say that my clutch still engages pretty close to the floor.  I can't imaging that there is still air in the system but gear engagement/disengagement hasn't been an issue like you describe.

[peterschop]

I did a reverse bleed when I put in my new master and 320 slave. I filled an oil can with brake fluid, attached a hose to the slave and pumped the fluid in till it came out of the reservoir. One time is all it took and my clutch works good.

[Hans]

perhaps put the old hose back on if it worked. Are we talking 4 or 5 speed here?

[luismpr]

That's the same way I bled mine multiple times . and i can't try the Old line because it's cut.

And it's a 4 speed g232

[M3M3]

is the pivot arm properly situated on the pivot bearing?

 

are you certain the "new" tranny is good?

 

and curious....how did you break the old tranny?

[Danz3]

I just read the original post again. You said no fluid goes through the nipple just around it. Could it be as simple as a bad or plugged nipple? I know that sounds simple but why not take a look.

[peterschop]

+1 on what Danz3 said. As in my original post said, " Remove the bleeder and clean out the passage hole then try to bleed. Fluid should come out the hole when open." If fluid is coming out of the threads then the lines are clear but the bleeder is clogged.