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Need Cage Nuts for drivers side mirror


rdeeble

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on the topic of smashed nuts : )  follow instructions on various parts of this thread.  put the cage nut through the détentes with the screw in them so that the bottom of the cage is not all the way the bottom but moved up little towards the top - then twist so the catch is away from the détentes and will fully catch on the sheet metal - then you should be able to tighten them up nicely without squashing the nut.

'76 02 (Nellie) daily driver since '94

'76 02 (Oscar) sunroof restore since '10

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  • 1 month later...

 

Did these fit into the original holes OK?  I have some now (plenty to spare if anyone needs them), and they won't fit into my holes.  However, I think it's just due to paint in the way leftover from the body shop.  I feel like I'm going to have to drill out some to fit it, but that's a little scary.  

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Well, shit.  None of them online list hole size anywhere, or I don't know what their dimensions mean.  

 

Originals still NLA from most sources, but haven't tried e-mailing vintage autobahn yet.  I have one of my originals, but my body shop lost the other one.    

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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  • 3 months later...

There is a little rubber flap on the trailing edge of the mirror base, which gives access to a very small set screw, that locks the body of the mirror to the mount, which is bolted to the caged nuts.  

 

That little screw is frozen on my car and the mirror flops around like it is loose on the mount : ( 

   

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76Mintgrun02,  Hopefully you can un-freeze that set-screw.  What I've seen is that the door sheet metal around the bolt holes gets distorted outwards from the mirror being torqued up and down.   After mirror and base plate removal you can flatten the distortion by laying a small block of wood over each hole and tapping with a hammer to smooth out the distortion.  Don't be too aggressive.  You don't want to  damage the sheet metal.

 

New gasket rubber helps to clamp the mirror to the door firmly, as well.

Edited by PaulTWinterton

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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Thanks Paul, I will let you know what I find, when I eventually get that mirror off.  I have been trying not to be too aggressive with that tiny screw, but will eventually twist a little harder.  I may try a small tip on my little makita impact driver.  The tap tap tap can pop things loose and that rattle gun can do very delicate work, if you're careful.  I am due for new gasket rubber on the handles, so it might be good to add the mirror pieces to my list and do them at the same time.

   

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