What did you do to your 2002 today !

[jmr_1602]

Getting closer to finishing rust repairs. I’ve replaced the rockers and patched some small areas on drivers side floor board. Last big hurdle was the nose on this 67. 
 

Soon I’ll be elbows deep in dust and sandpaper. 
 

['76mintgrün'02]

Thank you, Doog.  I suspect you may be onto something. 
 

As I understand it, the alternator gets harder to turn as more juice is squeezed from it and when I tried turning on the headlights the rpm at which the L light started to glow appeared to be higher, not lower. 

 

The alternator also makes more juice the faster it spins, which is why the L light symptom was confusing to me.

 

Maybe the voltage regulator cannot handle the higher output and shuts--down and turning the lights on uses--up some of that output, delaying the light coming on.

 

A month or two ago, I noticed black powder on the underside of the white hood of my old Subaru and it was from the belt; so I tightened it.  There was no powdery residue from this belt, so if it was slipping, at least it wasn't eating the belt.  It was pretty easy to spin the fan under the belt though.  I am careful not to put more tension on that belt than it needs, so it goes easy on the water pump bearings, but that means I have to pay close(r) attention to it.

 

Yay, I get to work on my car today!  Thankfully, I have a spare (used) regulator I can swap in, if need be.

 

I will try putting my INNOVA 5568 timing light in Voltage-Mode and see what it says when I rev the engine.

 

If the regulator proves to be the problem, I will remove the cover on mine and share some photos of the pretty bits inside, so we can figure out how to FIX it.  

 

I'll bet Mike's written an article about that.  If so, it should be included in his new book!   

Tom

[Son of Marty]

Also check your fan belt v shape 9.5x8.75 most online places sell the more common 9.0x875 belt which pulls to far into the pully v and can hit the bottom  when it bottoms you can put any reasonable tension on the belt it's still going to slip.

[Mario Falfan]

Replacing the drivers side door due to cancer. The door was purchased from Maximilian Imports. Saul was very helpful and made it very simple.

 

 

[FunElan]

Put some new points in to help solve some random part throttle stumbling. Seems to have fixed the issue for now....but I decided to peek at what jets my 32/36 was running. It was fully rebuilt a long time ago, but recently I changed all of the o-rings and rubber stuff, and reset the float level. The car runs pretty dang well, but gets 20 mpg and the tailpipe is covered in black soot. So I think it might be jetted a little rich (mixture screw is 1.25 turns out from full lean). Secondary enrichment port is plugged.

 

Here's what's currently in there:

 

idle: 65/50

air correctors: 170/165

main: 150/155

emulsion tubes: f50/f55

(primary/secondary)

 

I've done the searching, and it seems like I should just do CDiesel's prescription, but I'm scared of touching it and making it run worse. Carbs are still like black magic to me - the fact that they even work is a miracle. Any thoughts? I would also make this a new thread but I feel this topic has been discussed ad nauseam.

['76mintgrün'02]

7 hours ago, FunElan said:

Here's what's currently in there:

 

idle: 65/50

air correctors: 170/165

main: 150/155

emulsion tubes: f50/f55

(primary/secondary)

 

I've done the searching, and it seems like I should just do CDiesel's prescription, but I'm scared of touching it and making it run worse. Carbs are still like black magic to me - the fact that they even work is a miracle. Any thoughts?

 

I've never heard of anyone using two different emulsion tubes.  How exotic!

 

So, I just did a google image search to get a visual comparison of f50/f55 tubes and saw an image that looked familiar.  It turns out I took the photo... no wonder.  I clicked on the link, which took me to the FAQ thread in which I had been experimenting with mixed emulsion tubes.    

 

I'm not sure whether you'd come across that thread in your reading, but I sure did a lot of typing in it, so I'll try to keep this post brief and steer you towards that one.  I enjoyed reading it again, since I'd forgotten about half of it.  It makes me want to take my carb apart again.

 

 

 

As you mentioned, there are a ton of threads on the topic.  Maybe you could add to that one, if you dig into yours.  I say go for it!  You can always put it back the way it is now, if you don't like the changes. 

 

Adding an AFR gauge took a lot of the mystery out of the jetting process.  Your sooty tailpipe could also be due to burning a little oil.  I suspect that's why mine turns black.  It makes me happy wiping that rolled-stainless tailpipe-tip back to shiny.   

 

Tom

['76mintgrün'02]

On 6/5/2021 at 4:46 PM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

While driving today, I noticed that the L light started glowing once I got up around 3500 rpm and then would go out as rpms dropped again.

 

While driving yesterday, I noticed that the L light starts glowing once I got up around 2800 rpm, so it appears to be getting worse.    I tightened the belt and tried a spare used voltage regulator and neither made any difference.  I did notice some differences in what's under the cap on the two regulators I have and they have different part numbers too, fwiw.  The one on the right is what was installed.

 

the part number of the one on the left, followed by the one on the right.

 

 

The little contact points looked a little crusty, so I cleaned them up a little, hoping that would fix it, but no.

 

I thought the second voltage regulator fixed the problem at first, so I cleaned up the cap on my original and installed it over the guts of the "new" one, but the symptom persists. 

 

I was happy to find this old roll of yellow tape up in the shop.  It is a very good match, color wise.

 

The volt meter drops from 14 to 12.8 (battery voltage) as soon as the L light comes on.  So, now I have a prettier voltage regulator, but get to look at the alternator next, I guess.  (after carefully inspecting the wiring between them, thanks, Ray).

 

 

One of my neighbors offered to help.

 

Another one came over to supervise.   

I do have a used alternator I can try, but I'll take it up to the (crappy) NAPA store and let them test it first.  It isn't nearly as pretty as the one on the engine now.  I wonder how hard it'd be to swap the guts.

Tom

[Buckeye]

@'76mintgrün'02 have you tried following simple test yet?

 

[jimk]

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

One of my neighbors offered to help.

Chicks are attracted to these cars.

[FunElan]

2 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

I've never heard of anyone using two different emulsion tubes.  How exotic!

 

So, I just did a google image search to get a visual comparison of f50/f55 tubes and saw an image that looked familiar.  It turns out I took the photo... no wonder.  I clicked on the link, which took me to the FAQ thread in which I had been experimenting with mixed emulsion tubes.    

 

I'm not sure whether you'd come across that thread in your reading, but I sure did a lot of typing in it, so I'll try to keep this post brief and steer you towards that one.  I enjoyed reading it again, since I'd forgotten about half of it.  It makes me want to take my carb apart again.

 

 

 

As you mentioned, there are a ton of threads on the topic.  Maybe you could add to that one, if you dig into yours.  I say go for it!  You can always put it back the way it is now, if you don't like the changes. 

 

Adding an AFR gauge took a lot of the mystery out of the jetting process.  Your sooty tailpipe could also be due to burning a little oil.  I suspect that's why mine turns black.  It makes me happy wiping that rolled-stainless tailpipe-tip back to shiny.   

 

Tom

 

 

I do burn some oil...I guess that could be it. I've thought about doing headers and an AFR at the same time, but get discouraged whenever I drive the car and it cruises so well! I'll pore over that thread. Maybe the emulsion tube difference is bad....I'll find out shortly. Thanks!

['76mintgrün'02]

4 hours ago, FunElan said:

Maybe the emulsion tube difference is bad....

 

 

I glanced at e-tube info and I think they get richer as the numbers go up, so f55 is slightly richer than f50, which is not necessarily bad but needs jetting to play nicely with it. (EDIT not true about E-tube numbers rich/lean--sorry-- see JP's post that follows)

 

I'd stick a bung in your existing downpipe and skip the header all togeader.  You can always get a header lader.  I'd also get'a gauge that's got'a needle, but flashing numbers can be fun too.

 

 

I raised my idle rpm from 750 to 800 yesterday and then backed out the mixture screw to bring the AFR back down to 12+.  I lubed all the carb linkage too.  The clutch slave push rod connection had red dusty rusty powder, so I dripped oil on it.  The pedal is so much smoooooother now.  The creaky clickety action is fixt.  The master is still a dripper though.  Not enough to leave a puddle, but the brake light flashed a couple times on a hill yesterday.

 

 It seemed to run/drive better-than-ever after those piddly improvements.  Now I just need to improve the charging situation.

 

6 hours ago, Buckeye said:

have you tried following simple test yet?

 

I just tried the wire-test and the L light goes out immmediately.  The instructions say to try that test when the L light remains on permanently (while the engine is running).  That's not the case with my car (yet).  Another friend said his car did the same thing and new brushes in the alternator fixed it.

Tom

Edited June 8, 2021 by '76mintgrün'02

[jp5Touring]

 

I read somewhere that emulsion tube numbers are from the order they were produced/manufactured. 

Crazy  I know.    Not if their a rich or lean tube.  

[Son of Marty]

Jp, I know that's true of the e-tubes for dcoe's, but for other Webers I don.t know if or if not that holds true but would like to know. One thing I do know about Weber carbs is consistency is not their strong point. 

Edited June 8, 2021 by Son of Marty

[Buckeye]

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I just tried the wire-test and the L light goes out immmediately.  The instructions say to try that test when the L light remains on permanently (while the engine is running).  That's not the case with my car (yet).  Another friend said his car did the same thing and new brushes in the alternator fixed it.

 

Every one of the alternator I split open has had two issues; 1). carbon brushes are worn out, 2). slip ring below minimum OD of 31.5mm

[jp5Touring]

52 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Jp, I know that's true of the e-tubes for dcoe's, but for other Webers I don.t know if or if not that holds true but would like to know. One thing I do know about Weber carbs is consistency is not their strong point. 

 

Dooh,  my comprehension is bad.  I have DCOE's so doesn't  everyone ? ☹️   Was not thinking 32/36 which I know nothing.