engine and drivetrain Tii heater return pipe

[JohnH]

Here is an example of a new coolant return pipe with 3 coats of high-heat primer and paint.  Should look nice besided the block and behind 6 new hoses.

IMG_2605.jpg

 

Very nice, but check this bad boy out;

 

 

and assembled but not yet soldered;

 

 

The beauty of using the soldered fittings is that they come ready bead rolled and they add 2mm to the OD, making them just right. Yes I know the ID is about 2mm less, but it cant be any worse than the rusty interior of the genuine example.  

 

Total, about £15 ($20).

 

Its a bit nippy out at the moment and my fingers were not up for soldering, so tomorrow maybe.

[OriginalOwner]

I recommend putting the radiator cap on, that opening is a "magnet" for important stuff that you don't really want to lose.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Edited February 11, 2016 by OriginalOwner

[JohnS]

I know it's a little late now, but I believe that JayMic in the UK stills sells a reproduction of that tii return pipe.  Part  #02C0.1095 on their site (£60.65).  I bought one last year from them.

John

Edited February 12, 2016 by JohnS

[norda]

Just in case it has not been considered. Copper should not be in direct contact with steel it will rapidly oxidize and you will find yourself quickly in the same place of repair.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JohnH]

I recommend putting the radiator cap on, that opening is a "magnet" for important stuff that you don't really want to lose.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Good point. As I get older I seem to drop and loose more & more things, though I claim that they just quantum tunnelled. They always turn up again when you least expect them!!!

 

I know it's a little late now, but I believe that JayMic in the UK stills sells a reproduction of that tii return pipe.  Part  #02C0.1095 on their site (£60.65).  I bought one last year from them.

John

 

John, I do actually have one on back order with Jaymic. They are having a new batch produced but they wont be ready for a week or two, so I thought I'de fill my days knocking up this one. The Jaymic one costs about £80 with taxes and postage. The Johnmic about £10, so far!!! 

 

Just in case it has not been considered. Copper should not be in direct contact with steel it will rapidly oxidize and you will find yourself quickly in the same place of repair.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'll bare that in mind when I fit it, as the only bits that will be in contact with iron/steel will be the fore (17mm PITA) and aft (10mm lost it into the coolant drain tray, still to be retreived, bolt) block mounting points, which reminds me, I still have to knock up the front bracket.

[JohnH]

Just a follow up on this saga.

 

I sweated the joints and test fitted the copper beauty. The right hand end wasnt quite right, so being copper it was easy to cut it off and replace it with a better one;

 

 

The major problem with this design is the left hand attachment to the PITA bolt. I wasted a lot of heart beats and half a day trying to finagle it into place. Even taking various components off my hand, yes you can only use one, just wont fit.

 

 

 

The major problem was the movable wrap-around bracket, witch after after major redesign and light bulb moment lead to this;

 

 

 

Yep, its changed colour as well. Not quite the correct feldgrau, rather light and bright Rustoleum Hard Hat steel grey, as befits the new approach.

 

The beauty of this "new approach" is that you can get the bracket into place before the pipe gets in the way. In fact it went so smoothly that I forgot to take a picture of proof! Anyway here is the pipe in place, standing out against the pristine block.

 

 

from the side;

 

 

heres the other end, showing clear access to the starter top bolt, which was the cause of this train wreck in the first place;

 

 

Well you could if that rubber pipe hadn't got in the way! Notice the gleamy new starter solenoid.

 

A beauty shot showing it all buttoned up. Spiffy. Notice the k-fish fuel line clip, nestled in place. 

 

 

So the big question is, does it work. Yes. The heater, which was always very good, is still very good. The k-fish warm up device appears to work just as it did before. Would I do it again, well, yyyes ish. Ive learned grasshopperish Zen like calming techniques overcoming the PITA bolt. I feel I'm a better and more understanding person. I will let you be the final arbiter. 

Edited February 21, 2016 by JohnH

[Simeon]

Are you really planning on pulling all of that to replace it when you get the replacement? That looks like a good (and permanent) fix to me.

[JohnH]

For now I'm going to keep it as is, even though I do have a Jaymic replacement on back order. I think I could whip it all apart and fit the new one in an hour or two if needed. Knocking up the copper pipework only takes about 15 minutes. Maybe I should get a production line going!