electrical and ignition Firing order indicator on distributor

[Hans]

The distributor needs be installed initially so that #1 fires at TDC, when #1 cyl is in the firing position( both valves closed/cam lobes up). So the rotor needs be under #1 on the cap, since it only goes on in one place. The distributor can basically be turned 360 deg, and still function, but is designed so wires and vacuum line exit towards firewall - give or take. So you need to use trial and error to drop dist. into place so that rotor points more or less towards coil, then move body around to get #1 wire over rotor tip. If that lines up with notch, fine. That should get engine started, at which point you set point gap/dwell and then do timing with timing light.

['76mintgrün'02]

When I installed a stock vacuum advance distributor in my car, I initially put the vac pod on the carb side.

That position put the points at the back, towards the firewall, making it difficult to adjust them.

I pulled the distributor again and rotated it so the pod is on the opposite side, which makes the points much more accessible.

 

Kingsborne makes nice plug wires.  You can test yours by attaching your timing light to each one and watching the light for misses.  I had a new set of Bremi wires that came with two bad ones.  I was able to find the problem using my light.

[flagoworld]

Thanks for the insight. I was able to verify firing order was correct.

 

Bumm, struggling to figure out this very rough idle!

[ray_]

Post a plugs pic...

[flagoworld]

This is what I get for running on an irreparable carb for just a short while...

 

 

Note that the liquid is oil from when i attempted to squirt a little down the cyls. Missed and got some on the threads.

[ray_]

There's your problem! You're missing 3 plugs!

 

Also gas fouled....

[flagoworld]

Yeeaaah, I could never get the old crappy solex adjusted right. It did a number on the plugs.

 

Actually, I kind of wonder if my float level is too high, now... *checks*

[flagoworld]

Yeah even though I think I previously did not have the float level adjusted correctly, I believe it is now and no difference. Muuuust be ignition.................. You think my plugs might be "too fouled"?

[ray_]

One of them.

 

 

Spend $8 more and find out

 

[flagoworld]

Can you recommend some plugs for me? IIRC a while back someone said that the ones I bought are not the best.

[ray_]

NGK BP6-ES I think...

[flagoworld]

Oh this is fun, guys! I just received my new wires and put them on - no change. Decided that there was nowhere else to look but the distributor... I put 'er in TDC and checked the point gap... 0.024!!!! Oops. So, I adjusted the point gap as best I could to .016 and VOILA! She runs much, much smoother.

 

Now I could do the timing... Whoops! It appeared to have been advanced by 30°... Something fishy, because I'm pretty sure that rotor was lined up with cyl1 wire at TDC. So, I retarded the ignition down to the 0° mark. RPMs dropped a little and engine sounded lower pitched. Still running.

 

I tried giving her a little gas, and every time I punch the gas a little she starts to stall. This is a symptom I have not really looked into before. Can anyone think of anything obvious?

[Simeon]

Not sure I understand your timing method. Are you shooting for the ball (25 degrees BTDC) at 1400 or max advance at 3000? Vac disconnected?

[flagoworld]

Well, here's what I am trying to do:

 

1.) Disconnect vacuum line and plug hole in carb - attached it to a vacuum gauge.

2.) Set my timing at ~TDC mark

3.) Advance timing until it runs smoother

4.) Attempt to advance to ball on flywheel

 

Not sure if it's because I can't see the ball on the flywheel or if I am unable to advance it far enough. Before I can see it, it starts running like crap and misfiring

 

I was doing this at around 1100RPM... There's not enough idle screw to get it up to 1400, unfortunately, so I figured as the timing advanced to ideal it would speed up a bit. Maybe the idle screw is just extra short.

 

Last thing, even when I advance it as far as I can while it still runs smooth, pressing gas causes it to want to stall. Do you think my point gap is too small now or something?

[ray_]

Meh, don't bother with a vacuum gauge there -- just leave that port open for the time being.

 

That said, I'd advance the timing with the car off, to a point where you hear the motor labor when being cranked, and then retard it until it cranks smoothly while starting. Drive it under load. if it pings retard it some more.

 

...But I'm crude