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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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1 hour ago, worzella said:

Does the puddle box (like that too) cover really deaden that much sound?

 

I can't answer this, having never run one.  I did buy one, but then sold it.

It seems to me that more of the sound is coming from the exhaust side, as is the heat.

 

I do really appreciate the inner foam rubber cover, that has slots for the pedal levers.

I wish it was a little  more durable though.  

They tear really easily, while being stretched over the pedals... which I have done too many times recently.

   

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Pretty sure I have one of those hiding in my D/S frame rail still. I should probably dig it out.


Ha! I recently cleaned out the DS frame rail pocket on mine and found a missing HAZET socket I'd been looking for, several bolts, a hose clamp, and a wine bottle cork from the 87. Hope it was a good vintage!!

On my news- got the motor together minus a few pieces.
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Made a custom clutch alignment tool on the lathe, because it was impossible to find one.
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And started to piece all the bits and bobs onto the front subframe for assembly later this week.
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Just now, kbmb02 said:

 

Looks tidy.

 

If you're not running a self-oiling camshaft, then - I believe - you're missing the oil spray bar....

Yep...

 

Unfortunately I'm trying to source new crush-washers, so that's been added to the "fix before starting" list as I move on to other things. Don't worry!! haha. 

 

That said... given your expertise in motor building, you should wander on over to 'Build Questions' thread and let me know what you think about my valve clearance/cam advance :) would be super appreciated!!

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25 minutes ago, kbmb02 said:

 

Looks tidy.

 

If you're not running a self-oiling camshaft, then - I believe - you're missing the oil spray bar....

 On second thought God damnit...

 

I don't know what I was thinking that I could put the bar in after.... I spent two days trying to source those damn crush washers and though eff-it. I'll move along. F*&*K. I'm feeling like an idiot and hoping I can figure out an intelligent way to remedy this error. 

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25 minutes ago, OriginalOwner said:

Scoob,

   where you have that chain hook located on the back end ..... I'm seeing that as a way to snap that cast iron, what with cast iron being so brittle and such.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Yah? I figured that was exactly it's purpose was for lifting the motor. Same as the loop on the alternator bracket.

 

Well, good news is it's completely free of the lift now, so if there was a bullet waiting, I dodged it! It's all jacks and supports from here to get it into the car. 

 

I also ordered a new HG. Better safe than sorry!!

Edited by 2002Scoob
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Rear block eye is most certainly a lift point, odd how the engine lies at 30 degrees when picked up by them both [emoji39]
 
Interesting Left side motor mount, it does away with the limiting arm feature of the OE part.


They're Ireland Engineering urethane pieces. I've heard they've had issues in the past, but I've had these in for the last 2 years or so and they've held up quite well I think.


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Stripped everything off the survivor '75 inka car and prepared to bring the paint back to life (still looking for signs of any repaint, the only possibility is the hood ... maybe - the rest is very original). This car is almost ready to put on the market, one member here has early dibs for a test drive. Or, BaT. -KB

 

 

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Prolly the most rewarding day happened today.

But, starting with yesterday I pulled the head off in record time (12 min, for all those who are intimidated by such things) and mating surfaces all still look good.

Ordered a new head gasket and was able to locate the crush washers for the oiler bar (a 6-series part, ironically)

This morning was also able to track down the stupid rubber gaskets for the track bar (also ironically a 6-series shared part)

And then..... did this completely solo :) mildly proud of myself.

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Went up and in without a hitch. The combo of a lift with a floor jack is perfect.

Tomorrow evening- reconnecting clutch, re-installing front suspension, and if the new HG and crush washers arrive, re-install the head.

For now.... time to get a twilight beirgarten beer to celebrate!



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Well, it was yesterday, but...

  • Bled the brakes and clutch.
  • Changed the engine and transmission mounts.
  • In the process, verified that my 11/30/70-build car is a member of the greenish-gray subframe paint club (pic below).
  • Snugged down a loose transmission-mount bracket bolt, which was a bit of a smoking gun for the lingering 4k-rpm vibration--a test drive will have to confirm.
  • Reworked the engine-compartment fuel hoses to reduce the tendency toward vapor lock.
  • Drained the coolant, making the usual horrible mess of the garage floor from the block drain.
  • Changed the coolant hoses, including one gray, almost-certainly-47-year-old-original bugger between the heater core and valve (pic below).
  • Cleaned and "rebuilt" the heater valve with a new o-ring. Now the formerly painfully stiff temperature lever is smooth as butter.
  • Discovered that I'd mistakenly ordered the heater hoses for an 18mm valve and core instead of the 14mm ones my car has.
  • Learned that the proper return hose wouldn't be available until after the fall Kentucky get-together.
  • Cobbled together inlet hoses from bulk 5/8" hose, with only one minor kink by the cylinder head--it'll do until I can get the proper molded one.
  • Realized that the fitting on the intake manifold is 21-22mm, and there's no way 5/8" hose is getting on there.
  • Tried to cinch the improper 18mm hose onto a 14mm fitting. Yes, it leaked.
  • Pulled off the incorrect hose, making an even bigger mess of the garage floor.
  • Called it a night, but dreamed up a possible kludge using some 3/4" hose, a 3/4"X5/8" coupler and the 5/8" hose. We'll see if it works after I get it on (it'll just be a temporary fix even if it does).

-Dave

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Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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