body and interior Rust issue under rear seats

[Guy Cocquyt]

If the rear quarter windows seals leaked, that's where the water would pool and not be noticed. Guy

Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk

[joysterm]

I think you have to look at your situation as the glass  being half full. All be it serious it appears to be isolated, in most cases it is not. If you have someone who can do the work for what seems to be a more than reasonable price you have saved another 02.( and your pocket book to a lesser degree) 

 

Looking forward to seeing some positive results.....good luck with the long journey.

 

Mike 

[Oregon2002]

Guy, That's a very good assumption as its here in Oregon (the rainy state) hahah so its very possible that is the cause to the rust issue.

 

Joy, Thank you and I have high hopes of restoring this '02 the proper way. I have been looking at this project "Half Full" since I have seen that the Major rust is isolated to just the rear and front valance. I am meeting up with the Welder today to see what he can and cannot do. He has replaced lower rear quarter panels on Camaros and others so I feel he is capable of completing the work. We will see and I will keep you all posted!

['76mintgrün'02]

Take off the rose colored glasses and put on the rust colored ones.   Now is the time to fully assess the rust situation. 

 

I removed the bulkhead under the rear seat so I could treat the rust that ran under it.  There was no patching/welding needed in my case, but removing that piece was the only way to get at the rust.  Keep in mind the bulkhead is NLA, so you might try and remove it carefully, so it can go back in.  

 

I did wind up needing to weld patches into the front footwells.  "One little hole" where the gas pedal attached, turned in to patches across the front on both sides.  I would suggest pulling all the tar mats off the floors to see what all you are getting into.  Based on the rusty firewall over the tunnel, there has been water under the sound dampening which could be hiding more rust.  

 

The rockers might look fine, but I would take a wire wheel to them and make sure there is not bondo hiding problems (especially the back sections).  

 

Also check for blisters on the rear shock towers/wheel wells.  The schutz they sprayed on there can hide them.  They are often down around the bottom of that 'shelf' that is welded into the wheel well and not up around the shock tower itself.

 

I am rooting for you and hope you are able to save this car, but now is the time to really look at what all it needs.  

[Hans]

The problem is, this an important structural part of the car, and the suspension mounting points have to precisely located for the car to track properly. This is a big job.Not ot mention that hole under the dash. How much time/effort/money are you prepared to invest with the risk that it might not work? As above, if this was a keepsake car, maybe. I'd be scouting around for a better starting point.

[Oregon2002]

There is not much for a starting point in the state of Oregon sadly. I feel the car is salvageable but only a fabricator can confirm this. Yes it is a suspension/critical spot on the car. if we do it properly with replacement seat pans and measuring. It should all go back to the original state of alignment. I have been spending time making sure each spot on the car is rust removal worthy and not having to be a patch job.

 

I am aware that this might be a too far gone case. I am keeping my options open but I am still leaving my hopes up. We will see

[M3M3]

as long as the main subframe bolt locations are solid, you are fine.  the straps are not critical suspension location points.  all they do is keep the flex of the subframe in check.

[LikeStig]

If the rockers are solid, then the subframe mounts should be fine. Look closely around the bolts Marshall mentioned. If you want to get crazier blow compressed air in the rockers at different places and see what flies out. Inspect the areas of the rear end where panels are doubled up or overlapped. Look around the trunk where the floor is against the body panels. Look at the structure support stuff for the trunk from underneath. Look where the diff hangs from the rear. Look over the area in front of the engine bay panel by panel (front clip area). The floorpan stuff is easy to fix

 

My car had surface corrosion around the heater-box too, wire wheel it off and paint it with the rust encapsulating paint of your choice (POR-15 is easy). You can get a generic press seal from a hardware store and the problem is solved.

Edited February 14, 2016 by LikeStig

[Hans]

Judging from the pictures, both subframe mounting bolt sockets are toast. There is no way to adjust the cross member to compensate for a slight deviation in welding in the replacement. So the risk is that the car will crab. I'm sure there is a way to have this done properly with frame alignment jigs, but is it worth it?

[M3M3]

Judging from the pictures, both subframe mounting bolt sockets are toast. There is no way to adjust the cross member to compensate for a slight deviation in welding in the replacement. So the risk is that the car will crab. I'm sure there is a way to have this done properly with frame alignment jigs, but is it worth it?

Looking closely at the second picture, I agree with you. Rust has perforated not just the strap locations, I see light around the subframe bolt locations. Scrap it and find a better chassis.

[Vicleonardo1]

If need be: No affiliation. 

 

Possible donor in Bend. Has been on the list for awhile. Sorry he has no pics of the interior. 

 

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5426199954.html

[Mike Self]

From experience with lots of friends' and parts cars, the rust you pictured is probably the result of a leaking rear window seal, so be sure and replace that.  If you check under the vinyl-covered rear package shelf, I'll bet you find evidence of water/rust there.  Leaking quarter windows can also contribute, but usually they cause rocker panel rust.  The rest of the floor looks OK, so if the rear wheel arches and inner rockers are sound, the car is probably worth saving.  I hate to see yet another 2002 get cut up when it's salvageable.  

 

Anyway, it's repairable if you're patient and either can weld yourself or have a good (and reasonably priced) welder to do the work for you.  You can save some money on the job (presuming you can't find a pre-formed patch panel) by making a cardboard template for the patch and give that to the fabricator.  

 

Good luck, and hope you can save another '02

 

cheers

mike

[Oregon2002]

I agree with you mike. I have spent a lot of time inching every part of the vehicle with a wire brush and scraper trying to locate every mm of rust on the vehicle to see if it has penetrated through or if it just surface rust. its really odd because inside the wheel wells, they have just surface if any at all. I am thinking it sat over a puddle of water for quite some time with the quarter windows slightly open. The rear inside shelf is slightly rusted around the 6x9 speaker holes. I will be welding that up anyways. Don't need rear speakers in a track day car. The final decision will be when it gets to a lift and we get a whole picture of underneath it. You can only spot so much laying under the car..

 

Thank you all for your advise!!! I will do everything in my power to resurrect this '02 back to its original glory. Id hate to see another one wither away!!!