other Reviving the tii after five years hibernation.

['76mintgrün'02]

I want those rubber caps!  How would I source them?

 

 

Those caps were also used on vintage VW generators. 

 

https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/misc-electrical-boots-grommets/boot-generator-terminal-113971901-a

 

 

Thank you for the response John.  I think I will settle for an off brand on the rubber rebuild bits, but I like the idea of using the matching original calipers.  Too many stories of mis-matched rebuilt units for me to want to go that route. 

 

I appreciate all the photos.  Seeing is believing... worth a thousand words... it was generous of you to take the time to share the process in such detail.

[Conserv]

In post #1, OP stated:I had a few E28 looms lying around and and harvested the wires and rubber caps that fit over the pump terminals.

So, John....you're suggesting that we actually have to READ the thread? Aren't the photos sufficient? :-)

Regards,

Steve

[PaulTWinterton]

So, John....you're suggesting that we actually have to READ the thread? Aren't the photos sufficient? :-)

 

RE: E28 loom.  I did read, although I do LOVE to look at pictures first.  Must be from childhood.

 

I called my favorite wrecker and he thinks he has what I need.  Good excuse to drive the car.

[jgerock]

 

 

Those caps were also used on vintage VW generators. 

 

https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/misc-electrical-boots-grommets/boot-generator-terminal-113971901-a

 

 

Thank you for the response John.  I think I will settle for an off brand on the rubber rebuild bits, but I like the idea of using the matching original calipers.  Too many stories of mis-matched rebuilt units for me to want to go that route. 

 

I appreciate all the photos.  Seeing is believing... worth a thousand words... it was generous of you to take the time to share the process in such detail.

 

IIRC, the fuel injected VW Type 3 (68+ Fastback, Squareback) used similar rubber boots on the electric fuel pump. There was another discussion here amongst tii owners needing a special right angle rubber boot for the thermo-time sensor on the coolant neck.  Some folks just use old spark plug ends.

['76mintgrün'02]

Some folks just use old spark plug ends.

 

Some folks just cut off a little piece of hose... (because I got tired of bumping it with a wrench).  

I will make something similar for the starter terminal.

 

 

I can understand wanting to use the right boot.  The ones in the link above are less than three dollars each.  

 

I've  re-used vw ones, but they are old and hard and often mis-shaped.  I did not want to cut the terminal off the end of the wire to put a boot on, so the hose-bit fit just fine.

 

Sorry for the digression, but bumping into hot leads takes bites out of tools.  Worthwhile topic IMO.

[peterschop]

 

 

Sorry for the digression, but bumping into hot leads takes bites out of tools.  Worthwhile topic IMO.

 

Exciting too!

[JohnH]

I want those rubber caps!  How would I source them?

 

As John in VA pointed out, I got mine off an E28 loom. These sort of things are often difficult to find, but you know factories in China are churning them out and they are going somewhere. Here in the UK we are fortunate to have several auto wiring suppliers specializing in older vehicles. If you do an ebay.com search for "Rubber Terminal Covers" this should point you to several items listed by jccraceandrally. They seem to have similar though not identical covers to the ones I used. Hope this helps.

[JohnH]

Sorry for the digression, but bumping into hot leads takes bites out of tools.  Worthwhile topic IMO.

No problemo, its good to talk. All ideas and suggestions are welcome. 

 

Okay, my brake seal kits turned up. They are not genuine ATE, rather they are kits to fit ATE calipers, if you follow! Anyway I have no hesitation using them as BiggRed are a well known and reputable firm. In my haste to purchase I didnt realise that each kit has parts for TWO calipers, so I've ended up with a spare set, ready for the next rebuild in twenty years time!

 

Heres a pic of the kit;

 

 

It looks very good to me, and as you can see also includes the internal square sided o-rings.

 

I love the funky bleeding caps!

 

I spoke with Mr Bigg and asked him if he would send kits to the US, and he told me he exported world wide and had sent kits to Russia, Indonesia and even Uzbekistan. I was impressed, Uzbekistan!. He also said postage was £9.80 worldwide. No I'm not on commission, only trying to do my bit for the UK economy.

 

Heres the kit details and business card;

 

 

The website is a bit funky so you need to access it using this full address http://www.biggred.co.uk/catalogue.php. You pay via paypal to your financial details are safe(ish).

 

Anyway I'm now going to go ahead and split the calipers, treat the rust using sophisticated electrical means. More details to follow. Stay posted.

Edited May 1, 2015 by JohnH

['76mintgrün'02]

More great information.  Thank you.

 

I went to their site and typed the make and model, but the '76 model year did not come up.

Not to worry though, as there are options in the US as well.  I was impressed that you'd found ATE parts, but I see that other brands will work just fine.  I have found a big difference in price, from $8 per side, to $24 per side and wonder if there is a significant difference in quality in such a simple kit.  The ones I have seen do not include the elusive square sided o-rings though.

 

Your "sophisticated electrical means" of removing rust interests me.  I have been using electrolysis to clean things up as well.  I filled a larger container, so I could hang a tii manifold and now want an even deeper 'bucket'.  The results of the process are incredible.  If only I could dip my whole car!   

 

Just yesterday I hung another batch of rusty tools in mine.  I made an aluminum 'cathode hanger', which will dangle eleven pieces in the solution ('this one goes up to eleven').  I believe the electricity consumption is about the same whether there is one piece hanging, or many; so I try and put a bunch in at once.  People often throw tools and such away once they get rusty.  Sometimes they will try a wire wheel to clean things up, but that usually burnishes the rust into a shiny rough surface.  Electrolysis dissolves it away, leaving a wonderfully clean surface. 

 

I was using baking soda as the electrolyte, but finally put some in the oven and baked it for an hour at 200 degrees which turns the sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate.  It does in fact work better.  I am on my way to the shop now to rinse the rust off of yesterday's batch of tools.  Feels like Christmas morning : )

 

(this is one of my favorite soap boxes to stand on)

 

I look forward to seeing your set up!  

[02Les]

Bloody MOT's i remember them well, shudders!!!!

Oh Yeah, me too.

The US could ease its traffic congested cities by using the UK's MOT.

[JohnH]

Oh Yeah, me too.

The US could ease its traffic congested cities by using the UK's MOT.

 

These days I take the pragmatic view that I'm getting a useful professional appraisal of my vehicle. Maintaining friendly contact with ones tester seems to pay dividends. My guy likes older cars and I dont object when he takes them for a quick road test whilst returning the car to its designated MOT testing car park! 

 

Right, cracking on. Well cracking calipers actually, not really cracking them, rather splitting them; 

 

 

One should never underestimate the usefulness of a vice. Having vices is good! One, temporarily bolted to a Black and Decker Workmate can work well and is also portable. You dont need a big workshop is own and use one.  

 

Splitting these calipers is a bit like removing a head. You need to relieve clamping forces gently and in sequence, so start by cracking the inner two nuts, just a tad until you feel/hear movement, then the outer two, then repeat the sequence a flat at a time until they are all free. You will need a hard to find Torx T35 bit to hold/lock the bolt head still and an 14mm socket to attack the bolts.

 

Heres a pic of the tools I used;

 

 

STOP its not a T35, its a Ribes

 

The T35 came from an impact driver set, Draper 59001 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Torx-PZ-Phillips-Impact-Driver-Screwdriver-Insert-Bit-Set-8mm-12-Pc-59001-/380336590530?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item588dd3cec2 and the socket is of the surface drive variety. I didnt want to mangle those nuts.

 

The bolt is an M9x1.0 (This is wrong, its an M9x1.25) but has no other markings on it. The bolt has an 8 on it, so its safe to assume is just a standard metric class 8 locking nut and bolt.

 

I only cracked these calipers because I want to treat the rust in the cylinder above the seal.

 

 

You beat me to it Minty! Electrolysis is a wonderful thing. I find it also de-paints things as well and apart from hydrogen embritlement it has no downsides, so dont use it on high tensile components like bolts. Heres my advanced setup;

 

 

 

Soda Crystals are the key. A couple of tablespoons full will do. 

 

This is my trusty and aged battery charger. As you can see the caliper in solution is drawing about two amps. This is good. When the artifact being de-rusted accidentally touches the sacrificial lumps of steel the amps shoot up as its shorted. A cautionary tale, I hooked it all up and left the Garage for a moment, only to come back and find that old trusty was allowing its smoke to escape. Keep an eye on these things. So on to setup #2.

 

 

Heres the first half;

 

 

 

Still a few bits and bobs to remove. Its useful to take the object out of the solution after a couple of hours and give it a good scrub with a stainless brush to remove any loose bits. This isnt a fast process and could take a day or so to treat a complex shape. Its line of sight process, so it pays to move the object around every so often. Its kind of therapeutic.  

 

Just got to do the other three halves and we will be into painting and reassembly. 

 

Edit - I thought it was a Torx T35, but my eyes let me down. Its a Ribes.Not sure what size, but the T35 was a bit loose. In fact I snapped it!!!

Edited May 5, 2015 by JohnH

[JohnH]

A bit of an update. Its acttually a Ribes R6 bit. I came across this excellent site http://www.pmbperformance.com/brakehowto.html You chaps probably already know about it. I was particularly interested in the tightening torque figures used, which confimes that these are indeed class 8.8 bolts and 8 nuts.

 

Heres a pic of the markings on the nut;

 

 

The upper marking as an F, for the nut manufacturer and the lower marking is 8 G, though the G is a bit indistinct. I believe that Class markings of this style are to German DIN standards and have been replaced by ISO standards, based upon the DIN standards, sometime in the late '70s early '80s.

 

Electical derusting has been completed and the caliper halves have been sprayed with POR Metal Prep (or whatever its called today);

 

 

 

I'm going to paint these calipers with Hammerite Antique Gold, as is my custom. The first step is to mask up any areas that we dont want paint applied to, I then apply two coats of under coat and let them dry overnight;

 

 

I'll paint  these up today, ready for caliper reassembly tomorrow. Stay tuned! 

[PaulTWinterton]

Cool!  Por 15 Metal Prep is powerful stuff.  Only used it once and I didn't think about going straight to primer.  Went to POR 15 Coating.  Not necessary on these parts.

 

Waiting for your next installment...

Edited May 5, 2015 by PaulTWinterton

[JohnH]

A quick taster for you Paul, Gold.

 

 

and heres the other hardware getting prepped;

 

 

A quick dose of POR paint Strip to remove extraneous paint, then Metal Prep, and then I will brass brush them and paint the heads and nuts so they look like the original black oxide finish. 

 

Paul, re your comments about Metal Prep. Heres some Volvo calipers and carriers. I always use POR Metal Prep, then POR15 Gloss black and finally a coat of Chassis Black on the carriers. They come out okay.

 

 

Metal Preps funny stuff. Under some circumstances it seems to promote flash rusting. You can see some in the caliper bores. Not to worry however, as a quick rub over with some wire wool and a wipe over again with Metal Prep and it will be gone. 

[PaulTWinterton]

Under some circumstances it seems to promote flash rusting.

Yes, they say to coat soon after using Metal Prep. Your gold looks great. My most recent calipers were originally a gold finish, which I clearcoated. Didn't last worth a damn. I clean them with brake cleaner, but they still look dirty.