brakes Rear brake adjuster fit

[JohnH]

My rear brake adjuster eccentrics have rusted solid. I've sprayed them with a release fluid to help free them up.

 

 

While I'm waiting for that to happen, it occurs to me that I dont know how tight/loose these things should be, so the question is, if you had a brand new backing plate with adjusters, without any shoes attached; 

1. how tight are they? Finger tight? Wrist tight?

2. I take it they are an interference fit, so what is applying the interference? A spring?

3. Is lubricating them such a good idea? Wont this make them back off due to vibration etc?

 

Any insights would be much appreciated.

[jgerock]

The adjuster bolts should be a "tight turn" fit.  Hard to describe.  Keep soaking and turning with a wrench - the bent 17mm combination wrench from the tool kit is meant for using on these adjusters.

 

[Napes]

This tutorial contains useful info, including an answer to your question, about the entire brake adjust procedure. Following it will give you the best brake adjustment.

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/rearbrakes.html

Bob Napier

[Danz3]

I am having the same issue with my rear adjusters.  I was going to replace the brake shoes in the rear of my 74 tii but found that 3 of 4 adjusters are hopelessly frozen.  I will continue to try to break them loose as spring is finally here in NY and I want to get the car on the road.  If I can't break them loose I need to replace the backing plates.  Is there any risk in removing the hub and replacing it without replacing any seals etc?  I don't want to make a bad situation worse.

[peterschop]

Luckily I didn't have this problem on my car but if I did, I would try a little heat. With the shoes and hardware removed, heat the adjuster from the front with Mapp gas until it red. Tap it a few times with a hammer and then quench with a wet rag that you pull out of a bucket of water. Then try turning with a pair of vice-grips on the front and a 17mm wrench on the back. Oh, make sure you have a working fire extinguisher with in reach.

[Danz3]

Tried propane with no luck. Odds of loosening 3 of 4 doesn't look good. I'll keep trying but am likely going to have to replace the backing plates.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[peterschop]

Tried propane with no luck. Odds of loosening 3 of 4 doesn't look good. I'll keep trying but am likely going to have to replace the backing plates.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Propane isn't hot enough Get a bottle of Mapp in the yellow can.

[xferboy]

I had a similar issue.

 

heated,

 

sprayed penetrating fluid on when hot (not red, orange or yellow) test before to make sure it doesn't burn  (fire extinguisher in arms reach)

 

repeat,

 

intermix vice grips on tight (newer the better) and smack the handle of vice grips with a hammer

 

Left some marks on the big parts, but that doesn't get used. 

 

Finally got it.

[Danz3]

2002 one owner 0.  Worked last night on the adjusters.  Pretty mangled now with no sign of giving up.  Looks like replacement plates.  See WTB ad in classifieds. 

[peterschop]

Well you can still buy a new one from BMW for about a C-note.

[wegweiser]

I did a little "How To" on my facebook page. Hopefully the album is viewable. 

 

https://www.facebook.com/paul.wegweiser/media_set?set=a.10202378192114520.1073741828.1184315012&type=3

[JohnS]

New backing plates are still available from BMW (~$50 each).  If you decide to replace them, then you'll have to undo the "bitch" nut and also pull the hubs.  I did that on my '74 tii a couple of months ago because the adjusters were all buggered up. 

 

 

BRAKE CARRIER LEFT 34 21 1 101 750

BRAKE CARRIER RIGHT 34 21 1 101 751

 

Good luck,

John

Edited April 10, 2015 by JohnS

[JohnS]

2002 one owner 0.  Worked last night on the adjusters.  Pretty mangled now with no sign of giving up.  Looks like replacement plates.  See WTB ad in classifieds. 

Danz,

  Let me look in my stash of old parts.  I might have some used stock (230mm) backing plates that are functional.  If so, I'll send them to you for the price of shipping.  Will look tomorrow and post a pic of what I find.  I'd go with new ones if I was going through the trouble of replacing them though.  It was a PITA, at least for me.

John

Edited April 11, 2015 by JohnS

[xferboy]

Let it sit for a day, and take another run at it tomorrow.  

 

Rumor is, half acetone, half ATF is a crazy good penetrating fluid.  Just don't get it on you (wear gloves), the acetone breaks the atf down small enough it will absorb into your skin.... O_o

[JohnH]

I'm remiss in not replying to the original respondents. Apologies.

 

I found that the only way I could free up the adjusters was to grab them with some vise-grips (on the inside of the brake, not the hex s) after soaking them with a release agent for several days. They were still locked solid. The grips chewed up the adjuster a bit, but after striking them with a BFH a few times they broke loose, albeit still tight. more release agent and finally some copper based grease has them turning reasonable well.

 

On a more positive not I freed up the brake cylinders;

 

 

I took some measurements in the hope that I could find an alternative to the pricey bmw components, £5 for a mk1 Golf versus £40 for a tii.

 

I could not remove the rear hub with the tools at my disposal, so left it on, which in turn makes the simple task of refitting the W spring difficult. I found the best way way to hold one end with a g-clamp, hook the middle over and then pull the other end back with a pair of pliers. Just what you need when your backs playing up, only one knee is working to 50% efficiency and you discover that you've now got arthritis in your hands.

 

 

On another note, why is it that you always get every tool you own into play even on the simplest of tasks?

 

 

There are others out of shot!

 

As always the faq proves to be an invaluable resource, the spanner trick in particular deserves mention.