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Engines dies while hard turning/braking.


moose

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I cannot find an answer to this, i searched the forums and google and found nothing really relating to what my problem is. I checked fuse #12 and its good just to put that out there. My engine no matter what gear, or rpm will die in two ways, either when i turn very sharp, or panic breaking. I found i guess a pinpoint or two to try and tackle the brake issue and theres been no luck. The car wont die if its just idling and if you push in the brake pedal hard. I know that was suggested somewhere to see if that made it stall out. Any ideas?

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Ruling out a massive vacuum leak from your booster (just humour us and disconnect and block the hose, try it again ).

Have you checked the low tension wiring around your distributor and coil? Condenser nice and tight on the distributor? What are your engine mounts like? Does your tacho drop immediately when it stalls?

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Same thing here for at least a couple of years many years ago with my '73 2002.  Stalling with a sharp turn.  Only way to restart was to bounce the car at each front fender, sorta like bouncing the car and checking the shocks.  Started right up.  One day I noticed the battery was shifting a few mm and shorting out (my term; probably incorrect); positive post (again, maybe wrong; was in late '70's or so) was touching the end of a body sheet metal screw that was projecting in toward the battery.  Bouncing moved the battery away from the screw.  

 

Does any of that explanation sound reasonable?  That was >40 years ago, and I have cloudy memories of that decade. 

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Mechanical or electric fuel pump? My electric pumps have always tended to stall the car by flooding it after hard braking at the end of an autocross run.

Which carb or carbs? If fuel level is not right in carb, braking and turning can slosh fuel around.

But besides that, first place I would look is for loose wire at distributor.

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Im gonna say check the float height in the carb. Use to run a backwards 32/36 on Datsun pickup, the thing would stall out every time you slammed on the brakes hard or braked at the bottom of a hill. Was a float issue in that truck. But as others have said, coil wiring does seem like a possible culprit.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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