What did you do to your 2002 today !

[slowbert]

I agree that the wire is a bit fat, and I probably could have gone with 4 gauge or even smaller. I was worried about voltage drop over the 20 feet of wire. 
 

I debated about whether to add the negative wire or to run the grounds through the frame. The cable is heavy. I’m planning on running all (or many) of the engine bay grounds to the bus bar. Since the battery is now in the trunk, this setup better mimics the original configuration. 
 

Every thread on this forum that deals with electrical issues comes down to bad ground connections, so I’m overkilling it. 
 

The problem with this design is I’ll never know if it was just barely enough or way, way overkill. 
 

But at least my wiring looks pretty. 

[Son of Marty]

A home run wiring, where the ground goes to a copper wire direct to the battery, is the gold standard of wiring. Copper is a much belter conductor than steel. 

[BarneyT]

1 hour ago, slowbert said:

I agree that the wire is a bit fat, and I probably could have gone with 4 gauge or even smaller. I was worried about voltage drop over the 20 feet of wire. 
 

I debated about whether to add the negative wire or to run the grounds through the frame. The cable is heavy. I’m planning on running all (or many) of the engine bay grounds to the bus bar. Since the battery is now in the trunk, this setup better mimics the original configuration. 
 

Every thread on this forum that deals with electrical issues comes down to bad ground connections, so I’m overkilling it. 
 

The problem with this design is I’ll never know if it was just barely enough or way, way overkill. 
 

But at least my wiring looks pretty. 

I like what you are doing here, wanted to add one thing…from you earlier post/picture below the ground bar is a friction screw connection that should have ground wire to block and be tied back to your ground bar per attached picture, best of luck Barney 

[Howardpowered]

5 hours ago, slowbert said:

I agree that the wire is a bit fat, and I probably could have gone with 4 gauge or even smaller. I was worried about voltage drop over the 20 feet of wire. 
 

I debated about whether to add the negative wire or to run the grounds through the frame. The cable is heavy. I’m planning on running all (or many) of the engine bay grounds to the bus bar. Since the battery is now in the trunk, this setup better mimics the original configuration. 
 

Every thread on this forum that deals with electrical issues comes down to bad ground connections, so I’m overkilling it. 
 

The problem with this design is I’ll never know if it was just barely enough or way, way overkill. 
 

But at least my wiring looks pretty. 

 

most implementations ive seen ran 1/0, so your copper is not too fat. you are right to worry about IR drop, it is there over that length. neg. cable should be same gauge as pos.

 

ground cables are not typically done because although copper has higher conductivity than steel, the body is a much fatter pipe than 0 gauge cable.  i think 2 gauge will be measurably more resistive than body. to find out, a voltage measurement between cable ground terminus and batt neg pole could be done first with cable ground return and then with a good chassis ground instead, each time voltage measured under a same load. load could be starter for most dramatic effect but id try headlights first to see if that is enough to witness some stable mV delta resulting from choice of ground path. 

[jimk]

I'll toss in here that the only time the system draws really high amps is during cranking.  If these cars are not expected to crank the engine at -10F anymore then the "big" cables are overkill.

@slowbert allow room to attach the engine to ground point strap, it's the biggy amp wise.

[Howardpowered]

havent finished the job, but pg 666 of the thread seems as good of a place as any to note the ridley scott alien abomination i found below …now off to source some buckets and rings, dang it.

 

[Mario Falfan]

Am having an issue with my 5 speed conversion. So I had the transmission dropped and hopefully it's an easy issue. If not we will go back to the 4 speed transmission. Wish me luck!

[Daily02]

Replaced center link, inner tie rod ends, and adjusted steering box. This made a big difference.

Replaced points and cleaned distributor contacts. 

Characterized vacuum retard function, and set ignition timing. Motor is running much better. Points were pitted and barely opening.

Adjusted 32/36 Weber to the Pierce Manifolds procedure. Then mixture to "best" idle.

 

[Mario Falfan]

I got the news yesterday, broken shifter tab. So we will rebuild or start from scratch on that tab and maybe by next week Gretchen will be back on the Houston streets. Happy Thanksgiving to all of you!

[Berk Ergin]

HI GUYS HOPE YOU RE WELL AND SOUND HEALTH 

I share the measurent who wants to replicate it their car. 
You can reach me on instagram feel free to ask anything     instagram : 02.co.uk
Please Share the Result Keep Your Passion to  Your Project Car !!!!!
Enjoy.

Edited November 25, 2022 by Berk Ergin

[SydneyTii]

The Cavan in our cars known as the trunk!

 

Edited November 25, 2022 by SydneyTii

[Pablo M]

New stock sway bar urethane end links installed. 

[bluehills2002]

20 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

The Cavan in our cars known as the trunk!

 

Agreed!  I drove my ‘74 to Saturday morning hockey and then picked up the Christmas wreaths.  Best trunk I’ve ever had.  We have had a good extended driving season in New England.  Tom

[SydneyTii]

Love the BWA’s!

[pitchrollyaw]

Front sway bar links, transmission and diffy oil (Redline), rear brakes rebuild, bleed....and located period correct, working Blaupunkt!