Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Okay..I give up, how do you remove the cogged wheel on the tii IP??


repoman

Recommended Posts

I am trying to remove the cogged wheel on the injection pump with a small two claw gear puller (and yes, I have removed the nut).  I have the wheel that is made out of resin, not the aluminum one.  It only has two holes.  Is there a way to remove this without having to fabricate the "BMW Special Tool"?  I put enough pressure on it and the wheel is starting to bend.  There isn't much room for the claws facing inwards, so I have the claws facing outwards.  I am afraid it will snap...I've done a search on the faq and on google....nothing....

 

Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!

Edited by repoman

1974 2002 Verona & 1973 2002 Riviera

1982 320iA & 1983 320iS
2002 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3L PSD Wife's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, never heard of a resin cogged wheel.    I'm not sure the special tool will do much better.  I use a generic puller on the aluminum wheel without a problem.  "Pop" its off.

 

Idea: use a hair dryer to heat up the area.  Obviously being resin you don't want to start a fire, hence the hair dryer.  That's all I've got.

 

Good luck.

73 Inka Tii #2762958

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How odd.

 

That's a Bosch symbol and number there. When Googled, you get:

 

281979893211_1.jpg

 

 

and http://www.zeppy.io/discover/fr/bmw-2002-ti

 

and then to go tangential: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/like/351351209533?vectorid=229480&lgeo=1&item=351351209533&rmvSB=true

 

Looks pretty stout. Spray it. Tap it. Freeze the pump shaft. It will come off.

 

Cheers,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, ray_ said:

How odd.

That's a Bosch symbol and number there. When Googled, you get:

281979893211_1.jpg

 

And it's almost a roundel on the left side of the wheel in the original post.  Counterfeiters can do anything these days!  Not saying that's what you (repoman) have.

John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm digging deep into the gray matter here, and Rob Torres could definitively answer this. IIRC, the resin, or molded, IP drive wheels were sold by BMW as a replacement part for many years. Rob told me that they actually outlast the aluminum version. I also sort of recall that the later tiis came equipped with plastic wheels, but that may be way off. Somewhere around 10 - 15 years ago, everyone ran out of new tii IP drive wheels, both metal and plastic, and they became difficult to find until relatively recently. Someone's making and selling them again, perhaps it's even BMW. 

Hmm, just checked ebay. New aluminum IP wheels there go for $200.

Is anyone here ebay person 2k2tii?

Jerry

no bimmer, for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blunt's site has the aluminum cogged wheel for $116.30 new from BMW.  Part #13-52-1-259-586.  I bought one from him a couple of years ago.  Just in case the plastic one gets buggered up.

Edited by JohnS

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as a reference point, I used one of these, meant for tie rods.  It's a little big, but it fit.  (I really need to buy a small puller)

 

I don't remember having to use a lot of grunt to get it to pop.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/outer-tie-rod-remover/A-p8061848e

 

Heat on the pulley may help, a small amount of impact may help too...

 

Let us know how it turned out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well.....

 

It does appear to be OEM.  I tried to heat it up a bit, sprayed some lubricant on it, tried to pry it with a screwdriver on the other point not impacted by the claws, tried tapping it with a rubber mallet....

(sorry for the big pics)

 

....after over an hour, just started cranking on it, and it broke.  After removing it, I can't quite understand it...the shaft was spotless, no rust or anything.  It's only money, right!?!?!?

IMG_3268.JPG

IMG_3271.JPG

IMG_3280.JPG

IMG_3285.JPG

Edited by repoman

1974 2002 Verona & 1973 2002 Riviera

1982 320iA & 1983 320iS
2002 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3L PSD Wife's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't feel bad, even at the dealer when we used the factory tool, they usually broke 95% of the time  but back then, they weren't 200 bucks

 

The only diff on the factory tool was the 2 fingers could fit under the pulley towards the center so you were not pulling on the outside edge but as I said, they still broke

 

Thanks, Rick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, stephers said:

Don't feel bad, even at the dealer when we used the factory tool, they usually broke 95% of the time  but back then, they weren't 200 bucks

 

The only diff on the factory tool was the 2 fingers could fit under the pulley towards the center so you were not pulling on the outside edge but as I said, they still broke

 

Thanks, Rick

Well, that makes me feel a little better!  Thanks!!

 

I did attempt to put the claws on the inside as well, however, not able to grip as well and ended up shredding the inside a bit.

1974 2002 Verona & 1973 2002 Riviera

1982 320iA & 1983 320iS
2002 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3L PSD Wife's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...