Behr AC Parts Wanted

[SkidMarc]

Hello,

 

I am in the process of restoring my car, and would like to resurrect its Behr AC unit. I have the head unit (needs rebuilding), but the PO dumped the rest of the components. Specifically, I'm looking for hoses, condenser, Senden compressor, and dryer. PM me the part(s) you have and your asking price to include shipping to Maryland 20769. 

 

Thanks!

 

Marc

[Conserv]

Marc,

 

Have you read some of the lengthy threads on this forum about re-using '02 A/C systems? Rob Siegel (a.k.a., thehackmechanic), a frequent contributor to these threads, devotes an entire chapter to '02 A/C in his book: Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic. If you haven't already, you really should read these items!

 

For instance, don't re-use 40-year-old hoses and a 40-year-old drier. And your choice of hoses may be different whether you're using R-12 or R-134a. And, of course, your choice of a new expansion valve for your evaporator will depend on whether you're using R-12 or R-134a.

 

If you're a crazy nut, you'll want to use the original Behr condenser and condenser fan -- I am a crazy nut. Otherwise you'll want something more modern, especially if you're moving to R-134a. But space is very tight!

 

The original compressor was a reciprocating York compressor.  It, and its corresponding compressor mount, are considerably heavier and less efficient than a Sanden rotary compressor. But you must find one of hobiedave's mounts for that Sanden!

 

In short, if you already have the Behr evaporator/blower, the console fascia pieces, the wiring, and the crankshaft pulley, you might have all the Behr parts you need already. Everything else you need might be modern and/or aftermarket. Unless, of course, you really like the look of that antique Behr condenser and fan!

 

I'm assuming you've already downloaded the full Behr installation instructions and parts listing from the tii register Website. These give you a good sense of what you might have and what you might be missing!

 

Good luck. It's all do-able!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Edited January 1, 2018 by Conserv

[SkidMarc]

Steve,

 

Thanks for the sage advice. You make very good points regarding the use of more modern component and would love to do so.  I  do have the Senden mount and the head unit.  I'll look into my options.

 

Cheers,

Marc

[wegweiser]

Hey Marc!

 

     I have a very nice set of Behr A/C side panels. I was asking $60-70 for the pair, but make me a reasonable offer and they're yours!

 

I don't have the small round grilles for them, but otherwise, they are in very good condition.

e  mail: zenwrenchpaul@yahoo dot com

[m-tuner]

I have behr a/c units for the interior everything else can be sourced from  ice in san deigo, or hancock industries abilene tx.    Bruce M-tuner

[hawkgm]

I just went through this.  Suggestions, including advice from AC expert I know:

• Suggest not using old Sanden compressor; new ones (though Chinese built) are available on ebay for reasonable price.  If using original compressor, drain its mineral oil into a measuring cup, then add same amount of PAG or Ester
• Use the original evaporator and condenser. They are made of copper and last forever.  Replace the expansion valve as it's not worth keeping the old one in since you don't know its condition (mine was filled with crud) and it's cheap.  Just be careful when installing with copper washers (they can slip and leak if not seated properly before tightening)
• Get new hoses and convert to o-ring connectors if going R134a.  Kits are available and are not expensive.  Got mine for less than $100. Flare joint connectors should be used on evaporator and condenser only.  Use o-ring adapters to extend the length to make mating easier, especially to the evaporator in the dash.  Only hand tighten o-ring connectors first, then apply wrenches and tighten 1/4 turn.  Otherwise the O-ring can bind and the connection will leak.
• Dryer bottle should come with the hose kit, but if not a new one costs less than $20. Save the electric pressure switch from the old dryer bottle as it can be reused.
• Get a crimping tool kit (ebay for example) to make your new hoses and crimp connectors to your exact lengths.  They are not very expensive.  Consider getting carbon fiber wrap to insulate all your hoses once you install.  That will keep them from being exposed to the hot exhaust and engine temperatures. Cheap and easy to install with plastic ties.
• Check shape of idler pulley if you desire to retain the existing bracket and not go to hobbiedave setup.  A new idler pulley is around $20 so it's worth replacing. Mark position with paint or scribe to make reinstall easier. 
• Clean/blow out evaporator and condenser.  Decide whether to convert to PAG totally or Ester which is compatible with old mineral oil.  I decided to go to Ester just in case some mineral oil might have remained in the compressor and evaporator.
• I kept the existing fan after removing to dismantle the evaporator.  The brackets are strong, and no mod are required.
• After all the install is made and connections are checked and tight, go to a local AC shop to have the system evacuated, check for leaks, and have it filled with proper amount of coolant.  My job cost $150.

Total cost of new compressor, hoses, connectors, tools, idler, oil, evacuation/fill, and other miscellaneous came to just over $500

[m-tuner]

I have been building and repairing bmw ac systems for 40 + years, I have converted R-12 systems to 134a , and I don't recommend it, loss of cold air, incompatibility of materials, r-12 used copper and brass, 134a uses aluminum, 134a is not as efficient a gas as r12,  use a rotary compressor the newer ones are variable output control, use a newer fan with curved blades, enlarge the radiator, the stock will not be enough.  can't get r-12 you can get all you want on craigslist or e-bay. if you are doing it contact me I have a/c suppliers that have the parts .   Bruce M-tuner