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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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25 minutes ago, doog said:

Looks good. What material did you use?

 

It's 3mm PVC sign-board material. Cuts well with a Utility knife, is moisture proof and far more stable than the cardboard cards. 

 

I used punches for allot of the holes on the first card before I remembered I had a set of step-drills, which work quite well and are far more neighbor friendly, even if they make a far bigger mess of my studio :) haha. 

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Drove up to Tampa to visit Xavier 296 yesterday and shake Zouave down.  About an hour and fifteen minutes each way.  Loved the run, but had too much thrum and vibration coming from the drivetrain after the 5-speed swap.  Today, relaxed the shift tower setting to give the tranny more flex, but had too much noise coming through the shifter hole.  Probably because I crushed the foam donut and now there were gaps.  Pulled the shift knob (don’t hit yerself in the face!), pulled the Z1 lever, lowered the shift tower, wedged in another donut, replaced lever and knob, cranked the tower back up a bit, and voila! All the cruddy noises gone. Had no idea that it would make such a difference.  Now if I can get rid of a little (what sounds like) exhaust rattle on deceleration Zouave will be souave.

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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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This morning I bought some oil, came home and did a filter and oil change. Log book shows I last did it 4175 miles ago Sept 12, 2020.  When I was cleaning up, I realized I didn't buy the oil weight I had intended when I walked into the store. I bought 20W50 Castrol even though I wanted to get 10W30 for the summer.  Oh well, I'm an idiot. I'll probably go get the lighter weight oil and try again tomorrow. I can put that oil in my VW at the next oil change.

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30 minutes ago, 7502 said:

This morning I bought some oil, came home and did a filter and oil change. Log book shows I last did it 4175 miles ago Sept 12, 2020.  When I was cleaning up, I realized I didn't buy the oil weight I had intended when I walked into the store. I bought 20W50 Castrol even though I wanted to get 10W30 for the summer.  Oh well, I'm an idiot. I'll probably go get the lighter weight oil and try again tomorrow. I can put that oil in my VW at the next oil change.

Why lighter weight for the summer? I would think you'd want it the other way 'round. 

 

-Dave 

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Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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23 minutes ago, 7502 said:

I bought 20W50 Castrol even though I wanted to get 10W30 for the summer. 

Yeah, Eric.  What Dave said.  :) 

Wouldn't you wanna run the thicker oil in the summer and thinner in the winnter?

I understand that the W number is lower on the 30 wt oil, but that just applies to pre-warm-up minutes, right?


I have run nothing but 20W50 in my 2002.

My old VWs all got 30wt. oil.

My old Subaru gets 40 wt. oil.

 

I use Peanut oil in my wok.

A little Sesame oil too, sometimes.

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1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Yeah, Eric.  What Dave said.  :) 

Wouldn't you wanna run the thicker oil in the summer and thinner in the winnter?

I understand that the W number is lower on the 30 wt oil, but that just applies to pre-warm-up minutes, right?


I have run nothing but 20W50 in my 2002.

My old VWs all got 30wt. oil.

My old Subaru gets 40 wt. oil.

 

I use Peanut oil in my wok.

A little Sesame oil too, sometimes.

 

OK, I think I'm back to reality.  I'll just keep the fresh 20W50 in there, been a tough week. The old winter oil was Mobil 1 20W50, first time I ever used synthetic oil. I added some Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase a couple days before draining the oil and it came out pretty dark. Cut open the filer to have a look.

 

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On 5/29/2021 at 1:20 PM, ray_ said:

I don't believe that. I think you need a more accurate measuring instrument.

 

You must be referring to my AFR gauge... surely you're not questioning the accuracy of the INNOVA 5568!

 

22 hours ago, xr4tic said:
On 5/29/2021 at 3:02 PM, John76 said:

Tom,

Does fiddling with the timing have an effect on the AFR readings?

Just curious....if anyone would know, it would be you!!

 

Absolutely, especially at idle.  If the spark is retarded, the mixture won't fully ignite leading to a rich condition.

 

I don't doubt that.  I've never seen it happen though.  I have the AFR gauge in a pivoting single pod and have turned it to face the windshield while working under the hood; so I suppose I could try rotating (retarding) the distributor until I see the gauge drop and then see how little advance I have at idle; but it's going to run crappy there (obviously).  Too little advance also leads to a hot head/exhaust, so I have read.

 

I have nine degrees of advance at idle now.  It ran okay with as little as six, but that was as low as it could go and still run okay-ish. 

 

I have a vacuum advance distributor (connected to the ported source) and a vacuum gauge in the console showing the vacuum to the pod, with an emissions vacuum-switch connected that I can turn off and on from the driver's seat.  I've tried flipping that switch to turn the vacuum off while it is giving a full 12 degrees of advance (light throttle cruise) and have never seen that affect the AFR reading.  I was hoping I could assess my timing that way, as in, "it ran a little leaner with the pod adding advance and when I turned it off, the AFR dropped; so it must be burning more efficiently with the added advance."

 

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I suspect Ray's right.  The AFR needle is constantly moving and the changes in timing that I'm making are not making enough difference to detect by watching the gauge.  

 


Tom

 

 

   

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My son Kane came out yesterday in his 2002, Ed Zinsmeyer installed / showed him the finer points of installing a new 123 distributor...Greg Resa showed up and a good time was had by all...

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Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

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Had a little bit of rare free time and decided to tidy up the proto throttle cable situation. I welded a cross brace onto the lower support bracket and painted it black… much stiffer!

 

I also 3d printed a prototype cable end mount where the cable attaches to the throttle body. The final one will be in a tougher and black material. The black thing on the throttle cable snaps into the plastic mount to prevent the metal ball from backing out, but all the force is pulled on the backside of the mount.

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'74 Verona

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Recently ordered the Z1 tulip shift lever knob with no emblem, hoping to find a Roundel emblem to fit in it.  Those are NLA.  None on ebay.  None through the usual suspects.  Finally, found what I was looking for (with matching keychain —- total of about $10!), and it went in today.

B22D82AA-B6BA-4600-B0F4-A1960E7D3496.jpegNow, if anybody has a line on one of thos window stickers with the West Germany flag colors that says “Ich bin nicht Mitglied der Baader-Meinhoff Gruppe”, Zouave will be fully tchotchked.

Edited by 0257
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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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Got a new friend for my 76 from forum member Danco. Time to learn about Tiis and hopefully less about welding than the 76 required from me!

 

I remember when I started all this 5 years ago someone saying that most people who get one end up having a few...”nahhhhh” I thought. ?

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FINALLY got it out of winter storage. Between random late-spring snows and a busy schedule, it just hadn't happened yet.

 

But even with the battery simply disconnected for six months (no trickle charger), the car fired right up. The electric pump I installed last year was really nice for filling the float chamber without excessive cranking. 

 

Even with the late eclosion, I'm hoping to drive the thing more than the 500 miles it went in 2020! 

 

Obligatory "back home" photo below. 

 

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-Dave 

Edited by dlhoovler
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Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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