body and interior Heater valve options?

[jrhone]

I think I may have a bad heater valve. What are some options other than the BMW valve for replacing it? I looked through the daw and there was one from a 70s international jeep. Any others?

[M3M3]

Rebuild the one you have. Blunt sells a kit for this. Cheap and easy. There is an article on how to do it.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/_/technical-articles/body-and-interior/how-to-rebuild-a-heater-valve-r118

Edited January 15, 2015 by mlytle

[SydneyTii]

+1 on the kit it's excellent.

[KFunk]

I wouldn't say the kit is cheap by any means....  

 

I got a couple o-rings from the local hardware store for less than a buck to seal it up, and for the broken plastic peg inside I drilled it out and epoxied a nail in place, and its worked fine for a couple years.  Make sure you get properly sized o-rings for both sides of the valve (or you'll be back in there again).  I used some silicone grease on them for good measure.  

[JohnS]

I've used two of the kits from Blunt, but found that the smaller of the two seals was a bit too thin and leaked a little bit when I bench tested the valves before installing them.  My solution was to buy some better seals (made of a better type of material and slightly thicker) and use those seals instead.  Otherwise, the kit works great.  Much smoother operation when compared with the stock valve internal parts.  Both of my tiis have been using the rebuilt valves for a while without any issues.  I'll provide the information on the seals and where you can get them when I return home.  They're cheap and available and can be used to repair a valve using the stock internal parts too.  The best part of the kit is the stainless steel shaft and bolt (far superior to the plastic type shafts). 

 

Cheers,

John

Edited January 15, 2015 by JohnS

[adawil2002]

I had my original heater valve replaced when I redid the cooling system. I fail to understand why people want a kluge fix instead of doing a rebuild or replacing with the correct part. It's not like it's a $1300 part.

[M3M3]

I've used two of the kits from Blunt, but found that the smaller of the two seals was a bit too thin and leaked a little bit when I bench tested the valves before installing them.  My solution was to buy some better seals (made of a better type of material and slightly thicker) and use those seals instead.  Otherwise, the kit works great.  Much smoother operation when compared with the stock valve internal parts.  Both of my tiis have been using the rebuilt valves for a while without any issues.  I'll provide the information on the seals and where you can get them when I return home.  They're cheap and available and can be used to repair a valve using the stock internal parts too.  The best part of the kit is the stainless steel shaft and bolt (far superior to the plastic type shafts). 

 

Cheers,

John

Please add the seal info to the heater rebuild article when you get it. Thanks!

Ps - my rebuilt valve with the blunt kit does not leak at all.

Andrew - concur.

[roadhog0]

This. Its cheap and works I hear. But when you want heat, you gotta get outta the car 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

I had my original heater valve replaced when I redid the cooling system. I fail to understand why people want a kluge fix instead of doing a rebuild or replacing with the correct part. It's not like it's a $1300 part.

 

 

Kluge: use ill-assorted parts to make (something).

This implies that it will be a shitty-fix.

 

I understand what you are saying, but it has to do with a person's 'budget'  

The time/money equation is different for everyone.

 

It also has to do with a person's skill set and tooling.

There is the sense of satisfaction that comes from making/fixing stuff yourself.

Personally, that is something I celebrate when the opportunity arises.

 

Kits are just parts someone else made/assembled.

Convenient?  Yes.  

Cheap?  That depend$.

 

(I am just attempting to explain why I 'liked' Kfunk's post.  It's good to see people think outside the box in this throw-away society we live in)

Edited January 15, 2015 by '76Mintgrun'02

[jrhone]

I had my original heater valve replaced when I redid the cooling system. I fail to understand why people want a kluge fix instead of doing a rebuild or replacing with the correct part. It's not like it's a $1300 part.

 

Thanks for your opinion…The reason I was asking was that others are selling a simple valve like this for $20.  BMW is selling this one for $350.  No reason not to ask if there is an alternative that works.  NOT a kluge.  For example, BMW sunroof cables, expensive.  Volvo sunroof cables, cheap.  Both are exactly the same made by Golde.  Its not a $1300 part, but what if there was a Mercedes part that was identical and $100..would you still buy the $350 BMW one?

Rebuild the one you have. Blunt sells a kit for this. Cheap and easy. There is an article on how to do it.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/_/technical-articles/body-and-interior/how-to-rebuild-a-heater-valve-r118

 

Thanks for the info…just looked it up on Blunts website.

[chargin]

Sorry to Hi-Jack the thread but please explain this: Volvo sunroof cables, cheap

 

What cables are these from?

[jrhone]

Sorry to Hi-Jack the thread but please explain this: Volvo sunroof cables, cheap

What cables are these from?

Volvo 240

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/102770-cheap-and-better-sunroof-cables-volvo-240/

[JohnS]

Please add the seal info to the heater rebuild article when you get it. Thanks!

Ps - my rebuilt valve with the blunt kit does not leak at all.

Andrew - concur.

 

Hi Marshall,

  When I bench tested the heater valves that I rebuilt using the heater valve rebuilt kit from Blunt using the original seals that came with the kit, I was using air pressure to test for leaks on the valve.  They both leaked air around the shaft, so only the smaller of the two seals was leaking.  I have a test harness that I use for testing my heater cores where I pump it up with 10 psi of air and then see if it holds pressure (overnight).  The same rebuilt valve probably wouldn't have leaked anti-freeze when installed on a car.  I was picky and wanted it to hold air, so installed different seals.  I was is no way DIS-ing Blunt's kit.  I think it's awesome. 

 

I ordered the new seals from: www.theoringstore.com

 

I ordered seals made of V75 Viton after reading about that material's properties on the store's website.

 

The small seal is 2mm x 8mm V75 Viton O-ring Black  Model: V2.00X008 -- (2mm thick, 8mm inner diameter)

 

The large seal is 1.5mm x 31mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V1.50X31 -- (1.5mm thick, 31mm inner diameter)

 

I believe that the smaller seal in the Blunt kit is 1mm x 8mm -- (1mm thick, 8mm inner diameter, not sure of the material it's made of)

 

That's it.

 

Pressure Test Harness:

 

 

 

Cap off the valve side:

 

 

Does it hold pressure? I even would open and close the valve a couple times too.  No leaks with the new seals...

 

 

Cheers,

John

Edited January 16, 2015 by JohnS

[M3M3]

Great info John. Thanks for posting your process!

And thanks for putting the seal info in the heater rebuild thread.

[jgerock]

Good stuff here- improvising on a common problem is why I like this site. I believe Walloth Nesch sells all brass later heater valves (Not plastic). I replaced the o rings in my early heater valve with hardware store versions - I may change to Viton for more durability.

At least you can still buy new later valves and repair kits for them. Not so with the early valves.

Be careful with the PVC valves, there are different configurations and materials available so make sure you choose one rated for high temperatures or use a brass ball valve (or a more expensive full port ball valve).