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Nasty Surprise


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Before I took the car out for a mid-winter run today, I checked coolant and found dark brown blobs floating in the radiator tank. No oily sheen. Not present when I put the car in storage a couple of months ago, but there were rust particles at that time. Oil is fresh and a different color. Also not milky. No white exhaust cloud. Car runs cool and like a champ. I'm due for flush. Will that tell the tale?

On that subject, how hard is it to do a flush without a lift? Thanks as always.

Original owner:

74 2002A Production 4-74

Upgrades: '75 mirrors, 320 driving lights, Weber, fatter tires, sound system.

Sold: 92 325i sedan 5 spd Production 8-91

Upgrades: Wheels, Borla, Bilsteins, sound system

Bought: 2012 Cayman

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you don't need a lift.  Are you going to flush the whole system, or just the radiator?  If you do just the radiator - that's pretty easy - just get a big pan and open the petcock on the bottom tank.  Once it's drained, you can use a coolant system cleaner, or just flush it out well with a hose.

 

If you want to do the block as well - you need to get the drain plug up under the exhaust manifold.  Not impossible, but tougher to reach.

FAQ Member # 2616

"What do you mean NEXT project?"

-- My wife.

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Would you recommend a system flush? Maybe a lot of crud in there? Sounds like a nasty job. May have to go to the stealer.

Original owner:

74 2002A Production 4-74

Upgrades: '75 mirrors, 320 driving lights, Weber, fatter tires, sound system.

Sold: 92 325i sedan 5 spd Production 8-91

Upgrades: Wheels, Borla, Bilsteins, sound system

Bought: 2012 Cayman

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BMW coolant. Changed about 5 years ago.

Original owner:

74 2002A Production 4-74

Upgrades: '75 mirrors, 320 driving lights, Weber, fatter tires, sound system.

Sold: 92 325i sedan 5 spd Production 8-91

Upgrades: Wheels, Borla, Bilsteins, sound system

Bought: 2012 Cayman

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BMW coolant. Changed about 5 years ago.

 

Time to replace.  That's probably your culprit.   If your coolant is that "sludgy" at the cap, I'll bet the block is full of crud too. 

 

Very easy job to drain the block as well.  Just make sure your heater valve is open, and the rad cap is off as well.

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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Coolant should be replaced every other year. BMW coolant is the way to go.

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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The plug's actually not too hard to do from above.  You have to do it by feel, and

if it hasn't been off for a while, you may need an odd combo of

breaker bar and socket to get it to pop loose.

 

It is worth doing, if you have gooey antifreeze.

 

All sorts of crud comes out that way.  Then you can stick the garden hose in the rad

cap and give it a good hosing. 

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Thanks for all the input. I think I may have found part of the problem. The radiator is shot. Leaking on the left and right sides. Thinking about replacing with 
OEM. Ireland aluminum is cheaper but apparently requires some install mods, and there's a warning about fan clearance. And then there's the recore option. It's already been done once. Any thoughts? 

Original owner:

74 2002A Production 4-74

Upgrades: '75 mirrors, 320 driving lights, Weber, fatter tires, sound system.

Sold: 92 325i sedan 5 spd Production 8-91

Upgrades: Wheels, Borla, Bilsteins, sound system

Bought: 2012 Cayman

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Thanks for all the input. I think I may have found part of the problem. The radiator is shot. Leaking on the left and right sides. Thinking about replacing with 

OEM. Ireland aluminum is cheaper but apparently requires some install mods, and there's a warning about fan clearance. And then there's the recore option. It's already been done once. Any thoughts? 

Consider the Walloth Nesch high capacity unit...it looks just like stock, but if you have any hot running troubles with the car this will help with that a lot!

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First reaction to the heading was this must involve a Texas purchase or repair, or Toby's VP candidacy just hit a bump in the road with an ill-timed disclosure about an opponent's negative camber.  :wacko:

 

Is there drama in radiator replacement?  

 

Search the archives.  If yours is currently brass, find a radiator shop near you and consult.  After all, it lasted this long (unless it was a poor replacement or repair.)   Using an early E21, brass or aluminum offering may also be an option, as is a Pinto radiator.

 

Good luck.

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Texas purchase?

 

For new radiator - research.   

 

To me - the best solution is an old "Silicon Garage" triple core radiator.  There was someone that took over for Curt when Curt left us (and we still miss you sir) - but I can't remember who.  Anyway - this unit bolts into the stock area, no mods necessary and is fantastic.

 

Second solution - E21 radiator.  Requires minor mods, but will work better.  You can order the kit for a 2002 from someone like Bavarian Autosport.

 

Third Option - take your radiator out and to a local radiator repair shop.  Ask them to fix it.  

 

That's what I'd do if I were you.  Personally - I did Option 1 years and years ago, and it was a fantastic upgrade.

 

Ken

FAQ Member # 2616

"What do you mean NEXT project?"

-- My wife.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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