Transmission flange removal - advice please

[worzella]

Believe it or not, not many hits on search for "transmission flange" or "flange removal".

 

But I had 1/2 success today and 1/2 needs your advice. The right f'in tool for the f'in job 

to get the transmission flange nut off. I wiped the cob webs off my compressor, fired up the 

impact wrench and zip-zip that nut was off. 

 

I used an alternate method from the Marshall/Jim G  steel bar and 

just tied the flange ears to the two holes for the shifter unit. Worked nicely.

 

But as life is cruel... my joy of nut removal was short lived when I pondered getting that f'in

flange off of the output shaft. Been PB blasting it and need to add heat, but I started

using a puller. I am afraid I might break the ears off of the flange or worse, push too much pressure 

down on to the output shaft and screw up some internals of the transmission. 

 

But my one search hit from Bill Williams shows him doing the same thing with a more mac-daddy puller. 

 

Advice? I am tapping the flange with a lead hammer, PB blasting it and cranking the puller. Any other suggestions....

Going down to heat the bitch up... and maybe to auto parts store for a bigger puller!!!

 

Thanks - Randy 

Edited June 10, 2017 by worzella
speelin

[jgerock]

Randy--- glad your shift tower mounting bosses didn't break or crack when you used them for leverage.   A three or four jaw puller should get the flange off the shaft.  

 

Curious about your user avatar.  Please explain the brunette on the bed (if you want to disclose).

[williamggruff]

I'm just here for moral support. I give you big thumbs up for using the right tool--a beer cooler--for the job. That's my go to tool of choice for solving and/or creating most of life's more challenging problems. 

[worzella]

Ha ha - yes, I was worried too about having a nice nut off, but having to buy a new end cover because the shifter mount towers exploded.. but everything held together. 

 

I just got back from auto parts store and bought a hefty puller and a nice puller called a "timing gear puller". Very simple.. a threaded rod and a bar that takes two bolts that can slide along the bar. Almost made for this problem.

 

And the lovely lady is my beautiful Romanian wife... The cars there (Dacia) are not that spectacular, but the women certainly are

 

Next time I get up to DC I would love to share a beer or a few!! I am close in Raleigh and have been dying to get up to DC/NVA

 

Thanks - Randy  

 

[jgerock]

33 minutes ago, williamggruff said:

I'm just here for moral support. I give you big thumbs up for using the right tool--a beer cooler--for the job. That's my go to tool of choice for solving and/or creating most of life's more challenging problems. 

I thought you only drank from growlers..

 

I too have that blue roller cooler.

[worzella]

Ahh... sweet victory and closure.. Miller Time!!

 

Timing gear puller was the right f'in tool for the job.... got the flange out!!

 

Popped the cover and found 2 pretty trashed looking shims...

 

Ready to clean up and install new gasket and seal. 

 

Does the output shaft bearing need to be greased, or I assume instead it is all tranny fluid that lubes it.

 

Woo hoo... the input side should be easy compared to this pain in the ass...

 

Randy 

 

 

[halboyles]

8 minutes ago, worzella said:

found 2 pretty trashed looking shims.

 

That seems to be the case in most trannies I replace the seals in.  They are usually so shot that you have to mic the space to get new ones that fit correctly.  

 

Luckily, those shims are mostly still available.  Just search for 23 12 1 630 161 and a list of various thicknesses will show up.  The shims fit both 4 and 5 speed trannies.

[jgerock]

Good news Randy!  Glad you were successful and used a puller.  Looks like the 4 holes in the flange (yoke) are straight. Some I have seen were ovaled maybe due to the loosening of the guibo bolts.  When installing the new output shaft seal, drive it in a few millimeters below the outer edge (instructions per the Blue book) and clean everything very well. Use some gasket sealer (not RTV) on the flange gasket.  

 

Output bearing is lubricated by the tranny fluid- no grease required. Check the bearing first - spin to listen for any noises. 

 

BTW- thanks for clarifying the avatar. 

[Robocopywriter]

Can anyone tell me what size the flange nut is?

[Preyupy]

30mm,  you will need a thin walled socket.  Don't forget to remove the lock plate before trying to get the socket on the nut. 

[halboyles]

30 mm

[Robocopywriter]

?

[Kuntacharlie]

Is the shim there to locate the output shaft bearing or is it there to locate the place where the  shaft seal rubs the output shaft , or something else?

[Danz3]

I've searched and read everything I could regarding the removal of the 30mm transmission output flange nut.  I have everything removed for access, guibo, lock plate, transmission mount etc. so access is fine.  My question is how do I brace the transmission so I can apply enough torque to the nut?  I guess I don't see how the leverage bars work as I've seen in other posts.  I don't want to use any of the housing as it could break.  I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but this is turning out to be the worst job yet on my car.  When I do block the flange from turning the transmission simply moves as the motor mounts flex.  Any help would be appreciated.

[jgerock]

2 hours ago, Danz3 said:

I've searched and read everything I could regarding the removal of the 30mm transmission output flange nut.  I have everything removed for access, guibo, lock plate, transmission mount etc. so access is fine.  My question is how do I brace the transmission so I can apply enough torque to the nut?  I guess I don't see how the leverage bars work as I've seen in other posts.  I don't want to use any of the housing as it could break.  I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but this is turning out to be the worst job yet on my car.  When I do block the flange from turning the transmission simply moves as the motor mounts flex.  Any help would be appreciated.

No workbench or vice required.  This position is to tighten the nut.  Flip the angle iron over to the other side to loosen.

 

And when the engine and trans are still in the car, I have used this very crude contraption. Can let it wedge against the tunnel when loosening/tightening.

Edited January 16, 2019 by jgerock