What did you do to your 2002 today !

[uai]

51 minutes ago, dlhoovler said:

Uai, did you extend your headlight and wiper switches?

Yes common practice back then when having a 3point harness or a static seat belt.

Edited December 21, 2019 by uai

[PaulTWinterton]

2 hours ago, Toca said:

’m stripping the tank down and resesurfacing the bottom with with the suggested chip guard

 

Good plans.  Tank top is somewhere between satin and semigloss.   OEM foam strips suck.  Next time I'll use 1/8" nytrel rubber.  Not sure about ss bolts.  "Unlike metals" issue.  Plated would be my choice.

 

By the look of your tank I would think your sender is good. Generallly the worst problem is excessive rust  from sitting for years without fuel or dirty wires from shellac build up.  If you are inclined you could open it and gently clean the wires with 600 grit.  Otherwise inspect it for serious corrosion.   

 

 

[2002cool2]

Took a drive up to Sutter Creek with SH02 fellas on a little overcast. Had a small breakfast and coffee at Element Restaurant in Handford Inn

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[ScottA]

Moved my neglected, tii engined '71 away from the fence and back on the driveway. 

I've let it sit too long - want & need to make it roadworthy again.

 

 

One reason for the neglect being a minor obsession with the beemers

 

 

anyway - got to get the Nevada up & running. Even this small accomplishment makes me happy.

 

 

 

Edited December 21, 2019 by ScottA

[Stu]

I remounted my front bumper on my ‘69. New brackets and seals.  I read up on it here on the ‘Q and got it all done in around 2.5 hours with minimal bloodshed.

Edited December 22, 2019 by Stu

[Toca]

4 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

Good plans.  Tank top is somewhere between satin and semigloss.   OEM foam strips suck.  Next time I'll use 1/8" nytrel rubber.  Not sure about ss bolts.  "Unlike metals" issue.  Plated would be my choice.

 

By the look of your tank I would think your sender is good. Generallly the worst problem is excessive rust  from sitting for years without fuel or dirty wires from shellac build up.  If you are inclined you could open it and gently clean the wires with 600 grit.  Otherwise inspect it for serious corrosion.   

 

 

 

The Sending unit is take-apart-able?  Ill have to search the site to find a tutorial!!!  Thank you Paul Winterton for your suggestions. Any thoughts  on tha Butal tape idea, Paul?

 

[Toca]

I cranked the engine (why do people call these internal combustion units “MOTORS”) over after disconnecting the coil.  I wanted to know that 1) The new battery was good (12.6v output) and, 2) and that the starter wasn’t seized and, 3) to prime the nether parts with some oil.  Since I had to go thru most of the GROUND.cable areas  it took me a few minutes to clean all those contacts.  I know when the ENGINE comes  out Ill be doing a fair amount of restoration a replacement but while the ENGINE is in the car Ill see if it cranks on... 

I allowed it to crank just using the starter and she did well but I don’t have headlights.  My Emergency/Hazard flasher works.  Since I dis-con the coil i rewired that area to make it look cleaner and to give me an idea of how i can keep clutter and wires at a minimum. Put it all back together along with a new red Positive cable ( connects to the thingy on the starter (solenoid?capcitor?regulator?) I picked up while buying the battery. 

 

BEFORE

 

 

AFTER

Ill definetly remove and restore the coil but this wire wrapped area looks neat IMHO.

 

Edited December 21, 2019 by Toca

[ray_]

7 minutes ago, Toca said:

I cranked the engine (why do people call these internal combustion units “MOTORS”) over after disconnecting the coil.  I wanted to know that 1) The new battery was good (12.6v output) and, 2) and that the starter wasn’t seized and, 3) to prime the nether parts with some oil.  Since I had to go thru most of the GROUND.cable areas  it took me a few minutes to clean all those contacts.  I know when the ENGINE comes  out Ill be doing a fair amount of restoration a replacement but while the ENGINE is in the car Ill see if it cranks on... 

I allowed it to crank just using the starter and she did well but I don’t have headlights.  My Emergency/Hazard flasher works.  Since I dis-con the coil i rewired that area to make it look cleaner and to give me an idea of how i can keep clutter and wires at a minimum. Put it all back together along with a new red Positive cable ( connects to the thingy on the starter (solenoid?capcitor?regulator?) I picked up while buying the battery. 

 

BEFORE

 

 

AFTER

Ill definetly remove and restore the coil but this wire wrapped area looks neat IMHO.

 

 

What position was the key in when you didn't have headlights?

 

Cheers,

[Toca]

I cranked the engine (why do people call these internal combustion units “MOTORS”) over after disconnecting the coil.  I wanted to know that 1) The new battery was good (12.6v output) and, 2) and that the starter wasn’t seized and, 3) to prime the nether parts with some oil.  Since I had to go thru most of the GROUND.cable areas  it took me a few minutes to clean all those contacts.  I know when the ENGINE comes  out Ill be doing a fair amount of restoration a replacement but while the ENGINE is in the car Ill see if it cranks on... 

I allowed it to crank just using the starter and she did well but I don’t have headlights.  My Emergency/Hazard flasher works.  Since I dis-con the coil i rewired that area to make it look cleaner and to give me an idea of how i can keep clutter and wires at a minimum. Put it all back together along with a new red Positive cable ( connects to the thingy on the starter (solenoid?capcitor?regulator?) I picked up while buying the battery. 

 

BEFORE

 

 

AFTER

Ill definetly remove and restore the coil but this wire wrapped area looks neat IMHO.

 

[Toca]

16 minutes ago, ray_ said:

What position was the key in when you didn't have headlights?

 

Cheers,

I tried the lights right after i connected the new battery. No Go.  Then once i got the flasher working i tried it with the key/ign. In FART and NO GO. I was wondering when I would get a visit from Ray.  For the last year before i decided to break this car and put it back together, I would snoop around the FAQ and i always laughed my head when I read your entries.  Your either British or a Brilliant Know-it-All because your dry/sarcastic/stoic responses crack me the f*&#@ UP!!!!!!  

 

Cheers,

TocaChakra

Edited December 21, 2019 by Toca

[nesky45]

So...I have owned my 1972 2002 for 11 years now.  I refer affectionally to her as Baby.  When I first purchased her back it 2008 I couldn't wait to drive her down from Oregon to the Bay Area Swap and Show.  The car ran flawlessly down to the Bay Area.  On the way home I must have gotten some bad gas, because the car began to sputter and choke while we were trying to make it over Mt Shasta.  My now deceased wife was encouraging the car "Go Baby". We made it over the mountain and back to Oregon without more drama, but at that point I decided to sort the mechanics.

 

Over the years I have rebuilt the engine, installing 9:5 piano top pistons, 292 cam, 32/36 Weber.  Electronic Ignition, 5 speed tranny, 3 core radiator, and put the a/c in working order.   Not to mention all the little things you do along the way to keep her in tip top shape.  

 

On to my point.  The throw out bearing was making noise and in need of replacement.  I was not sure this was the problem, fearing it was the transmission.  I called Metric Mechanic and we chatted about rebuilt tranny, and also a differential.  Well, once the tranny was checked out ,we knew it was throwout bearing, but after talking with the mechanic we decided to replace the differential also. (Mine was original 3:64, and very tired.  I put in the 3:91 rebuilt from Metric.)

 

All I can say is Wow!  The car always ran great and was fun to drive. But the change in differential makes all the other mods I did over the years come alive.  Better torque thru out the power band.  5th was a sleepy overdrive, and now it actually responds when I step on it, rather than having to drop her into 4th.  

 

11 year and I still love this little car.

 

 Glad to see so many of you grabbing them and restoring them. They are well worth the effort.

 

Thanks

Craig

 

 

[ray_]

10 minutes ago, nesky45 said:

 

 

 

Great pic, and car

[ray_]

2 hours ago, Toca said:

I tried the lights right after i connected the new battery. No Go.  Then once i got the flasher working i tried it with the key/ign. In FART and NO GO. I was wondering when I would get a visit from Ray.  For the last year before i decided to break this car and put it back together, I would snoop around the FAQ and i always laughed my head when I read your entries.  Your either British or a Brilliant Know-it-All because your dry/sarcastic/stoic responses crack me the f*&#@ UP!!!!!!  

 

Cheers,

TocaChakra

 

Thanks. I think you misspelled miscreant ;-)

 

No, I'm from NY.

 

Cheers, and check your high beam switch.

 

;-)

[02Les]

2 hours ago, Toca said:

(why do people call these internal combustion units “MOTORS”)

 

 

 

Definition of motor  ?

 

1 : one that imparts motion specifically : prime mover

2 : any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion: such as

a : a small compact engine

b : internal combustion engine especially : a gasoline engine

c : a rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy

3 : motor vehicle especially : automobile

[PaulTWinterton]

4 hours ago, Toca said:

take-apart-able?

Absolutely! Tiny nut on the bottom.  Slide off baffle cylinder.  I don't have pix on my phone but search topics for sending unit etc.  Good pictures of the guts and testing.

 

If that Butyl tape is at all goopy I'd pass.  Nitrile rubber gasket is the cleanest IMHO.

Edited December 22, 2019 by PaulTWinterton