electrical and ignition starting issues

[larryt]

hi all,

 

so having fixed a few problems i had with my 1600, im happy with it now so its time to start "polishing" up the bits that were a semi-perm fix. Firstly my issues with it starting..

 

so i have replaced near enough every part of the ignition system (dizzy,cap,rotor,coil,leads,plugs,starter,wiring). i am currently seeing a problem with the time it takes for it to 'fire up'.

 

if i leave the car for more than a few hours, when i return to it, it takes me a good 30sec-1min to get it to start, it cranks over very strong and once its started it will often die off again straight away.

 

i did replace my fuel pump recently, and the lines and filters etc.. but it seems that the fuel is taking a long time to be pumped into the carb, can someone suggest a remedy for this? could i fit a non-return valve in the line or will this create a air lock? could i shave a 1mm off my fuel pump spacer to achieve more 'pump' from the fuel pump?

 

thanks

Laurence

[esty]

what carb are you running...did you check float level

[larryt]

what carb are you running...did you check float level

 

the original carb which i have recon'd. i might have a pin hole in the float which could be causing the float chamber to lose its level. i will check that tomorrow.

 

any other ideas?

[Simeon]

If you had a hole in your float you would have more fuel than you would know what to do with.

You did not mention points in your list of ignition components. Have you set the timing with a light?

Do you have a fuel return valve at your carb with a vacuum line?

[larryt]

If you had a hole in your float you would have more fuel than you would know what to do with.

You did not mention points in your list of ignition components. Have you set the timing with a light?

Do you have a fuel return valve at your carb with a vacuum line?

 

i forgot to mention that the entire dizzy was recon'd including the points and weights (i will be replacing this with a 123 soon)

 

i have timing set correctly using a light and the car idles really nicely and runs really nicely once it is warmed up, its just the issue of the starting.

 

i do not have a fuel return at the carb with a vacuum line as far as im aware...

[Stevenc22]

Make sure the choke is set correctly with the right spring tension. I had hard starting problems and motor cutting out on me due to an incorrectly set choke.

[Guy Cocquyt]

Do you have any fuel leaks or smell gas when your car is in the garage? If so you could have a leak in your fuel line which makes it difficult for the pump to create initial lift to pull fuel from the tank but it eventually creates enough siphon pressure after turning over for while. You could disconnect the fuel line down stream of your pump, and with a friend cranking it over, hold a container under the disconnected hose and see if you are getting sufficidnt gas from thd tank.

Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk

[fwardell]

Hey, I'm having similar problems. My '76 with Weber 38/38 carb and manual choke starts great when cold or cool; however, when hot and sitting for more then about ten minutes, it takes a while to start and then catches with a puff of light gray smoke, and  runs rough for a minute or two with a gas smell. Otherwise, runs great! The carb is new, so it's floats should be good, but I need to check them. I removed the fuel return line some time back. Do you think that could be causing overly high fuel pressure which causes fuel to leak into the intake manifold when hot and sitting? It has the original fuel pump, which has worked just fine in the past.

[Hans]

Two causes of slow starting when hot:

-vapor lock in the fuel supply to pump, often caused by having the line/filter too close to the head/motor.

-air leak in line to pump. If original hose in trunk or from firewall to pump, replace it. Check that plastic sleeve is still on tank sender outlet pipe and not cracked.