M10 Crank Bolt Removal

[Dake]

Hi all, first I'd just like to say I've Googled the heck out of this issue and cannot find a clear response. The details are in another thread but the TLDR is I accidentally drilled through the timing chain cover and now I need to remove it.

 

I ordered a Lisle Flywheel Stop from O'Reilly (in black) and its teeth are improperly spaced. I ordered a VW flywheel stop from eBay (in gold, as suggested on an 02 forum) and I see no way it will work because the gap between the flywheel and case is nowhere near wide enough. It's wide enough for the black one, just barely, but again those teeth are not spaced right. This is an E21 transmission. Is there a tool that will get this job done?

 

"Just put the car in top gear and pull the e-brake"

Well first, I don't have an e-brake. But I did put the car in 5th and chock both rear wheels. I applied heat and PB. I was literally hanging from a 4 foot breaker bar and nothing happened.

 

"Just use a screwdriver on one of the teeth"

I'm not a fan of breaking a tooth off the flywheel, and with my luck that's what would happen. This bolt has probably been attached since before I was born.

 

"Just machine your own tool"

I wish I had the resources to do that!

Edited February 15, 2017 by Dake

[Preyupy]

I am assuming you are talking about the NUT that holds the front pulley onto the crank?  You know that it is a normal Right Hand Thread?  Getting anything on the flywheel to lock it in place will be hard with the transmission installed.  As long as you have full engagement and it does not slip off you should be ok with a screw driver/pry bar inserted between 2 teeth if you can get access.  It should be torqued to about 300ft/lb + rust

[jgerock]

The air cooled VW flywheel lock has (2) sides spaced for VW 6 volt 180mm and 200mm 12 volt flywheels. It will not fit exactly in the BMW flywheel teeth but it will work.  The bolt that comes with the tool is incorrect for use on the BMW engine- I use a different bolt.  Since your transmission is in place, I do not think you can use a lock with just the inspection cover removed.  If you are taking the car apart, pull the radiator and try to use an impact on the 30mm nut holding the pulley to the crank.

[Simeon]

If 5th gear and chocked wheels allows a 4' breaker bar, securing the engine from rotation is not your problem. 

 

Chemical weapons first: apply your favourite penetrating oil. 

 

Use a impact wrench. The biggest you can find. If you don't have air etc Then look into something like a 'slogger wrench'

 

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Toledo/24/327578/sloggers/409471/offset-cranked-slogging-wrenches-safety-version-metric/437445/SWRM30CS

 

Finally, it may need some heat applied to the nut or even split and replaced. Drill down parallel with the crankshaft to weaken the nut and then have at it with a sharp cold chisel. 

[jimk]

Can break the transmission in overdrive. Safer gear is direct (4th)

[TobyB]

Air impact gun.  $20 Harbor freight, fill the compressor tank, put on ear muffs, have at it, and read a book.

It'll sit there whattling away for 5 minutes, then all of a sudden, brrrapppp and it's off.

 

Or an 8' bar.  Moderate heat and a penetrating oil helps, too.

 

t

[KFunk]

I just bump it off with the starter.  Take a breaker bar or big 1/2" drive ratchet and wedge the end between the battery tray and the frame rail, and make sure the socket is firmly in place on the crank nut.  One brief turn of the key to spin the starter and it pops loose.  Its surprisingly far less dramatic than you'd expect.  Sometimes the ratchet falls to the ground afterward, but no biggie.  

 

Edit:  Plenty o' videos of this method.  I've done it in several types of cars, including the 02 multiple times.  Crazy easy.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+bump+crank+bolt     

Edited February 17, 2017 by KFunk

[KFunk]

17 hours ago, Preyupy said:

I am assuming you are talking about the NUT that holds the front pulley onto the crank?  You know that it is a normal Right Hand Thread?  Getting anything on the flywheel to lock it in place will be hard with the transmission installed.  As long as you have full engagement and it does not slip off you should be ok with a screw driver/pry bar inserted between 2 teeth if you can get access.  It should be torqued to about 300ft/lb + rust

 

You, uh, sure about that 300 ft/lb. number? Maybe you're thinking of a rear axle nut?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VzY_ydaeqp_lN-NT_dpMSjvD9_rbh5g27BunmTNRKKI/edit#gid=0

 

That sheet shows 101 to 108 ft. lb for the v-belt pulley on the crankshaft, which seems similar to what I've found in my manual (not with me) and put on my crank nut many times before.   

Edited February 16, 2017 by KFunk

[Preyupy]

Oops, sorry that was for the M30, S38 and the S14

[jmiller]

I made a tool in about 10 minutes.  Using G-10 fiberglass I had laying around.  One hole is tapped for a little M6 bolt to create a nub to fit into a flywheel hole; the other hole is used to bolt it onto the tranny bell housing.  

Edited April 11, 2017 by jmiller
M6, not M10 (uses 10mM socket)

[jimk]

3 hours ago, jmiller said:

I made a tool in about 10 minutes.  Using G-10 fiberglass I had laying around.  One hole is tapped for a little M10 bolt to create a nub to fit into a flywheel hole; the other hole is used to bolt it onto the tranny bell housing.  

The winner solution by far.  Send this man a cool one.

[Dake]

jmiller, that is amazing. That's the kind of solution I like: a free one.

 

I'll try that out over the weekend, but at first glance my flywheel doesn't have threaded holes or holes large enough for a substantial bolt (larger than M3 or so).

 

I would use the starter or a screwdriver if I didn't have visions of something breaking and the car getting parked for ten years.

[KFunk]

40 minutes ago, Dake said:

 

I would use the starter or a screwdriver if I didn't have visions of something breaking and the car getting parked for ten years.

 

Screwdriver I'd worry about breaking teeth on flywheel, but not sure, never done that.

 

Starter is kind of like using an electric impact wrench, only much easier.  As long as your socket is on straight (6pt. preferably), you're fine.  It's amazingly drama-free.  Watch the vids ( https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+bump+crank+bolt ). I've done it on my 02 several times, including with my freshly rebuilt engine with all the goodies, on a friend's Corolla, a friend's Escort, and my wife's Subaru.      

[crunchberry]

Get clean cotton clothes line rope shove it down a spark plug hole on the compression stroke. It will stop the crank from turning, then give your breaker bar a good pull. Back the crank up and pull the rope out. I've also used a plug wire at a wrecking yard when rope wasn't available.