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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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I used 3M weatherstripping and Gasket adhesive. I also used some degreaser solvent to clean the rubber prior to gluing. Sadly I did get a little separation on the doors where the gluing starts above the latch that I will need to deal with. 

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Good news: got the '71 registered at the DMV

 

Bad news: more water in the oil. Again!

 

White mayo under the valve cover and the dipstick was a medium opaque grey. No oil in the coolant. Oil was fine before my drive to the DMV. I had the head pressure checked and ground flat by a machine shop when I did the head gasket last month, so this is really frustrating! I guess there’s a crack or corrosion in the water jacket that’s connecting it to an oil return passage, and it wasn’t part of the “pressure testing” done by the shop. Spark plugs look good and there’s no steam in the exhaust. I’m going to pressure test it and see if i can see any bubbles or water seeping up under the valve cover.

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image.pngPicked up an alloy lower column cover in my favorite texture of wrinkle-black. My original unit was plastic, and several of the bosses had been crushed/cracked from brittleness and likely a ham-fisted previous owner. 

 

The extra choke hole gave me an opportunity to install yet another of my favorite things. Toggle Switches!!!

 

Buy ya a candybar if you can guess what it does... :)

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1 hour ago, 2002Scoob said:

image.pngPicked up an alloy lower column cover in my favorite texture of wrinkle-black. My original unit was plastic, and several of the bosses had been crushed/cracked from brittleness and likely a ham-fisted previous owner. 

 

The extra choke hole gave me an opportunity to install yet another of my favorite things. Toggle Switches!!!

 

Buy ya a candybar if you can guess what it does... :)

Initiates Ganterbrau pour?

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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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Ended up cancelling my Ireland Engineering order. After 11 days they called to tell me the header I ordered was out of stock.

If I spend another $120. for ceramic coat they could send send that one. Plus couldn't fill other items on the order.

Never dealt with so much incompetence on a parts order before.  

 

If anyone has a good header to recommend  please let me know.  

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9 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

image.pngPicked up an alloy lower column cover in my favorite texture of wrinkle-black. My original unit was plastic, and several of the bosses had been crushed/cracked from brittleness and likely a ham-fisted previous owner. 

 

The extra choke hole gave me an opportunity to install yet another of my favorite things. Toggle Switches!!!

 

Buy ya a candybar if you can guess what it does... :)

I’m guessing there are connections to “lasers” somewhere in the circuit...

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22 hours ago, cdbeemin said:

I used 3M weatherstripping and Gasket adhesive. I also used some degreaser solvent to clean the rubber prior to gluing. Sadly I did get a little separation on the doors where the gluing starts above the latch that I will need to deal with. 

The glue pulled away from the rubber. Guess I need to pull it, clean the door jam and scratch the rubber up before reapplying. The adhesive stuck to the paint just fine... and it was just the b-pillar. The a-pillar portion is on nice and tight for now.

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11 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

image.pngPicked up an alloy lower column cover in my favorite texture of wrinkle-black. My original unit was plastic, and several of the bosses had been crushed/cracked from brittleness and likely a ham-fisted previous owner. 

 

The extra choke hole gave me an opportunity to install yet another of my favorite things. Toggle Switches!!!

 

Buy ya a candybar if you can guess what it does... :)

My first guess is nitrous oxide!!!

My second guess is the James Bond smoke screen.

My third guess is electric fan switch.

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8 hours ago, cdbeemin said:

The glue pulled away from the rubber. Guess I need to pull it, clean the door jam and scratch the rubber up before reapplying. The adhesive stuck to the paint just fine... and it was just the b-pillar. The a-pillar portion is on nice and tight for now.

 

I didn't "scuff" the rubber, per se.  I cleaned all the white powdery stuff (mold release agent) off with brake cleaner, cleaned the metal with the 3M cleaner / prep / whatever it is, glue on both sides, wait a minute / however long, then stick them together and clamp with big-ass binder clips.  I only glued a small section at a time so I could make sure it lined up right.

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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