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Hi everyone, has anyone updated their stock alternator to the BNR 95 amp high output alternator. I talked to them and they said it has an internal regulator and all I would have to do is to cut one wire to do the upgrade. If anyone has done this upgrade have, you kept your old voltage regulator? What are the pros and cons? Thank you for your time.

If you don't drive it hard, give it to someone who will!

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I have no personal experience with them, but I sure have read a lot of threads about them.

The one that comes to mind was  BNR   Basically Not Reliable... or something like that.

 

I just typed BNR in the search window and checked 'Google' from the drop down menu.

These results came up 

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/index.php?s=7abdff026c3442d795516153f0e67ac5&app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=BNR

 

(I don't mean to be antisocial, just trying to be helpful)

   

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I had a BNR 90 amp alt. I kept my voltage regulator...in a box with other junk I don't need.

I've since upgraded to a Bosch 90Amp alternator from an 84-85 318i. Best thing about it is the adjusting nut. Adjusting the belt is a piece of cake.

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- Project 67' 1600-2

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Great easy mod. Try the search for complete install instructions, also if I recall the voltage regulator is removed and tossed in your neighbors pool.

FO 2573825

1971 2002, 5-OD, Recaro SE, BBK, 90Amp Alt, Turbines, VDO, Hellas, BD belts, LED Tails, 10 Foot DD

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I've had a BNR high output alternator for the last 5 years. Worked great for me. The install was a snap following the basic instructions on Zenon Holt's site for the wiring but just bolting in to the stock location. You can use the 320 or 325 alternator but need to swap out the mounting bracket and I didn't have the patience to collect the parts. Either way, the upgraded alternators are internally regulated and you won't need the separate/external voltage regulator any longer.

Rob S
'69 2002; '04 330i ZHP; 2018 X1; 2014 535i; 2017 340i

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Another option is a GM one-wire alternator.  Look it up on the internet and you see many suppliers.  They are about $70 for a 100+ amp unit and they are extremely popular as well as reliable.  Finding one with the right mounting ears should be easy too.

 

Jose

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I've had a BNR high output alternator for the last 5 years. Worked great for me. 

I too have been using a couple of BNR high output alternators for a number of years without any issues.  I'm weird and removed the internal regulators on mine and replaced them with other brush units so that I could keep using the external regulator and still get the higher AMP output.  But, like I say, I'm weird.  External regulators work very well IMO.

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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Hmmm without reliving the whole of the Basically Not Reliable thread - is the position that BNR are currently poor in terms of quality but have been excellent Vs are variable in quality and you could get a good one or a bad one.

Who is a good supplier for an AL41X? Blunt?

  • Like 1

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Can any of you post a pic of what your post voltage regulator removal looks like? Did you just tape the wires up and out of the way? Remove them from the loom?

There is only one wire in the loom. The harness from the regulator to the alternator has three wires and a plastic plug at each end. Simply remove and throw away. However, one is a blue wire which exits the loom at the regulator, just extend it to reach the new single wire alt to the D+ terminal, it goes to the warning light in dash.

Edited by HBChris

HBChris

`73 3.0CS Chamonix, `69 2000 NK Atlantik

`70 2800 Polaris, `79 528i Chamonix

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I did an alternator upgrade years ago by visiting the local 'creaky-wood-floor' old rebuilder, selected a Ford motorcraft 90 amp after consulting with the guy because of the similarity in mounting lugs.  Required a few washers for spacing, and a new electronic regulator, external, to make it work.  And boy did it work!  Bench tested at over 100 amps.

 

As you might guess, I had an extra dozen or so lights operating, along with an electric cooling fan, electric fuel pump, cruise control, stereo 100W amplifier, and plenty other accessories.  The extra amps were vital.  I think I paid $70 back in the day (circa 1988).

Andy the tail light guy says "Be Seen, and Not Hurt!"  [mailto:mobrighta@comcast.net]

Lighting Upgrades for E3, E9, E10, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39 - front & back
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I am putting my house up for sale. I need to move. I keep fishing out a bunch of burned voltage regulators out of my pool....

Edited by Vicleonardo1

Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty and  springs an occasional leak.  Just like me. 

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  • 6 years later...
On 12/4/2015 at 9:50 AM, MoBrighta said:

I did an alternator upgrade years ago by visiting the local 'creaky-wood-floor' old rebuilder, selected a Ford motorcraft 90 amp after consulting with the guy because of the similarity in mounting lugs.  Required a few washers for spacing, and a new electronic regulator, external, to make it work.  And boy did it work!  Bench tested at over 100 amps.

 

As you might guess, I had an extra dozen or so lights operating, along with an electric cooling fan, electric fuel pump, cruise control, stereo 100W amplifier, and plenty other accessories.  The extra amps were vital.  I think I paid $70 back in the day (circa 1988).

Hey MoBrighta, I’m curious about this Ford alternator you mentioned and what’s required for a regulator. 
Thanks!

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