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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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Replaced both O-Rings in my fuel tank in hopes of finding my trunk fuel smell. Already replaced the fuel vent line and grommet to the correct ones. The fuel pick up looked like new but the smaller one for the fuel gage was flat as a pancake.

 

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Polaris ‘68

 

Momma and the Boy went away for a few days so it’s time for Daddy to get some work done on his car. 

 

I shuffled things around in the garage to get the car moved to the middle of the garage. I disconnected and pulled the driveline. My loader tractor only just handled the assembly, but it did manage to haul it safely to storage in the backyard.

 

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My biggest struggle with this car has been trying to measure it to ensure its square before I put it back together. I stumbled onto another smart little German thing about these cars. The hole for the rear subframe outer bolts and the forward most front frame rail bolt holes all have a 16mm dia pilot. 

 

I waited til HF had a sale on 6t jack stands and bought 4. McMaster Carr has 1”-14 threaded rod and the corresponding nuts for a reasonable price. Each rod is 1’ long with a 16mm dia nub that’s 16mm tall turned at one end. I took 4 nuts and turned them to exactly 34mm dia. I also cut a groove in each one for alignment purposes. 

 

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Tomorrow I’ll get the laser level set up and level the car out. I’m hoping for the body to fall within factory specs. If all is well I’ll start welding panels back in. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, VWJake said:

My biggest struggle with this car has been trying to measure it to ensure its square before I put it back together. I stumbled onto another smart little German thing about these cars. The hole for the rear subframe outer bolts and the forward most front frame rail bolt holes all have a 16mm dia pilot. 

 

I waited til HF had a sale on 6t jack stands and bought 4. McMaster Carr has 1”-14 threaded rod and the corresponding nuts for a reasonable price. Each rod is 1’ long with a 16mm dia nub that’s 16mm tall turned at one end. I took 4 nuts and turned them to exactly 34mm dia. I also cut a groove in each one for alignment purposes. 

 

70483900-6CB9-4D2F-BC53-48908C395550.thumb.jpeg.849d12e4faebe9f99fdfd1c7b502377a.jpeg

 

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You know we need more pictures of this.

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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Ok, let’s see if I can explain this...

 

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From bottom to top:

There’s a nut welded in the base of each stand. This is intended to carry the weight of the body while I’m adjusted the height of the stand.

The washer is also welded to the stand body. This was intended to give the jam nut something to rest on.

The measuring sleeve was a nut that I’ve turned down to exactly 34mm dia. Giving me a known 17mm to the Center Line of the hole. The Sleeve also has a groove cut in the circ. to give me a horizontal line to measure things from. The sleeve also has a set screw in the side to allow me to lock it to the rod once it’s set. 

 The top nut (has a set screw in it to lock it to the rod) was really just put in place to give me something to turn the rod with. I was assuming that I’d be doing that with weight on the car when I was pondering this design. I found in practice though that I’d use a bottle jack to lift the corner and wind the rod up or down by hand. If I ever use these stands again I’d remove that nut. 

 

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The very tip of each rod has been shouldered down to a 16mm deep 16mm dia nubbin. The idea is that this nubbin keys into the pilots in each of the four holes In using to secure the car. 

 

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With a long enough level this last part isn’t needed, but I have access to one so I’m using a laser level to set these stands up. On its own the level will level itself to the world so all I needed to do was to get it up high enough to work with. Hence the wood blocking and AL plate. This particular level broadcasts a 6mm tall laser band in 360*. 

 

Before setting the body on the stands I set the stands up in matched pairs. The critical distance was from the shoulder to the measuring sleeve line. I tried to get the  overall heights of the stands matched as well.

 

I used the left rocker to set level front to back. I adjusted the rears first with the help of the laser, a pen, and a piece of paper. Laying the paper against the sleeve I’d mark the groove and the top n bottom of the laser band. When those pictures matched side to side I knew that end of the car was level w the world. Wash rinse repeat on the front. I used a jam level to ensure the left rocker was level. Adjust both stands at one end until the rocker was dead nuts level. With only a partial rocker on the right I didn’t want to rely on it, but a quick check showed it matched as well. Several rounds of adjustments to the stands and sleeves got me to 99mm between the shoulder and the sleeve grooves on the rears and 116mm between the cL of the bolt hole and the sleeve grooves on the fronts. 

 

I now know the body is level side to side and front to back. Now it’s time to measure the car and compare it to the Blue Book. Fingers crossed. I’d love to burn some wire today.

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The front of the car doesn’t add up, but i kinda figured that anyway. In the meantime the rear numbers were right in line so I installed the new right outer wheel housing and started welding in the replacement back seat/parcel tray. I’m callin’ it a day. I’m tired and starting to get sloppy. 

 

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6 hours ago, Mike G said:

This makes my plum bob and sharpie method look down right caveman-esque. Nice work!

 

I don’t know that I could finish the measuring job without a plum bob. I just need somewhere level to start from.

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