What did you do to your 2002 today !

[ricsix]

After work it was out to the driveway to get a little progress in on Frank. Crude as all heck, but positive  progress. 

 

Edited June 17, 2022 by ricsix

[BeMyWay]

3 hours ago, ricsix said:

After work it was out to the driveway to get a little progress in on Frank. Crude as all heck, but positive  progress. 

 

 

Inspiration to some!

 

Look forward to seeing it completed.

[M3This]

The guys at Ronin started on the roll bar ??

 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

I love my AFR gauge.  It's teaching me how to drive.

 

I've been climbing the same hill on my way into work lately and it's made for a fun test run.  In third gear at 3k rpm it climbs at around 13.5 on the gauge.  As I add more pedal, it eventually starts dropping richer, so I taper back off.  That happens well before the secondary barrel kicks in.

 

I'm content with the carb's jetting, based on the AFR readings, but reading the plugs said it's a little bit lean.  It also showed signs of pre-ignition. ((!))  (thanks for the diagnostix Toby) 

 

The timing was set to 39 degrees all-in, leaving 14 at idle, so I rotated the distributor to give 37/12 and adjusted the idle mixture screw to the smoothest setting, around 12.25 AFR. 

 

(My distributor puts out 25 degrees of advance, so setting the timing light to 12 (now) shows the OT line at idle and the BB at all-in.  That's a fun little coincidence).

 

I had the c.d. prescription installed, along with a .160 air corrector, so I tried switching back to the .145, per the perscription.  That made it climb the hill at 12.75, but it dropped way too rich when accelerating; so I put the .160 back.  I might order a .155... but the gauge says I should be happy as is.

 

I decided to splurge yesterday and bought new NGK BPR5ES pugs to get a better read on the mixture.  The crud on my old ones (BP5ES) made it hard to tell which deposits were new.  I removed the 5K stock rotor and put the (e21) 1K (wide tipped) rotor back in, so there's 1K more resistance than stock now (rotor + resistor plugs).  Oh well.  Maybe my plugs will last longer. 

 

 

These rotors are 1/8" shorter, to clear the points, which sit higher, due to the adjuster. 

 

 

I also moved the 32-36 secondary adjuster back to .060" (.030 gap + .030 tab) and think that's the sweet spot.  

 

 

I gave the sway bar end links a little twist, exposing a few new threads.  They're ten years old now, but still look fine.

 

 

(notice the torn tie rod boot in the background... it's on the list).

 

I'm looking forward to today's test drive.

 

Tom

[7502]

Since Tom was playing w/ spark plugs it reminded me I wanted to check mine and reduce the gap a bit.

Right off the bat I discovered a broken spark plug lead on no 1. Don't think that's ever happened to me before. Hope I can find a good used one. But for now I'll keep using it short turn.

 

Old gaps were 0.035" today I reduced to to 0.030" I run a switched 123 distributor and I think they recommend slightly larger gaps?

 

This morning I rescued my old valve cover from the scrap pile and took it to work and cleaned it up in a media blasting cabinet. Should have worn a mask and that cabinet leaves a lot to be desired, can barely see through the window and it's super low on media but I think it turned out pretty good. I applied some Penetrol to dress it up a bit. Unfortunately this cover has a tiny stress crack around the stud hole near the roundel allowing a small leak over time.

 

I plan on asking someone at work and see if they can repair it.  Hope they can seal it up from the inside.

 

Car runs great after the spark plug work.  Idles at 12.7 AFR smells a bit rich maybe I'll play with it tomorrow and see if I can lean it out a little down at idle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2022 by 7502
spaces

[manimal]

Cut my car in half with a computer



edit, wow I need to update my sig...

 

Edited June 18, 2022 by manimal

[ray_]

You can replace just that plug cable bakelite piece, ya know...

 

... if you have one...

 

Cheers,

[7502]

4 minutes ago, ray_ said:

You can replace just that plug cable bakelite piece, ya know...

As Johnny Carson would say " I did not know that" .

Thanks for the tip,  I'll see what I can scrounge up.

['76mintgrün'02]

21 minutes ago, 7502 said:

I'll see what I can scrounge up.

 

Those look like Kingsborne wires.  If so, I'll bet they would sell you a matching 'plug socket'.

 

I took my wires off today and wiped them down with Meguiar's #40 rubber juice.  I cleaned the valve cover too, but just used WD-40 on a rag.

 

ZUNDFOLGE!  (They put the numbers on the wires upside down).

 

 

 

1 hour ago, 7502 said:

Old gaps were 0.035" today I reduced to to 0.030" I run a switched 123 distributor and I think they recommend slightly larger gaps?

 

I thought plug gap was determined by coil output, no?  (Mine are set to .024"). 

 

 

Now I am working on cleaning the carpet, thanks to a leaking jar of coffee I laid down beside the E-brake handle.  The creamed'n'sugared cawfee ran under the passenger's seat and into the rear footwell.  The seat is out  now, along with the door sill/pinch welt/seat belts and the carpet is rolled up over the hump.  I'd like to figure out how to clean it in place and avoid removing the driver's seat and console.  It's stinky and sticky, so I am glad I'm doing it while it is still wet and before it turned sour;  but there are other things I'd rather be doing.

 

Tom

[BarneyT]

Many thanks to Greg Resa for stopping by today and helping me install the pedal box…fuel line/horns/break lines installed…

[paulyg]

Car is running for the first time in a month! Finished the heater box reconditioning yesterday. New carb also arrived yesterday, jetted it today and it started right up- first try. Engine is now scarily quiet at idle. Happy to say that the most frustrating part of today was finding the hole in the tunnel for the screw that holds the console in place.

[its55]

“finding the hole in the tunnel for the screw that holds the console in place.” ? i need to find it also

[Fortlauderdalian]

16 hours ago, paulyg said:

Car is running for the first time in a month! Finished the heater box reconditioning yesterday. New carb also arrived yesterday, jetted it today and it started right up- first try. Engine is now scarily quiet at idle. Happy to say that the most frustrating part of today was finding the hole in the tunnel for the screw that holds the console in place.

 

17 hours ago, BarneyT said:

Many thanks to Greg Resa for stopping by today and helping me install the pedal box…fuel line/horns/break lines installed…

What is the interior floor coated with?

[kbmb02]

18 hours ago, BarneyT said:

Many thanks to Greg Resa for stopping by today and helping me install the pedal box…fuel line/horns/break lines installed…

 

 

 

Looks great - we’re building in parallel, Barney (though, you will pull ahead quickly).

 

A question/note: From which direction is the pedal pivot bolt installed? In my experience, the bolt head should be inward, with the nut outboard (it *looks like* it’s the other direction in this photo).

 

Why, you might ask? Because installed as I describe, the bolt can slide out (through the removed round, rubber grommet), in the event you / a future owner needs to change a pedal box bushing or clutch return spring. As it (appears to be) configured now, the entire pedal box would need to dropped and/or removed to make those simple repairs. -KB

 

[BarneyT]

With a little help from my friends our 72 Ceylon tii goes together one piece at a time ….Ed Zinsmeyer and Craig stopped by the shop after cars and coffee this morning and helped install the front subframe…