'75 BMW 2002 starting issues, choke? oil?

[2002Diver]

5 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

1) check the tension on the choke plates. With a cold engine press the gas pedal in and out once. Then check the choke plates. They need to be closed but not closed with alot of tension. Just closed. Think Goldy locks.

 

I was looking at adjusting the choke plates and I figured I would upload of video of what my cold start loos like. It doesnt look like my choke plates close ever. Also I realize my engine was about to turn over and start in the "cold start" video but I wanted to show you guys the process I go thru with pressing the choke in. Last night I was stuck in East Palo Alto for 30 mins trying to crank it with the key before I had the brilliant idea to press the choke in. I didnt need to used to have

to press the choke it would just take a few seconds for the engine to catch, i live in CA btw where its currently 75 degrees if that helps anything. 

 

1) should I still go after the choke plates or should I be looking more towards idle speed screw? I noticed I'm idling at about 600 rpm.

 

edit: I let the car warm up and at hot idle I am at 900rpm and 22psi oil pressure or 2bar ( it looks like).

 

Already Warm:

 

Edited June 16, 2017 by 2002Diver
spelling, hot idle metrics

[Stevenc22]

Idle speed doesnt matter much until you actually get the car to fire and you cant do that with the choke set wrong. Definitely raise the idle a little but that isn't going to solve cold start.

 

Here is the correct choke tension on a 32/36

 

 

Edited June 16, 2017 by Stevenc22

[Stevenc22]

With a manual choke the choke plates should be lightly closed when you manually engage the choke

Edited June 16, 2017 by Stevenc22

[2002Diver]

12 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

With a manual choke the choke plates should be lightly closed when you manually engage the choke

Stevenc22, so if mine look like they are locked in the open position what am I actually doing when pressing the choke, it doesnt look like its messing with the plates at all?

 

if I adjust them to close wont I further starve the engine of oxygen causing it to not start.. even less then before?

[Son of Marty]

On most chokes you pull the knob to close and with the knob in they should stand straight up= no choke.

[Stevenc22]

Choke lever gets pulled out to engage the choke and pushed in to turn off the choke. 

 

In the pulled out position the choke plates should just close.

 

Cars need less oxygen when cold to get the right air fuel ratio.

 

Once it starts you push in the choke button to disable the choke and open the butterflies.

[2002Diver]

Hmm ok I totally had it backwards. 

 

edit: will go verify now. 

 

edit2: plates not closing no matter what position the choke is in. video uploading now.

Edited June 16, 2017 by 2002Diver

[Son of Marty]

Also 4 pumps on the gas maybe too much, every car is a little different but try 2 pumps and see if it stars faster.

[2002Diver]

on a good note it did start right up, although thats probably because its still warm, but it does look like my plates are stuck in the open position. I wonder what the hell the choke button is even doing at this point lol. 

 

 

Edited June 16, 2017 by 2002Diver

[Stevenc22]

Make sure choke cable isn't broken. If you see some movement on the choke then cable is fine. Pull choke out, go over to carb. Loosen grab screw on cable next to choke. Gently close the choke plates, retighten grub screw on cable.

[Mike Self]

FYI if you're using a VDO oil pressure gauge with dual senders--one for the gauge, the other for the warning light in the dash--the gauge sender unit illuminates the warning light at 1 bar (14.7 psi), while the factory warning light sender causes the light to illuminate at .5 bar, or 7.4 psi.  So if your oil light is coming on at a low idle, it's coming on at nearly 15psi, not a bit over 7.

 

If you have a stock cam, the idle should be set at approximately 900 rpm-- a little higher if you have A/C.

 

mike

[2002Diver]

MIKE,

 

Interesting, they seem to come on simultaneously. I have to pay close attention next time.

[TobyB]

And to toss this in, the electric senders aren't all THAT reliable at low pressures-

if your lights are all wired to a 1 bar sender, and it's flickering a bit at hot, low idle,

you're doing just fine.

 

t

[bitbckt]

20 hours ago, TobyB said:

Big Interested Toenails On Grout? 

 

Hah! Bob Is The Oil Guy

[JayMac]

For oil I like AMSOIL AMO 10w40 wt and has high zinc. Not sure  if this is true with these but I was taught that when setting the choke you press the throttle a bit. Something to do with setting the carb without putting lots of stress on the cable.