What did you do to your 2002 today !

[PaulTWinterton]

30 minutes ago, OldBlue2002 said:

Not sure if I'm satisfied with the results as the intent of the swap was to help achieve a 3 o'clock temperature reading during normal driving conditions.

 

As a veteran of a cooling war with my tii, I would say that you are right to be dissatisfied with the results.  You should be able to maintain 3 o'clock on a 90F day.

Things I would check:
-  Once the engine is cold, the coolant level in the rad s/b approx an inch from the top.  Definitely covering the tops of the fins, maybe 1/2" above the fins.  Too low and there is not sufficient coolant to maintain the correct temp at the sensor.  Fluctuating heater temp at full open is another indicator that the coolant level is too low.

-  Drain the block at the bung under #4 exhaust manifold.  Any crud will be evidence of blocked flow IMHO.

-  Rule out a defective thermostat.  Heating on a stove should show you the valve opening at 170-185F.  More opinions (advice) required as I haven't done this in a very long time.

-  Probably not an issue, but 50/50 coolant mix is a consideration.

-  Burping the system is not a bad idea.  The heater valve should be open when filling the system. Once you've filled the rad, you squeeze the upper hose a few times to help release air to the top of the engine (and heater core).  Having the car on an incline can help, but definitely not on a downhill decline.

 

That's all I've got.  Hope some of it helps.  Good luck. 

[g_force]

OldBlue2002, a vacuum coolant filler helps, if you also access to a compressor.  It pulls a vacuum on the cooling system, and then sucks the coolant in to ensure no voids.  I bought this one on Amazon:http://a.co/d/4e0tsMb.  I've used it on my '02 and repeatedly on my e36 track car to good result.  

[BarneyT]

Started disassembling the sub frames for rebuilding and painting...

[2002#3]

Today I cleaned a set of original BMW FPS alloys and prepared them for paint.

  

Q:  Does the lug nut below appear to be the correct type to use with (these) alloys?  This one and its siblings seem to seat nicely onto these rims.

Q:  Do any of you know a source for aluminum valve stems?

 

Larry

 

[BMWonly]

Pulled the head on my (new) 1970 2002 to inspect the damage, trying to see why it doesn't run. Some deep marks in the combustion chamber and one piston. Cylinder walls look perfect. Hope with a little cleaning and honing we'll get it to run on Monday...

['76mintgrün'02]

Today I did some plumbing.

 

The AFR says I'm rich, so I replaced the 145 primary air corrector with a 160.

It was such a nice improvement, that I might try the 165 tomorrow.

 

After swapping them, I checked the timing and it was right where I'd left it.

60 degrees dwell, 10 degrees advance at idle and BB at 1850.

 

I turned the AFR gauge around on its pivot, so I could see it through the windshield, while adjusting the idle mixture screw.  It was fun to see that turning the screw in a quarter turn changed the AFR reading from 12.25 to 13.  If I went any higher/leaner it ran a little rougher, so I left it there. 

 

The secondary side is also rich, so I may go from the 55 'idle' jet to a 50 that I have and can go bigger on the air corrector after that, if needed.  I am just trying to see what I can do with jets on hand, to start with... while I try to figure out what I want to end up with.  This is all new to me.

 

The other plumbing work was on the vacuum system. 

 

I reinstalled the ported vacuum line, T-ed into the advance pod's line and ran it through the firewall

to a gauge that I strapped to the AFR gauge with a dainty little VW hose clamp.  (I might splurge and buy a piece of black rubber vacuum tubing to run up to the gauge).

I also plumbed the manifold vacuum gauge in again and just laid it in the console for now.

The most fun plumbing project was installing the little gauge under the hood. 

It uses a simple aluminum bracket to hang it off of the existing tab, next to the vacuum cut off solenoid. 

It is T-ed into the line that feeds the distributor. 

 

The solenoid is wired to the defroster switch (again), so pulling the switch out cuts the vacuum to the pod.

 

My pod gives six degrees advance (twelve crank) between five and eleven inches of mercury.  It is fun to pull the switch and see the gauge drop to zero and interesting to feel what removing that advance does. 

 

I noticed that I get about half to one inch of ported vacuum at idle.  I think I am within the allowable turns in on the idle speed screw, but I will double check.  I will also see if turning it out more drops the vacuum to zero.  I am a little concerned about the problem of pulling fuel through the transition holes at idle.

 

Now that I can watch the AFR as well as vacuum, driving has gotten even more entertaining.

[Conserv]

8 hours ago, 2002#2 said:

Today I cleaned a set of original BMW FPS alloys and prepared them for paint.

  

Q:  Does the lug nut below appear to be the correct type to use with (these) alloys?  This one and its siblings seem to seat nicely onto these rims.

Q:  Do any of you know a source for aluminum valve stems?

 

Larry

 

 

The lug nuts look right, Larry.

 

I’ve purchased the metal valve stems from BMW within the last two years, which, of course, is no guarantee they remain available... ?

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2583-USA-10-1972-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=36_0363

 

Rims look great!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited September 16, 2018 by Conserv

[John_in_VA]

2 hours ago, Conserv said:

The lug nuts look right, Larry.

I’ve purchased the metal valve stems from BMW within the last two years, which, of course, is no guarantee they remain available... ?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2583-USA-10-1972-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=36_0363

 

They appear to still be available:

BMW Screw-In Valve - Part Number 36-12-1-119-332

List Price:    $8.00
Sale Price (approx) from vendors with online sales:    $6.34

 

I had problems with them leaking on a set of factory alloys.

Edited September 16, 2018 by John_in_VA

[Conserv]

8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Today I did some plumbing.

 

The AFR says I'm rich, so I replaced the 145 primary air corrector with a 160.

It was such a nice improvement, that I might try the 165 tomorrow.

 

After swapping them, I checked the timing and it was right where I'd left it.

60 degrees dwell, 10 degrees advance at idle and BB at 1850.

 

I turned the AFR gauge around on its pivot, so I could see it through the windshield, while adjusting the idle mixture screw.  It was fun to see that turning the screw in a quarter turn changed the AFR reading from 12.25 to 13.  If I went any higher/leaner it ran a little rougher, so I left it there. 

 

The secondary side is also rich, so I may go from the 55 'idle' jet to a 50 that I have and can go bigger on the air corrector after that, if needed.  I am just trying to see what I can do with jets on hand, to start with... while I try to figure out what I want to end up with.  This is all new to me.

 

The other plumbing work was on the vacuum system. 

 

I reinstalled the ported vacuum line, T-ed into the advance pod's line and ran it through the firewall

to a gauge that I strapped to the AFR gauge with a dainty little VW hose clamp.  (I might splurge and buy a piece of black rubber vacuum tubing to run up to the gauge).

I also plumbed the manifold vacuum gauge in again and just laid it in the console for now.

The most fun plumbing project was installing the little gauge under the hood. 

It uses a simple aluminum bracket to hang it off of the existing tab, next to the vacuum cut off solenoid. 

It is T-ed into the line that feeds the distributor. 

 

The solenoid is wired to the defroster switch (again), so pulling the switch out cuts the vacuum to the pod.

 

My pod gives six degrees advance (twelve crank) between five and eleven inches of mercury.  It is fun to pull the switch and see the gauge drop to zero and interesting to feel what removing that advance does. 

 

I noticed that I get about half to one inch of ported vacuum at idle.  I think I am within the allowable turns in on the idle speed screw, but I will double check.  I will also see if turning it out more drops the vacuum to zero.  I am a little concerned about the problem of pulling fuel through the transition holes at idle.

 

Now that I can watch the AFR as well as vacuum, driving has gotten even more entertaining.

 

Hummph!  No inelegant VW hoseclamps on the ‘61 F-350 (at left in photo). That truck is obviously decades ahead of these German machines.... ?

 

The faceplate is even color-coded. I’ll do whatever I have to do to keep that baby in the green!  ?

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

Edited September 16, 2018 by Conserv

[hankeester]

Fixed the short in the license plate lights, adjusted the solex at 2.5 turns from the stop position on the idle mixture, then fined turned the throttle stop screw to get 900 RPM's. Things to do: order Mark 3 woody steering wheel, clean engine bay up with degreaser, replace all window seals (originals are still on and in bad shape), get new tires, got some dry rot going on even though there is plenty of tread, pull dash out and replace bulbs, clean up and possibly put new gauge  Silver Dollar" Heidegger overlays on gauges in the dash.

[worzella]

Ha ha Mint. Add one more gauge “sign” that says “Look up! check the road!”

[worzella]

38 minutes ago, hankeester said:

Fixed the short in the license plate lights, adjusted the solex at 2.5 turns from the stop position on the idle mixture, then fined turned the throttle stop screw to get 900 RPM's. Things to do: order Mark 3 woody steering wheel, clean engine bay up with degreaser, replace all window seals (originals are still on and in bad shape), get new tires, got some dry rot going on even though there is plenty of tread, pull dash out and replace bulbs, clean up and possibly put new gauge  Silver Dollar" Heidegger overlays on gauges in the dash.

My Firestone guy says he would have no problem getting these. I need to buy a set and store them

 

['76mintgrün'02]

That's cool Steve!  My '69 Ford Torino had something similar called the Motor Minder, which told you when you were getting the best mileage.  (in the green)  Obviously, it gets connected to manifold vacuum, not ported.

I put two gauges in my car a while back, to try and see the difference in how ported and manifold vacuum behave (for timing reasons).   

 

Yes Randy, having them UP by the windshield makes a BIG difference.  I am pretty paranoid about taking my eyes off the road.  I am liking the idea of Mike Self's three gauge pod where the seat belt light is, for that reason.

Tom

 

 

[Swiss 2002Tii]

Replaced my fuel pump and expansion chamber, and added a fuel filter before the pump.

Before (Have I mentioned how much I hate Dinitrol?):

 

I wanted to replace the cloth-covered 12mm hose, but the hole in my frame didn't have sufficient diameter:

I still had fumes in the trunk, so before I used my drill and step-bit, I cleared the air:

 

My fuel system has been pretty clean, but I did have some gunk in the mesh screens to start with, so I'm adding a filter between the tank and the pump:

 

Pump and filter in place:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was having a problem with current draw on the pump,  so I completed the wiring from the block under the Dashboard to the pump with 3mm conductor wire:

Edited September 16, 2018 by Swiss 2002Tii
additional info

[hankeester]

3 hours ago, worzella said:

My Firestone guy says he would have no problem getting these. I need to buy a set and store them

 

 

 

I'll look into those, not real familiar with availability of this particular tire size for these cars but was hoping to get into a set of Pirelli's. They're a softer tire but it's not like

I put a lot of miles on mine.