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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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14 hours ago, Scottjeffrey said:

Very nice. Almost there myself. Where did you get the carpet? What are the black mats you have down?

Enjoy!

Scott

That is mass loaded vinyl I learned about somewhere on this forum. Pretty excited about it. I used dynamat sparingly and then laid these down. Very heavy and easy to work with...carpet is Esty of course! 

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I finished up rewiring a bunch of stuff over the last week… one hour at a time in between baby duty. Was able to finish up and start the car for the first time in many months. Runs great! 

 

Then I attempted to put the rear windshield in myself… I am 80% of the way there by some small miracle but really need to get a helping hand to push on the bottom while i yank the last of the seal through! Tbh kinda amazed at how far i have gotten on it with no help.

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'74 Verona

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5 hours ago, flagoworld said:

I am 80% of the way there by some small miracle but really need to get a helping hand to push on the bottom while i yank the last of the seal through!

 

I enjoyed helping with the front one and would be happy to come over and do it again, or you can drive it over here, if you prefer.

 

 

I worked on my car today.  I noticed that the press-in bolts from a strut mount fit into the holes on the exhaust heat shield, so I hammered a couple in and reinstalled it.  Finally.

 

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As for the alternator issue I was having earlier in the week (cutting out over 3k rpm, with the L light coming on), I decided to take my spare up to NAPA and have it tested.  I learned that their tester only works on NAPA alternators.  Bozos.

 

They recommended that I take it to Blanchard Electric in Bremerton, but I figured I could install it and test it in the car, faster than I could make that 1-1/2 hour round trip, so that's what I did.  While I was removing the original, I noticed a loose crimp connector on the head end of the ground wire, so I fixed that and continued with the installation.  The replacement alternator appeared to work, but I couldn't help wondering if the ground wire was the problem all along, so I put the original back in.  Unfortunately, the L light came on at about 3500 rpm on my test drive.

 

So, yesterday I swapped the spare back in and then took the original to Blanchard to have it tested (for ten bux) and he said it worked just fine, putting out over fifty amps.  I asked how fast his machine spun, since it only cuts out at higher rpms, but he did not know.  He ordered new brushes, bearings and a diode trio for a total of $20 and I'll install those bits when they come in and try it again.  Hopefully that will put it back in service.

 

I got a lot of practice swapping alternators and finally figured out an easy way to put tension on the belt.  I shared this in Mike's thread already, but I'll share it again here, since it made me so happy.

 

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Tom

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With much apprehension after reading the horror stories here, I tackled the removal of the slave cylinder. Took all of 20 minutes. The last guy who put it in - date unknown - graciously put anti-seize on it. Once the clips were off, it slid right out.

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47 minutes ago, PapaG said:

With much apprehension after reading the horror stories here, I tackled the removal of the slave cylinder. Took all of 20 minutes. The last guy who put it in - date unknown - graciously put anti-seize on it. Once the clips were off, it slid right out.

 

How convenient. I had to switch between beating and heat for almost an hour before mine broke free! Didn’t want to beat too hard ?

'74 Verona

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!!! I picked up some suction cups and decided to see if I could pull from the inside to get it the rest of the way, and BOOM!! Did it!!! All alone. My savior was this little plastic pick that I could work under the rubber and help pull it around the metal lip. The paracord got it most of the way, but the plastic pick let me go back and fix any mistakes as I pulled it it through. Alternated between pushing and working the window into place from outside and pulling with the suction cups on inside while using the pick and rope to pull rubber through. 

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'74 Verona

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spent some time preparing this engine to come off the stand (it's less greasy now).

 

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additional time well-spent preparing this one to go up on the stand.

 

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It'll go into the Polaris '73, along with twin 40s 

Previously it had seen time in this '71, from which I pulled it earlier this week.

 

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Edited by ScottA
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machinist - A&P - UAV inspector.

'71 1600 parts car, '71 Nevada tii tribute, '73 Polaris automatic in assembly awaiting 5-speed, 3.90 LS and dual 40s

'61 R27 - '74 R90S - '83 R100RS

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My favorite girl is headed towards Rotterdam…drove my inka Tii today to a  neighborhood car show/cars and coffee, rekindled our affair…C8CFBF49-FF5F-4C19-A2D2-0EABC544CA0B.jpeg3B802F34-6AEB-425C-9E00-A7B554302B36.jpeg

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Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

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Rebuilt the shifter with all new parts and a couple of missing parts. Was missing spring and proper washer.

I also tried to replace the selector rod joint. I had a new one and could not get the pin to seat.

I had read its a pia but my skinny hands could fit up there no problem.  I deburred it, polished the pin and still no luck

It would go in all but a couple millimeters. I had my Son give it a go with no luck. 

I drilled it out to see if that helped but still no luck. 

Ended up the pin/dowel hole was off center by almost a millimeter. WTF,,

I pressed  out the bushing and small foam piece and installed them in the old selector rod joint.

The transmission now shifts great and appears to work as it should.

Maybe this winter I'll install a new selector rod joint because no idea how long this one will last.

 

I think I have six to eight hours over three days messing with it.

Beer is now being consumed.  On to the next project. 

 

 

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Went for an hour spin and been having a small clunk in the right front. Nothing appeared that it was about to fall off,

so continued the drive.  When home checked the right front and all tight so was going to pull caliper to get a better look at things.  Started with the caliper brake pad pins. They were corroded and pretty dirty.

So stuck them in my cordless drill and hit them with scotchbrite and steel wool. Cleaned up where the pads sit in the caliper.

Back together fifteen minute drive and no more clunk so I did the driver side also.

Braking was fine before but I think a pad was hanging up a bit.

 

before and after 

 

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