steering and suspension Tie Rod Center Link

[Danz3]

I am in the process of rebuilding my steering box.  The rebuild is done and all seems well with the box.  Last night I was planning on reinstalling the box and buttoning up the steering.  When reconnecting the center tie rod link to the drop arm I noticed that I somehow screwed up the threads on the ball joint and can't start the castle nut on the threads.  What are my options?  Replace the center link ($), try to chase the threads with a tap (if I can find one, M10x1)?  The ball joint doesn't appear to be replaceable in the link.

[M3M3]

Buy a new center link. Not many dollars.

Or chase the threads with thread cleaning tools, not taps.

[KFunk]

The proper re-threading die is indeed hard to find.  I think I got one from McMaster-Carr.  It is fine thread, M10x1.0 sounds right, but I'm not sure.  It's at home.  I might be talked into dropping it in the mail sometime, but I am a bit busy.

[Fatherof3]

If the damage is just on the end use a file and remove the damage until the nut will thread on. As long as the nut is past the damaged area when seated no harm.

[roadhog0]

I'd get a new one if I didn't know the history on the old one. If I knew the history and it was good, triangle file till it bolts up.

[Hans]

I wouldn't take a chance with that nut not getting a good bite on threads. Check Amazon for thread chaser kit from Kastner I believe. about $75

[Danz3]

I checked at Autozone and they have a kit as part of their loan-a-tool program. I'll give that a try and hopefully repair the threads. If not I'll have to replace the link.

[Buckeye]

Or buy a metric thread file. They come very handy.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/KDT0/2228/N0668.oap?ck=Search_N0668_-1_-1&pt=N0668&ppt=C0099

[KFunk]

I was just checking my random die collection, because I know I've done this and bought the right die. My dads big tap and die kit did not have the right one, so I bought one. The only one in my random collection that looks reasonable says 1.25 on it, not completely sure about the width as its not marked. So be certain you've got the right one.

Edited January 29, 2016 by KFunk

[wegweiser]

Since you can't easily use a die on a rotating balljoint, I've gotten out of similar emergency situations, using one of these style thread repair tools. I think I paid about $25 for the one I have. It's small (about 2" x 2")

 

I've never had much luck with thread files, personally. Be sure to use only new lock nuts - always.

 

Sears sells 'em!

 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cm-universal-external-thread-repair-tool/p-00938948000P

Edited January 29, 2016 by wegweiser

[xferboy]

I have no idea if this actually works or not.

 

Looks like a neat idea.

 

Unibur:

 

https://youtu.be/D1sK3iREG9A

 

or touch up with a file or high grit flap wheel on a grinder (gently)

 

[Hans]

Be very careful using thread cutters (taps and dies) to clean threads. Thread chasers are more gentle, and less likely to start a new set of threads. that said, this is one fitting that I wouldn't want to fail because of poor threads.

[TobyB]

Except that, if the nut tightens this joint, all it does is wedge the taper into position, and then act as a safety.  It should have wedging tension

on it, no more.

 

THAT said, I have found that the center link is the one joint on a 2002 that fails in regular use.  Tie rods last forever, ball joints close,

center links seem to be good for 50k or less, if you spend a lot of time jumping curbs.

 

Has anyone used the OEM BMW link?  It seems the 'good' OE's (Lemforder, etc) don't make the center link anymore, and BMW only gets $130 for it.

 

t

[AceAndrew]

Toby, Moog still makes the center link.  It's the best one I've used.

[TobyB]

mmm.... moog...  that works!  Thanks, Andrew.  I used Meyle, but that was back when they were still a known quality...

 

t