Can't find the timing marks (for real) 1975 02

[Mark92131]

46 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

I will see if I can find the ball, any ideas on what paint to use?

 

Some people just use white enamel on a bamboo skewer to paint the "ball".  I just went through this same procedure yesterday on my 1975 to set TDC for installing my 123 Ignition distributor.  I got it in the ball park by setting the rotor to point to the #1 spark plug lead, taking off the valve cover and checking the cam line under the oil bar and having the cam lobes off the rocker arms on the #1 intake and exhaust valves.  The pointer on the front cover was pointing to the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley.  I removed the spark plugs and rocked the car back and forth in 4th gear to slightly move the flywheel while shining a LED flashlight down the hole.  My flywheel was pretty worn, but I was able to just see the worn "O" in "OT", (it actually looked more like a "U").  The "TDC" line is about a 1/2 inch clockwise from the "OT" mark, it was very faint on mine.  I lined it up with the flat part of the hole on the driver's side to set TDC.

 

Good Luck,

 

 

Mark92131

 

[Dudeland]

I am in exactly the same boat. I just got my 123 and want to do the same thing.  So when you got it lined up, you pulled the dizzy and put in the 123.  Did you point the rotor to the line for TDC on the 123?

 

 

[zinz]

Once the engine is at TDC, the rotor can point at any of the 4 plug wire towers on the distributor cap...put #1 plug wire on that tower and follow the timing order around the cap in a clockwise fashion (1, 3, 4, 2). Stab the 123 to allow convenient routing of the wire loom, then follow the directions in the 123 manual about rotating the 123 until the green light just turns on, then lock it down.  

 

Painting the timing marks allows you to more easily confirm your advance #s with the engine running afterwards.

 

Ed

Edited April 25, 2017 by zinz

[Mark92131]

23 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

I am in exactly the same boat. I just got my 123 and want to do the same thing.  So when you got it lined up, you pulled the dizzy and put in the 123.  Did you point the rotor to the line for TDC on the 123?

 

 

 

Once I was at the TDC line on the flywheel, I noted the position of the rotor in relation to the cap clips on the distributor body on the original distributor and tried to mimic this position on the 123.  I used a felt pen to mark the edge (no TDC line) of the distributor body on the 123 to line up the rotor in this relative position.  As Zinz indicated, once the engine is at TDC, you can use any wire as your #1 plug as long as you go in clockwise order for 3, 4 and 2.  I pulled out the old distributor, (the rotor will rotate counter-clockwise as it comes out).  You need to position the 123 rotor slightly counter-clockwise from the end point position to have it lined up properly when it is seated.

 

Once it is seated, ground the Blue wire, connect the Red wire to the "+" side of the coil, leave the Black wire disconnected, turn on the ignition, slightly turn the 123 distributor body Counter-Clockwise until the green LED under the rotor lights up, tighten the distributor clamp, turn off the ignition, connect the Black wire to the "-" side of the Coil and you are ready to program it.

 

I have the Bluetooth version and after connecting, my 123 Tune application would not find my distributor.  If that happens to you, remove the Black wire on the coil and have someone hold it on the "+" terminal of the coil, turn on the ignition, the blue LED on the body of the 123 distributor will flash slowly and then stay lit, resetting itself.  Turn off the ignition, re-connect the Black wire to the "-" side of the coil and the 123 Tune application should find the distributor so you can enter your timing settings.

 

I still need to pull vacuum from my Lynx manifold, but I did a test drive just using the Static map, it runs sooooooooooooo much better.

 

Have fun,

 

 

Mark92131

[Dudeland]

Dude super cool.  I also have a MSD 6a digital to drop in as well.  My weber 32/36 is completely f'd.  Backfiring through the carb like crazy.  I am setting it up as per the faq guide with shaft bearings, new seals, power valve and float. 

 

 I will check all the TDC marks to make sure my cam is lined up correctly.  It is supposed to have a schrick 292 in it.  We will see once I get the cover off. 

 

Thanks much

 

M

[zinz]

Your 123 is installed already?

 

32/36... how many turns out is the mix screw?

 

Ed

[Dudeland]

No I haven't installed the 123 yet.   I haven't messed with the mix screws yet either.  I took it apart yesterday to get the sizes of the jets, and accidentally dropped the primary air one down into the abyss. I ordered a new kit from Weberjets.com, including the properly sized ones I was missing. 

 

 

[Dudeland]

Just a quick update,  I tried to resurrect my 32/36, unfortunately I have a bent main shaft which may cause the butterfly to not seat properly.  I tried to replace the bushings with bearings but it would bind too much.  I had to put the old bushings back in.  

 

Come hell or high water i am getting it running today.  I may get a new carb if it doesn't settle down. At the same time I will try to set up the timing.

 

Regards

M 

[Dudeland]

Update # 2 today.  New carb and the thing is purring like a kitten.  Used the "Jetting Prescription", still seems to be running lean so I bumped up the primary idle to a 65.  I will work out the details later when i install the AFR. 

 

Now to dial in the timing. 

 

M
 

[tisalover]

Mark, thanks for the excellent description on your 123 distributor set up, really appreciate the troubleshooting. I will set mine up next weekend. Best regards, Peter