engine and drivetrain How to remove frozen brake lines, what I learned

[Chester]

+1 on getting a quality flare nut wrench - snap on seems to make the best though I have been using an old 7/16" MAC (7/16" is a tight 11mm) for years and it has never let me down. 

 

Most other flare nut wrenches spread like a $2 ho and will leave you feeling shame and remorse...  much like a $2 ho.

['76mintgrün'02]

I did not feel any shame nor remorse for cutting a slot and a slit in this cheap-o wrench.

Once I put the squeeze on, I like to tap on the vice grips with a tiny hammer.

The shock helps break them free.

It works pretty well, but I will still buy a pair of Peter's Pliers.

 

[peterschop]

The wrench with the slot in it and vice-grips could work but I think it would be difficult to find the room to use them.

[jerry]

+1 on getting a quality flare nut wrench - snap on seems to make the best though I have been using an old 7/16" MAC (7/16" is a tight 11mm) for years and it has never let me down. 

 

Most other flare nut wrenches spread like a $2 ho and will leave you feeling shame and remorse...  much like a $2 ho.

this seems like a lesson some of us have to learn, unfortunately (the wrench that is).  i too started out with a craftsman flared wrench and in return, was treated to rounded lines.  the cost of the one Snap-on wrench equaled the entire Craftsman set and it has never failed me.  looking at the difference, the Craftsman wrench has chamfered edges which lesson the contact surface.  other than this wrench, i have no issues with Craftsman tools.

[Chester]

this seems like a lesson some of us have to learn, unfortunately (the wrench that is).  i too started out with a craftsman flared wrench and in return, was treated to rounded lines.  the cost of the one Snap-on wrench equaled the entire Craftsman set and it has never failed me.  looking at the difference, the Craftsman wrench has chamfered edges which lesson the contact surface.  other than this wrench, i have no issues with Craftsman tools.

I agree - especially the vintage craftsman tools - I made a good living for a long time with Craftsman tools...

[4wheelforay]

In the rear, and in the front for that matter, chances are that your rubber lines have swelled shut. I would suggest removing the rubber section of the line/hose and using a deep well socket to remove the end.

 

-Robert

[RAS-2002]

Okay, after I used peterschop's Magi-Tool (ViseGrip 4LW) on my front and rear hard lines, I no problems breaking them free and putting the new lines. Foolish me; I thought I'd be home-free on the rest of the hardlines. That is, till I crawled underneath 'Schatzi' and realized the rear-to-front line is tucked "way the frig up there", nicely hidden and ensconced under the driveshaft and rear exhaust pipe. Gotta drop both of 'em before I can access that brass junction connector. Dang! And there I was, figuring a cake-walk of a repair job.  I completely forgot to multiply the estimated hours for repair times 8...!!!  I'll never learn. Oh, and did I mention how freakin cold it still is in NY??? Moving to a warmer, more southern clime seems more tempting every day.

-Bob