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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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2 hours ago, Simeon said:

Ken,

 

This is a good opportunity to post that awesome video of that engine on the test stand that revs up like flicking a switch. 

 

I was literally watching it last night.  Makes me giggle every time...

 

 

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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Found one of the big causes of my erratic idling, cold start injector helping out a little more than it should...  With the injector line not clamped the AFR gauge would vary +/- 0.5 pretty easy, sometimes more.  With it clamped, it varies about +/- 0.1, maybe. 

 

And started pulling through to 5k rpm today.  A balanced engine is a nice engine.

 

Oh, and where can I get some new vacuum line?  Locally all I can source is 3/8"...

cold_start_injector_clamped.jpg

Edited by irdave

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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23 minutes ago, irdave said:

Oh, and where can I get some new vacuum line?  Locally all I can source is 3/8".

 

There are many sources (I'd imagine), but Belmetric has some good metric hardware, hoses, etc. - https://www.belmetric.com/metric-hoses-c-14.html

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John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

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‘73- I separated the replacement floor pan from the kick plate. I removed the kick plate from the car and trimmed the new one to fit. I replaced a rotten section of the inner fender. I cut the worst of the frame rail off and replaced a thin section of the frame rail top plate. 

 

I’ll fit the replacement section of the frame rail after the floor pans are welded in. 027413D1-85D1-4CE7-8684-0C28330CBA51.thumb.jpeg.4a168d3ac313d6e76f960e277901343a.jpegBDB8499D-5FBE-46BE-8E12-1710A6EC92AC.thumb.jpeg.93d672af89f317e3d6771e319cf15796.jpeg6152FBD6-5B40-4EAF-8A35-49F276C4A54F.thumb.jpeg.6953f1775798fd2b04888bbadd9ca782.jpegB0C2FBBF-462B-4B44-B5E8-350DF2EC8383.thumb.jpeg.d44f71da8537e7f48bbe1d9029b2e9bf.jpeg

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‘73- I repaired the rust holes in the kick plate. It was rotten where the tabs were spot welded to retain the firewall pad. I also replaced a section of outer lower corner of the kick plate. I also recreated the rotten flange that connects the kick plate to the inner rocker. After all of that welding I fit the kick plate to the car and welded it in. I feel compelled to mention that all of patches are being made from OEM vintage steel. Trying to keep it correct.

 

A8DFE11A-7CAC-437E-B1F5-A65D332F84A3.thumb.jpeg.a373a0b2b5c1663dc12ba1873ec342b0.jpeg

 

I goofed and forgot to weld up the holes in the kick plate above the frame rail. I’ll make a backing spoon from some copper pipe the next time I get out to work on the car. The kick plate is flexible enough that I can sneak backer behind it to weld against. 

 

I’m hoping to have the floor pan and frame rail fitted and welded in sometime next week.

Edited by VWJake
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On 7/16/2018 at 7:18 PM, TNan said:

What method did use to sand?  And how did you manage to get in the hard-to-reach places i.e. the area where the wiper motor is located?

I started with an angle grinder and 3M stripping disks.  I followed up with a die grinder and a smaller stripping disc to get as much of the tight spots as possible. Reality is that I’ve been hand sanding the tight areas with 60 and 80 grit, like beneath the fuse box, beneath the front windshield, all of the corners, seams, etc. I use a variety of sanding blocks to get into edges and corners.  I’m also using wire wheels on a drill.  I’m fortunate that I only have to remove paint as there is very little rust.

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On 7/25/2018 at 6:57 AM, Bibm5 said:

Finally got all my dash lights working. I had a bad bulb holder but that wasn't the only issue. The contact material on the board had worn out over the years so it couldn't complete the circuit. I ended up running a couple jumper wires and now the lights work great! 20180724_222812.jpeg20180724_222829.jpegb0d8b1c7c4f74eb16c193bbb743e8ce7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Did you Jump ALL your bulbs like this on the cluster? I fried a circuit when i put in a LED light on the circuit board part. 

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I crawled under the car to replace the gear selector knuckle in an attempt to reduce some slop in the shifter. It was then I noticed cracks in the guibo. I doubt the local shop stocks them so I may have a few days of tinkering while waiting for parts. 

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On 7/29/2018 at 9:20 PM, irdave said:

Found one of the big causes of my erratic idling, cold start injector helping out a little more than it should...  With the injector line not clamped the AFR gauge would vary +/- 0.5 pretty easy, sometimes more.  With it clamped, it varies about +/- 0.1, maybe. 

 

And started pulling through to 5k rpm today.  A balanced engine is a nice engine.

 

Oh, and where can I get some new vacuum line?  Locally all I can source is 3/8"...

cold_start_injector_clamped.jpg

Dave- the idle speed screw is putting your throttle body cam in too far. It should be closer to the "pin tool" hole. What speed is it idling?

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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4 hours ago, jgerock said:

Dave- the idle speed screw is putting your throttle body cam in too far. It should be closer to the "pin tool" hole. What speed is it idling?

 

950-ish as per the tach in the car; feels a little lower than that.

 

AFR is 12 ish at idle (early on first cup of coffee.)  It wouldn't idle smoothly unless it was at 10.5 before- tired engine.  I've got the new engine in now, it's helping with that.

 

KFish has 250k miles and it sat for 30 years.  Injectors are around 425 psi opening pressure.

 

Thoughts?

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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