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Center link not going in far enough to put cotter key


xferboy

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Evening,

 

has anyone run into issues with not being able to get the nut down far enough to get a cotter key in on the center link (drag link)?

 

I don't have the plastic dust caps that others have issues with.  I can only get the top of the nut even with the top of the threads.  I've torqued hard enough to strip some nuts (getting close to running out using the old ones, which seem better).  The big thick rubber washer is compressed, but still has some squish, so I don't believe its holding up the show.

 

Spent some time measuring the old and new one and measurements seem to be close.

 

thoughts?  can they go in backwards? (even if they did, the holes for the tie rods would be in the wrong place but thats it).  I've pulled it already and am re-fitted.

 

The old one seems good, I'm going to re-try that one....

 

thanks

 

Allan

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Naw, thats not it :)

 

Its only missing by a mm or 2.

 

the following pictures are the new center link in, with the nut TIGHT (very close to stripping)  Threads even or just above the nut.  If I could get a cotter key in, it would be the thinnest one I have... not good.

2 & 3 show the old and new link put in an old steering box by hand.  A couple mm difference

last shows the old center link in, nut not nearly tightened as the first and the cotter key in....

 

Rubber gaskets got knackered, so that's just felt.

 

IMG_20160401_213751.jpgIMG_20160401_214344.jpgIMG_20160401_214423.jpgIMG_20160401_220005.jpg
 

 

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center link spindle is taper, therefore it is not pushed in far enough into idealer arm hole. Try to compress them together before putting the nut on. Center link can be installed backward. For reference  picture of center link (left hand side) in correct orientation for installation. BTW, soak center link rubber elements in engine oil for 20 minutes before installation.

 

Centerlink_01.JPG

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

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the in car pictures are with the nuts tightened.  The reference out of car are pushed in by hand (hard) until they stopped.

 

Re: backwards, I was just confirming that the tapers will go in correctly.  I knew the holes would be angled wrong (and tired it with the same results)

 

I have to go get more nuts as I've stripped a bunch trying to get enough room for the cotter key.

 

 its almost like the taper is off just a touch...

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9 hours ago, xferboy said:

the in car pictures are with the nuts tightened.  The reference out of car are pushed in by hand (hard) until they stopped.

 

Re: backwards, I was just confirming that the tapers will go in correctly.  I knew the holes would be angled wrong (and tired it with the same results)

 

I have to go get more nuts as I've stripped a bunch trying to get enough room for the cotter key.

 

 its almost like the taper is off just a touch...

Yes, one end taper could be off to the other.

Here's pics of a new one I bought a long time ago........didn't need no fancy instruments to see this one had problems.

 

 

DSCN3821sm.JPG

DSCN3822cr.JPG

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

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