electrical and ignition BNR 95amp high output alternator

[Lorin]

Don’t forget to ensure that your alternator charge wire is sized appropriately for amperage capacity of a new higher amp alternator. 
 

Nobody likes electrical fires.  

[MoBrighta]

3 hours ago, sczapiga said:

Hey MoBrighta, I’m curious about this Ford alternator you mentioned and what’s required for a regulator. 
Thanks!

Hey, I'll try to recall my methods; it's been quite a while...

 

I have been a tinkerer without fear for many years; my motivation for this conversion was the added electrical demand on the system.  I did this to handle quite a few mods, listed above.

 

I picked the 'Motorcraft' brand based on two factors:  1, amperage, and 2, mounting lugs arrangement.  With a clear picture of the mounting lugs and wiring connections, I went to counter in an old-school auto electric rebuilder and had a chat with the counter guy, who knew only one question--  "Whats the year, make and model?"  I explained that I wanted a 12 Volt Alternator to go into a car, and he wasn't prepared for that, so he got the old geezer from the back to help me.

 

The Geezer was more curious, and recommended the Motorcraft as it was about the same size as the Bosch, and was so common that about any regulator would work with it.  I just asked for a 100 amp regulator at the parts counter at another store, told them it was a Ford, and they handed me an 'electronic voltage regulator' that worked fine.

 

I had an adjuster welded up from two used 2002 belt tension adjuster arms, because the tension lug was further away from the block.  It just needed to reach around further than the original.  That and a few washers here and there to align the alternator and crank pulleys, and voila!

 

As you know, a 2002 has plenty of room under the hood for stuff, and an alternator is just a thing that makes amps at a certain voltage when you turn it.  I did not care it wasn't a 'factory specified part' - I just took the Mad Max approach and it worked like a charm. 

 

Hope this answers your questions; If it's TMI, I apologize.

 

[cda951]

9 hours ago, Lorin said:

Don’t forget to ensure that your alternator charge wire is sized appropriately for amperage capacity of a new higher amp alternator. 
 

Nobody likes electrical fires.  

 

Yes, this AND the ground cable to the engine block (or body) because the M10 engine uses alternator mount bushings. Downstream of the main B+ alternator cable, the individual branches of the electrical system (whether aftermarket lamps or stereo or the factory wiring) should be sufficient to carry their individual loads. Use relays, they work!!

 

I suppose this is also a good time to mention that any alternator only outputs the necessary current to supply the actual load demanded by the electrical system---i.e. a 100A alternator is not constantly pumping out 100A. Nonetheless, the wiring needs to be sufficient to support the load of your six driving lights and bumping stereo, all while the wipers and A/C are running :).

[sczapiga]

17 hours ago, MoBrighta said:

Hey, I'll try to recall my methods; it's been quite a while...

 

I have been a tinkerer without fear for many years; my motivation for this conversion was the added electrical demand on the system.  I did this to handle quite a few mods, listed above.

 

I picked the 'Motorcraft' brand based on two factors:  1, amperage, and 2, mounting lugs arrangement.  With a clear picture of the mounting lugs and wiring connections, I went to counter in an old-school auto electric rebuilder and had a chat with the counter guy, who knew only one question--  "Whats the year, make and model?"  I explained that I wanted a 12 Volt Alternator to go into a car, and he wasn't prepared for that, so he got the old geezer from the back to help me.

 

The Geezer was more curious, and recommended the Motorcraft as it was about the same size as the Bosch, and was so common that about any regulator would work with it.  I just asked for a 100 amp regulator at the parts counter at another store, told them it was a Ford, and they handed me an 'electronic voltage regulator' that worked fine.

 

I had an adjuster welded up from two used 2002 belt tension adjuster arms, because the tension lug was further away from the block.  It just needed to reach around further than the original.  That and a few washers here and there to align the alternator and crank pulleys, and voila!

 

As you know, a 2002 has plenty of room under the hood for stuff, and an alternator is just a thing that makes amps at a certain voltage when you turn it.  I did not care it wasn't a 'factory specified part' - I just took the Mad Max approach and it worked like a charm. 

 

Hope this answers your questions; If it's TMI, I apologize.

 

Not TMI:) that was a perfectly thorough explanation and very helpful. My plan is to run 2 PIAA 80 driving and 2 spots as well as have the extra amperage on hand for maybe a efi system at some point. 
 

I’m excited to find a different option than the obvious e30 alternator. I’m going to pull mine out and do some measuring. Jegs has a Ford 1 wire 100 amp for sale that has an internal regulator and it has a proper technical drawing with measurements. 
 

/images/mini_100/500/555/555-10165.jpg

JEGS 10165: Ford 1-Wire Alternator | 100 amp Output | Single Groove V-Belt Pulley with Cooling Fan without Baffle | Natural Finish - JEGS High Performance

WWW.JEGS.COM

---

Buy JEGS 10165 at JEGS: JEGS Ford 1-Wire Alternator, 100 amp Output with V-Belt Pulley [Natural Finish]...

 

I’m going to compare and maybe try that one. Any danger to using the internal regulator? I’m not overly familiar with their purpose. 
 

Thanks!

[MoBrighta]

Internal or external, the regulator is the 'lion-tamer' that controls the amps and volts.  It converts the rotating energy from the engine via a fan belt, then there's 'magic' that happens by virtue of the rotating magnetic field and windings within the alternator, which turns it into the 'regulated' electrical energy that feeds the system and the battery.  It does not matter where it is physically located, just that it is in the electrical path and does the job.

 

You might want to be sure your battery is in good shape, no use introducing an unknown into the experiment!  Of course, you'll be sure to get the wiring up to snuff as well. The wiring harness is a NO SMOKING area!

 

Good luck!

Edited May 13, 2022 by MoBrighta

[chargin]

I've used 2 (1 Base & 1 Tii) about 4 years on the Tii without issue  

 

+

 

[sczapiga]

8 minutes ago, MoBrighta said:

You might want to be sure your battery is in good shape, no use introducing an unknown into the experiment! 

Understood, thank you. I’m running a red top Optima that’s about 6 months old. With this upgrade I’m planning on running new wiring for the alternator, battery and headlights. I’m going to relay the headlights and of course aux lights. 

[sczapiga]

1 minute ago, chargin said:

I've used 2 (1 Base & 1 Tii) about 4 years on the Tii without issue  

 

+

 

When you say 2, are you referring to the alternator I linked from Jegs or the BNR? 

[MoBrighta]

32 minutes ago, sczapiga said:

Understood, thank you. I’m running a red top Optima that’s about 6 months old. With this upgrade I’m planning on running new wiring for the alternator, battery and headlights. I’m going to relay the headlights and of course aux lights. 

Same battery I ran - mine lasted 14 years (we should all be so lucky).

 

Headlight wire suggestion - use new terminals where possible, the wire is not usually the weak link. It's the connectors, same as where most collisions occur at intersections, not on straight roads. 

I have the sizes to fit H1, H3 & H4 bulbs perfectly, male and female, if you need new.

[sczapiga]

1 hour ago, MoBrighta said:

Same battery I ran - mine lasted 14 years (we should all be so lucky).

 

Headlight wire suggestion - use new terminals where possible, the wire is not usually the weak link. It's the connectors, same as where most collisions occur at intersections, not on straight roads. 

I have the sizes to fit H1, H3 & H4 bulbs perfectly, male and female, if you need new.

Got it:) I think a conversation is in store. I’ll PM ya when I get my alternator. 
thanks!

[Son of Marty]

When you get to wiring things up be sure to take the main power to the lights off the battery, if you were to take it off the alternator you'll have some trace ac voltage in the line that "leaks" across the diode bridge which will lead to vastly reduced bulb life.

[chargin]

On 5/13/2022 at 9:30 AM, sczapiga said:

When you say 2, are you referring to the alternator I linked from Jegs or the BNR? 

Yes 2 from BNR, first one on my Carbureted Base M10 then when I converted to Tii I bought a new Tii internally regulated version