engine and drivetrain Rough running, low idle, and questions

[esty]

the dizzy only has one vacuum port that connects to the bottom of the carb

 

 

 

[Stevenc22]

^ Actually his dizzy looks like a Vacuum advance/retard distributor with 2 vacuum nipples. One for advance and one for retard. The advance should be connected to the carb and the retard should be plugged.

[pisgahlvr]

That's right Steve my dizzy has two nipples. One has a vacuum line going to the port on the carb. The other one has nothing connected to it

*edit I'm not sure which nipple is for advance and which nipple is for retard

Edited December 31, 2014 by pisgahlvr

[Mark92131]

Lot's of good information here.  The white hose connected to the diaphram on your distributor is the advance port and should be connected to the port on your carb in Esty's picture.  To test it's operation, you can suck on the white hose and the points plate should move, if it doesn't you won't get full advance and the diaphram will need replacing.  The retard port on the diaphram is on the under side and should be capped as Stephenc22 points out.  There are two ports to plug on your intake manifold, the one under your fuel pump and the one plugged with the chalk cap.  The last one to plug is the port on the intake manifold directly under the port on the carb as 76Mintgrun02 and others have pointed out.  Once you have sorted out the vacuum leaks and connections, tested the plug wires, and have the dwell and timing set, you can work on getting the Weber carb, cleaned and adjusted.

 

Good luck,

 

 

Mark

[pisgahlvr]

Lot's of good information here.  The white hose connected to the diaphram on your distributor is the advance port and should be connected to the port on your carb in Esty's picture.  To test it's operation, you can suck on the white hose and the points plate should move, if it doesn't you won't get full advance and the diaphram will need replacing.  The retard port on the diaphram is on the under side and should be capped as Stephenc22 points out.  There are two ports to plug on your intake manifold, the one under your fuel pump and the one plugged with the chalk cap.  The last one to plug is the port on the intake manifold directly under the port on the carb as 76Mintgrun02 and others have pointed out.  Once you have sorted out the vacuum leaks and connections, tested the plug wires, and have the dwell and timing set, you can work on getting the Weber carb, cleaned and adjusted.

 

Good luck,

 

 

Mark

 

Hey Mark, 

 

Ok, so the two ports in the manifold are plugged. The port on the carb itself is also plugged. The retard port on the diaphram is NOT plugged and I need to find some tubing to plug it with. I disconnected the white vacuum hose and sucked on it. I observed the points plate move SLIGHTLY, like maybe a couple of millimeters. Should it move more freely than that? Or perhaps I'm not sucking hard enough? I felt like I was sucking pretty hard though. At this point I'm thinking I should replace the points plate, or even the entire distributor? 

[Mike Self]

When you suck on the vacuum advance hose, the point plate will only move a few mm, because that represents about an 18-20 degree advance when considering a 360 degree circle.  

 

Didja replace that piece of cloth-covered fuel hose between the fuel filter and the carb?  That hose is on the suction side of the fuel pump, and mechanical pumps need a vacuum to operate properly.  If that hose is cracked--or even porous the pump will suck more air than fuel and the engine will be starved for gas--the same symptom as too much air like from a vacuum leak.  I had a similar length of cloth-covered hose on my '69 that looked just fine on the outside and didn't leak fuel, but was so porous the fuel pump wouldn't pump fuel and the engine died.  Took me a few minutes to figure out the problem, but a new 6" length of fuel line solved the problem.

 

cheers

 

mike

[pisgahlvr]

When you suck on the vacuum advance hose, the point plate will only move a few mm, because that represents about an 18-20 degree advance when considering a 360 degree circle.  

 

Didja replace that piece of cloth-covered fuel hose between the fuel filter and the carb?  That hose is on the suction side of the fuel pump, and mechanical pumps need a vacuum to operate properly.  If that hose is cracked--or even porous the pump will suck more air than fuel and the engine will be starved for gas--the same symptom as too much air like from a vacuum leak.  I had a similar length of cloth-covered hose on my '69 that looked just fine on the outside and didn't leak fuel, but was so porous the fuel pump wouldn't pump fuel and the engine died.  Took me a few minutes to figure out the problem, but a new 6" length of fuel line solved the problem.

 

cheers

 

mike

 

Thanks Mike, 

 

I haven't changed any hoses yet. Main reason is because I'm trying to locate a good source for new hoses. Would be nice to find a BMW 2002 engine bay hose refresh kit of some sort. Can you recommend a good place to get some replacement hoses from? Should I just go to auto zone and get the OEM hoses? 

 

*edit* I did buy a set of spare vacuum hose from rogerstii.com. That seems to be a really good source for hard to find OEM parts. 

 

*edit 2* I found some 6mm ID x 12mm OD smooth rubber hose on rogerstii.com. I think that will fit the bill to replace that section of cloth hose. 

Edited January 2, 2015 by pisgahlvr

[Mark92131]

pisgahlvr:

 

The port on the carb, (in esty's picture), should be connected to the distributor advance diaphram port (what you were sucking on).  There should be a port directly under the carb port on the intake manifold which needs to be plugged, so a total of 3 on the intake manifold.  Plug the retard port on the distributor and you should be good to go.  The points plate doesn't move much, but because it does move, shows that your diaphram is working correctly.  The non mechanical distributors use a combination of weights and vacuum to provide the advance, so even if the diaphram was bad, you would still get some advance as the motor revs.

 

Here's a link to the vacuum caps I used on my car.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman-Products/326/85609/10002/-1

 

Have fun,

 

 

Mark92131

[Hans]

6mm or 8mm fuel hose is available at your local auto parts store. Also check piece in trunk to tank.

[pisgahlvr]

I picked up some vacuum plugs from advance auto. They fit the bill and I got everything plugged up properly including the retard port on the distributor. I took out the spark plugs and tried to turn the engine to TDC so I can check the timing and the points gap. I can't find the mark on the crank shaft pulley. Plus I have the car up on jacks and thought I could maybe just put it in gear and turn the rear wheels to get the crank to turn over to TDC. Any ideas on getting it to turn while it's up on jacks? I also tried to spin it by turning the cooling fan, but alas, it's slipping under the belt. 

 

I also got a section of new hose from advance auto and changed out the cloth covered section of the fuel hose and put a couple of hose clamps on it while I was at it. 

 

I have new plug wires and a fuel filter coming.